Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14
Long, strenuous but fantastic route, with everything you could want from an alpine classic.
georgec - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with John Holterman
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/14
newtonmore - 04/Sep/14
Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/14
So very, very long... Fantastic though. Planned bivouac far short of the top of the rock section. Climbed in big boots, a lot of mixed ground near the top of the rock section climbed Scottish style with axes and crampons.
planetmarshall - AltLd - 03/Sep/14 with Christopher Douglas
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Aug/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/14
Over two days
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/14
Little AndyH - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/14
Over a day with perfect conditions.
David Staples - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/14 with Glorious
Hidden - AltLd - 06/Aug/14
Amazing! Rock part went really well, went right (wrongly) at the end though so Rob smashed an E1 chimney/corner crack combo. Hauled my sack so I could do it in style. Solid bivvy ledge, but an overnight downpour resulted in a miserable few hours 'sleep'. Set off an hour earlier than planned (3) in an attempt to warm up - cold conditions meant perfect neve! Sketchy snow ridge led to a final perfect ice pitch. Will climb again.
Edvenables - AltLd O/S - Aug/14 with Robert Taylor
Set off in the afternoon of Sunday 27th, one bivvy near the top of the rock buttress. Route was in great condition, we climbed all the rock in rock shoes. I lead the exposed flake pitch which was amazing, Masa did the 5b crux and a lot of pitches in the dark as the day went on!
The snow arÍte and exit snow slopes were in great condition early morning, pretty stepped out so we were happy moving together and only pitching the 80 degree crux ice pitch.
Mr. K - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/14 with Masa Sakano
Took a cable car at 12:50(!), and started climbing at 3pm (we must have taken a wrong approach). Climbed the old F5b crux pitch in the last light, and climbed on in the dark (new moon) till immediately before the bivvy spot at 00:45 am, miraculously managing the non-trivial route-finding. Took an hour sleep at the sloping bivvy ledge, getting up at 4:30am, setting off the bivvy at 6:15am for the final rock pitch and nicely-frozen snow/ice climb, and topped out at around 9:30am. The best alpine route I have done so far!
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/14 with Kyle
Climbed superb conditions. Pitched where we needed to, route finding was pretty straightforward. Bivied at a ledge(10m ab) 50m before exposed snow saddle. Amazing views and a big wall feel! Climbed the snow and ice in near perfect cons, recommend double cams .75-3 and double nuts as this helped us move well. A well deserved complete mountaineering 3* classic.
ndraper1 - 19/Jul/14 with Joel Evans
Climbed over two days. warm rock on day one and firm snow on day 2. great condition
joelevanschamonix - AltLd - 18/Jul/14 with ndraper1
Hidden - 24/Jun/14
EPIC route, started at lunchtime on the 21st thinking it'd be plain sailing up to the normal bivy ledge......how we were wrong. Large amounts of snow on the route still which had turned into a wet slushy collapsing mess, making going very slow in either rock boots or b3's! it got dark just below the higher rock crux pitch, which ben absolutely cruised, carried on in the dark until 1.30 where we stopped and bivvied on a small ledge/hole, carried on in the morning getting to the normal bivy ledge at 10, brewed up there and pressed on up the snow arete which was in ace condition and flew by, then went left round the rognon on absolutely perfect plasticy ice, took 4 60m rope lengths to finally top out at 14.50 on the 22nd, absolutely stunning route which i definitely underestimated, cracking job by ben pulling us through it!
