Cumbria > Goat Crags, Borrowdale >
 
Bitter Oasis*** E4 5c

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[DPaul on Bitter Oasis 2nd pitch,s.brown belaying  , 3 kb]Was E3, but is now missing a peg, making this a true heart stopper.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain.

Photo: DPaul on Bitter Oasis 2nd pitch,s.brown belaying © DPaul
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 85 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13

Tim led P1 - hard, steep moves from the outset and sustained throughout, plus a bit run out at the bottom. Solid E3 5c and on the whole harder than P2. I had opted to lead the run out P2 and almost came to regret it as it looked desperate and completely gearless to start! However after a (long) while standing awkwardly on the small starting foothold I figured out what looked like the right sequence to get to what looked like a half decent hand hold. [Beta alert!] Downclimbed to the belay (exciting!) for a rest and then went for it (even more exciting, very happy to find a jug!). A fairly hard 5c sequence made trickier by the fact that you can't really see the holds you're going for. It would be a nearly factor 2 fall onto the belay if you come off on that sequence - reminiscent of Eroica, except the moves are a bit easier but the run out is longer. E4 5c for sure but I knew that... Eventually got a good cam just before the spike - BD 0.5. Interest was maintained with some more 5b/c sequences but at least there was gear! A great route.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Tim Newton

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with misha nepogodiev

captain - 2013

Hidden - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/12 with Rob Greenwood, Ed Booth

Led first pitch. Good route.
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/12 with Rob Greenwood, Adam Booth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12

ali_robb - 2nd β - 21/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/11

Got a small cam (about zero size) in pocket near where the peg used to be, think a pink tricam would go in even better. Very good route.
Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Rick Graham

Hidden - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Steve Crowe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Dave Parton - 2011

In one big pitch. Top bit is quite bold off the ledge!
JM - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Ashley Clarke

Lord_ash2000 - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with John

cosmicray - 2010

jim robertson - Lead β - 02/Jul/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/08 with Mike Thomas, Neil Chelton

mega route led 1st pitch - we were both relieved to find chalk on the route. and made up for being rained off 4 weeks earlier
sadams - AltLd - 15/Jun/08 with Eric Hildrew

Ram MkiV - AltLd O/S - 12/May/08 with Al

Lead first pitch, brilliant route, sustained route finding difficulties, needs more traffic.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 12/May/08 with Steve Ramsden

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/07

Toby Dunn - 2007

middlevern - 2nd - Jul/06 with Toby Dunn

dominic lee - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/06 with daniel lee

jim robertson - 2006

Bern - 2006

jeffmcd56 - Lead O/S - 2006 with Adam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - AltLd rpt - Jun/03 with Sam Whittaker

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/00

simon cox - 2000

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/98 with Al Willoner

hotrod - 2nd - 13/May/98 with mark

hotrod - 2nd - 13/May/98 with mark

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/95

Cowflinger - AltLd - May/95

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Hidden - Lead - 1995

EagerAndy - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/94

whispering nic - Lead - Jul/94 with Kat

fantastic route
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 17/Apr/94 with Nick Ashton

Hidden - AltLd - 1991

Dave Rumney - Lead - 11/Aug/90

Billg - Lead O/S - Aug/90 with Jon Barton

Hidden - Jul/90

keefe - 1990

Hidden - 1990

andy gittins - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jun/89

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/89

I had reversed from the main pitch back to the belay the previous summer after finding no peg/gear.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - May/89 with The General (P.Henderson)

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead O/S - 1989 with George reah

kalzum - 2nd - 18/Jun/88 with Flew

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/88

John Marsland - 2nd - 04/Jul/87 with Eduardo Martinez

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jun/86

Lone Rider - AltLd - May/86 with John Christie

The top pitch felt bold, even seconding.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 18/May/85 with J. Topping

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 11/May/85 with Perric Crellin

MikeYouCanClimb - Lead O/S - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 1984

Hidden - Lead - 1984

I led P1.
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 18/Jun/83 with Paul Dawson

Ivan Machin - 22/Jun/82

Ivan Machin - 22/Jun/82 with Jon Mellor

Mike Owen - 18/Apr/82 with Phil Ralph

great climb
DPaul - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/81 with s.brown

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/81

Led the 2nd pitch. Excellent climbing
KRB - AltLd O/S - 05/May/80 with Gerry Jewson

redjerry - Lead O/S - May/80 with Roy Williamson

Hardest climb ever
j.brown960@btinternet.com - 2nd - Jul/79

Peg was in, but it looked completely useless.
ian caton - Lead O/S - Aug/78 with steve scott

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jun/77

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ropeboy, Hidden, Hidden, Andrew Wilson, barni, Hidden, Ian Jones, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 54
hard E50 of 17
E50 of 17
easy E50 of 17
hard E40 of 17
E411 of 17
easy E44 of 17
hard E32 of 17
E30 of 17
easy E30 of 17
hard 6a0 of 19
6a0 of 19
easy 6a0 of 19
hard 5c14 of 19
5c5 of 19
easy 5c0 of 19
hard 5b0 of 19
5b0 of 19
easy 5b0 of 19
3 Stars17 of 18
2 Stars1 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

Lead26 of 85 (30.6%)
Followed10 of 85 (11.8%)
Alt Leads24 of 85 (28.2%)
Unknown25 of 85 (29.4%)

'Climbed'49 of 85 (57.6%)
clean O/S32 of 85 (37.6%)
clean β2 of 85 (2.4%)
clean rpt2 of 85 (2.4%)