UKC

25m. Belay at an obvious belay block in the middle of the headwall halfway between pat's right facing corner(left side) and Central gully direct finish(on right). This is at the top of a shallow rib which runs up within central gully to finish steeply below the vertical head wall and below an obvious square cut 8 m wide niche ( the Kist). Use the block and small wires in the wall.
Climb 5 m up the steep wall, boldly pull into the kist. Climb out of the right side (icy corner)with good gear. Move up rightwards following a weakness/fault line just right of a small buttress. Pull up the corner and short wall to finish direct.

Paul Tucker and Pete Blackburn Jan/2012.

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