pete1993 - AltLd β - 22/Jun/14 with Ben
Underestimated the amount/quality of the snow and had to keep changing footwear. I lead a few pitches of scottish IV on mixed ground (slow) then Pete did first actual Crux, then very slow up the snowy spur: it got dark around 300m before our planned bivi ledge. I lead 5 pitches in the dark where we spent a surprisingly comfy few hours in a hole-cum-ledge. Aided a 7m corner (probably E2 at sea level in rock boots) before breakfast then onto the snow which took 4/5 hours with a cheeky brew on our planned bivi ledge. total time: 25 hours, conditions: poor collapsing deep snow, weather: wall to wall sunshine fading to sleet and fog, climbing: every single style. Quality route, will come back in summer connies to do it in a respectable time. Nice effort from Pete powering through extreme tiredness like a boss
benkelsey - AltLd β - 22/Jun/14 with Pete Briggs
mike mo - 2014
Hidden - 2014
Gordon Lacey - AltLd - 05/Sep/13
Scott Rankin - AltLd - 05/Sep/13 with Gordon Lacey
Hidden - AltLd - 02/Sep/13
bivied by the plan d'aiguille, cruising along until my lack of acclimatisation caught up on the ice slopes. fantastic day
simondunf - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/13 with caspar
bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Carla, Danny
Bivvied at the narrow col..spectacular rockfall during the night!
luckyjim - AltLd - 14/Aug/13 with D Helm
Set off in afternoon and bivyed when the cloud came down. Awful night and did not sleep a bit as just down jacket and space blanket which disintegrated after about an hour of me fidgeting. End up sleeping with feet in rucksack hugging each other trying to stay warm and pacing about every hour. Next day straight forward but long. Underestimated the length of the Ice section. 60m ice pitch with two dodgy screws was a bit scary.
adamwesthead - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/13 with Hoult
Epic! Climbed over 2 days as our acclimatisation. Second day under total storm: tropical rain, snow, windy, thunders, lightnings, the whole shebang... aff...
Murilo Lessa - AltLd dog - 06/Aug/13 with Stewart Young
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/13
Bruce S - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Joshua Willett
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/13
robgixer - Lead O/S - Aug/13
mcgovern - AltLd - Aug/13 with Paul Collins
TRFrost - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with N. Price
Over two days, 7hrs rock, 4hrs ice and went left at the top at scottish 3. Bit slow and heavy overall but amazing route and cracking bivi spot.
r_o_b_h2 - AltLd - 15/Jul/13 with Nik Goile
Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jul/13
With Kev. Started climbing at about 19:00 after a long approach! Finished at 8 the next morning with no stops. Interesting climbing through the night and trying not to fall asleep whilst belaying! Climbed all of the rock, up to just below the bivvy in rock shoes, nearly got crushed by a large block I pulled on trying to avoid the snow on the route. Glad I've done it but never again!!
Mike Nolan - AltLd - 07/Jul/13
Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jul/13
Mike Hood - AltLd - 06/Jul/13 with jordan
Ski descent with 200m of rappels.
Ben Briggs - May/13 with Luca
Hidden - 2013
walts4 - 2013
jcw - 2013
James Thacker - 2013
Tony Kartawick - AltLd rpt - 2013 with Nick
Rock took 3 hours. Ice took 4 as it was in very poor and icey condition
Ollie B - 21/Aug/12 with T.Livinstone
Boshed the rock in 3 hours! Ice was shit but managed fine
Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/12 with Ollie Burrows
Did the rock section really quick and were moving slowly on the ice so thought we would use the original finish. Bit of a mistake really ended up doing an a1 pitch, a one legged offwidth, scottish III/IV ice pitch and exciting mixed. When I got down was sick and are still feeling awful really lucky I managed to get the last lift down would have been bad to have spend the night up there.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with james wilson
See below, last lift was a godsend @ 7.30pm
Wils - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Ewan Russell
guy757 - AltLd - 02/Aug/12
davebrox - AltLd β - 10/Jul/12 with rocio
Great route! Started at 3pm, rained on at 7pm on the first day, meaning a bivi much sooner than we'd hoped for.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 04/Jul/12 with Scott Kirkhope
luke321 - Jul/12 with Tom Jagger
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/12
Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 26/Jun/12 with Ed
The usual epic avec Jean Francois. Can be done in a day by younger people. Can be done in a very long day by a sexagenarian and his young friend. Summited at 8 pm as weather was getting a bit nasty. Bivouac at the station.
sacdenouilles - AltLd - 24/Jun/12 with J F Philippe
Climbed in two days. Cruxes seem to be understated on most accounts, found them harder than 'VS' and frequent. Getting around the Rognon took five pitches, not the expected three. Good route, although lacks line as the route wanders. The whole thing is also essentially a pile of choss. I'm surprised more people don't get hurt or killed by rockfall. So if it's on your tick list do it now because it's falling down!
Merlin - 2nd - 23/Jun/12 with Mark Patterson
Well, I thought it was great!
mark88 - Lead - 23/Jun/12 with Merlin Andrew
Hidden - 2012
darcan - AltLd - 2012 with chris bailey
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/11
Si - Oct/11
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 07/Sep/11
Drew M - AltLd - Sep/11 with Fred Lyon
Hidden - AltLd - 14/Aug/11
Went a few times gloriously off-route and bivvied on the best ledge we could find in the white-out, which obviously wasn't the usual place. Steep ice bit turned out to be so well travelled that a comparison to ladders would be in place.
reima - AltLd - 12/Aug/11 with Niamh
Great day, super fun. 2hours 25mins from the bergshrund to the midi plan ridge. (Sorry Greg) Perfect conditions at the moment.
Dave Searle - Solo - 10/Aug/11
Great day, super fun. 2hours 25mins from the bergshrund to the midi plan ridge. (Sorry Greg) Perfect conditions at the moment.
Dave Searle - Solo - 10/Aug/11
Hidden - AltLd - 10/Aug/11
Greg Boswell - Solo O/S - 02/Aug/11
Hidden - Aug/11
In a day from the hut. Did the entire rock in stickies, good ice on the left exit of the rognon. Stunning climb!
Alexandre Buisse - AltLd - 16/Jul/11 with Nick Valentine
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/11
13 hrs in all, bad snow conditions on the arete and upper section slowed us down and we were extra careful after the accident the previous week
RKernan - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Conor Gilmour
twright180 - 11/Jul/11 with John McCune
Easy 2 day climb with Floris. Day 1, 5 hours in the afternoon to the bivy. Day 2: another 5 hours to the top. Took the left exit to finish the route, climb ever steepening ice with the final crux pitch of 80degree ice that then became rotten nevee as the angle eased.
sarpedon - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11
Lenny - AltLd dnf - 05/Jul/11 with Paul
Condition were ok, dry rock in the lower sections. snow was a bit sugary but top ice sections were good. moved together through low, easy sections, pitched some harder parts. possibly off route on some parts, some higher gullies probably around V mixed (in hindsight I think we were on the Eastman Variant). Started late (1730) on first day, forced bivvy on rock section. finished route at 1800 next day just in time to miss the last cable car down.
chris687 - AltLd - 04/Jul/11 with Gareth Steel
Started late on the 3rd at about 1700. Ended up going too far L and a bit off route, necessitating a slightly uncomfortable bivi. Also managed to find a narrow couloir with some ice going at about Scottish 5. Avoided the rock rognon at the top via the ice on the R. About 200m of reasonable quality ice, though we had only 3 screws for protecton. Overall great route.
garethsteel - AltLd - 04/Jul/11 with chris687
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/11
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
9 hours, top class route.
liamo333 - 2011
Over two days, 12 hours climbing. Quite snowy on the upper rock pitches. Finished left.
Luke Brooks - AltLd - 22/Sep/10 with Francis
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Sep/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/10
Peter Holder - AltLd - 06/Sep/10 with lewis fraser
Took the right side up fairly hard ice. Completed in about 8.5 hours from the 3rd bin rather than the bivi option.
stevepotter - 05/Sep/10 with Matt
Quite snowy, poor delicate ice in the upper section. Right of rognon finish, excellent finishing gully to top out from!
John Carney - 01/Sep/10 with Rob Jarvis
Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/10
Moved together throughout, climbed left side of Rognon. 8.5hrs climbing
Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Lewis Grey
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10
Bivied at the top of the rock section, fantastic place to be. The Ice arete was the sacriest bit,your only protection to falling off would be for your partner to hopefully jump off the other side!
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 19/Aug/10 with Loz
moved together over rock, pitched ice exiting left of original route
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with James Monypenny
Pete Graham - AltLd - Aug/10 with Howard Lawledge
tumbling wizard - Aug/10 with andrew marshall
Wicked route, did in two days with bivi
inuklm - AltLd - 13/Jul/10 with David Fernandes, Juha
Started at 3am in the afternoon and finished the rock section at 9.30pm. Bivied until 2am and finished the snow and ice in the dark taking advantage of the perfect conditions. The sun hit the route as I was halfway through leading the top pitch! Top out at 6.30am
BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/10 with Neil Dowse
Neil D - AltLd rpt - 07/Jul/10 with Boriz Korzh
With a bivi. Ace route
Bristoldave - Lead - 05/Jul/10 with CarolineH
A fabulous line, loved it first time I saw it, massively enjoyable (and for me challenging) route. Conditions were pretty wet with a storm stopping us early on the first day, then some slush puppy conditions in the ice sections. But a dream come true.
oldgrey - 02/Jul/10 with Virgil Scott
Kyuzo - Jul/10
centurion05 - Jul/10
CarolineH - 05/Jun/10 with Dave
basvdploeg - 2010
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/09
Hidden - AltLd β - 28/Jul/09
Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jul/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/09
Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jul/09
Ally Baba - AltLd - 28/Jul/09 with R. Mcmurry
Anders_HP_DK - Lead - 24/Jul/09
Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/09 with Ben Cooling
Beautiful route! From bivi on the plan, thought we'd have to bivi on the ridge too, so we lugged big packs but hit the top at 3pm - much shorter than expected.
mathquirk - Lead - 02/Jul/09 with Petter Zachrisson
Hidden - Lead - Jul/09
Bruveris - AltLd - Jul/09
Got the first lift up to the Plan de L'Aiguille and sent the route in 1 day. Rock was in perfect condition and there was quite a lot of fixed gear. Ice was soft but not steep. Had to bivi in the top station as we missed the last train down.
benclimbing - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Phil Belcher
left the Plan D'Aiguille hut 3.30am and topped out at 12.30 - moved fast up the ice ridge and up the L side of the Rognon - big smiles as we passed 2 ropes of aspirant Italian guides who got lost 1/2 way up the rock section in the 1/2 light
Cham32 - Jul/09
Superb - the rock climbing was generally easy providing the easiest path is found and we took the rognon via some strange combo of direct and on the right with some fairly steep ice involved. Done over 2 days with bivi, rope damaged in rock fall meant doing most of it with a 25m 1/2 rope. Memorable adventure!
markfairbank - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/09 with SteveyM
Overnight. Went off route and tried to take the Rognon direct by mistake: a great piece of Scottish grade 4 ice climbing followed. Ended up escaping off to the right and taking the easy ramp to the top. . . .
SteveMyatt - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Mark Fairbank
Retreated due to reported avalanche activity higher on the route.
scottbecker - AltLd dnf - 23/Jun/09 with Mark Jarvie
Climbed the whole route on crampons, quite a bit of slush-puppy snow. With the fohn wind we were sinking knee deep in the snow!! Entertaining!!
Niekolaas - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09 with Jelle
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2009
robertporter - AltLd - 06/Aug/08
felixthelion - AltLd - 02/Aug/08 with T. Brookes
tommytuffa - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Felix
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Jay Jackson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08
blouise - Aug/08 with James Gordon
Jules C - Aug/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/08
Plan 7.20 - on route 8.40 - start snow 20.50 - top out 23.15. Went badly off route once leading to lengthy delicate moving together. Crux 5+ pitch seemed pretty straightforward, HS 4b? Ice section straightforward as stepped out. Need to be faster!
Misha - AltLd - 25/Jul/08
9 hours. 1 hour approach. Climb carefull is people are below you. A guy from one party broke his helmet because of a small avalanche of stones caused by a party next to us.
laurent - Lead - 25/Jul/08 with Sarah
We kipped at the top of the rock. Nice route. Not too hard. The hardest rock is perhaps english 4b at a push. The ice we found fine. Didn't place any screws though we carried a few.
decs - 16/Jul/08 with Sam
sgl - AltLd - 16/Jul/08 with duncan
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/08
Hidden - Lead - 04/Jul/08
10.5 hours from the Aig du Plan. Excellent route.
HamishD - AltLd - Jul/08 with chris burn
Hidden - 2nd - Jul/08
jam_rich - Jul/08
Neil D - AltLd - Jul/08 with Robert Porter
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08 with Dan Wicks
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/08
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/08 with Jim D
nofx - 2008
rob askew - AltLd - 2008 with IanJackson
Hidden - Lead dog - 2008
Hidden - 15/Sep/07
Hidden - AltLd - 09/Sep/07
Hidden - 09/Sep/07
Will_he_fall - 28/Aug/07 with Aly
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/07
Done in a day (8h50). Went left at the top.
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Luke Porter
Hidden - Solo - Aug/07
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/07
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/07 with g taylor
Nicos - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/07 with rich howels
Classic mixed route, with good rock sections, an airy snow arete and even some steep ice to finish. Felt long as was pretty snowy and slow going at the bottom, but then it is 1100m!
Chad123 - AltLd - 01/Jul/07 with Emily
Went Left (Scot IV). Lead ice and rock crux. Amazing day. We didnt use ice screws.
IanJackson - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Robeverybody
dave657 - 14/Sep/06 with Mike
Hidden - AltLd - 07/Aug/06
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/06
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/06 with Roel, Ed Booth
Ed Booth - AltLd - 24/Jul/06 with Adam Booth
Hidden - Jul/06
reg_measures - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Ralph, Timmy
bring shit loads of screws if doing in late season. 3 was enough but sketchy. going left at the rognon gives a pitch of scottish 5 ice. easily avoided on the buttress at the top though. mind crevassess at top too especially at 3pm
david morse - AltLd - Jul/06 with chris todd
Hidden - Jul/06
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/06
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/06
mike kann - AltLd - 2006 with Rich Draisey
Did it just after a dump of snow so most of the rock climbing was actually hard mixed climbing. Single push. Brilliant fun.
Neil Adams - Lead dog - 2006
zero six - AltLd O/S - 2006
feilx - Sep/05 with Ian Lovatt
All sorts of excitment.....
andyinglis - AltLd - Aug/05 with neil adams
dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Welsh Dan
Dave Thompson - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Thomas Martin
Bivvied at the half way ledges.
220bpm - AltLd O/S - Aug/04 with Dave
Scotsken - Jun/04
Nearly wiped out by a house sized boulder on the glacier in the afternoon. Very impressive at the storm which was bout 200m below the start of the ice arete. Went left of the rognon at the top.
BenTiffin - AltLd dog - Aug/03 with Dan Robinson
Hidden - 2nd dnf - Aug/02
tjekel - 2001
alternating leads / moving together.
Avoid being led left on ramps too early (at the start). We did and it took ages to regain the ridge crest.
nickdonohue - AltLd - 28/Aug/00 with Mark McCarthy
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/99
innes - AltLd O/S - Aug/99 with Jim
Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/98 with Ed Cartwright
thomasburley - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/97 with Chuck Pettigrew
stokesrees - AltLd - 1997 with Asmus Norveslet
rurp - Lead O/S - 1997
Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/96
NickJH - Lead O/S - Jul/96
Very Cold ice very hard ...not an easy ascent
Tony Kartawick - AltLd - Aug/95 with Nick
Fantastic. Found route finding on lower part difficult in places. Bivvied at top of rock - amazing. Upper ice felt 'out there' with two ice screws and unplanned moving together! Went left on ice at top until Jon broke his ice axe pick and we veared back onto rock - seemed to work well.
andy_pemberton - Jul/95 with Jon Scorer
frost - AltLd - Jul/94
alkira - 28/Jun/94 with kerry atkey
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/94
Fell off before I even got on the route whilst climbing soft snow to the foot of the rock section: thought I'd burst a kidney when I hit a rock! Sucked it up and followed my mate to the bivi when a huge storm arrived on the wrong side of the mountain - merci m. Meteo. Snow arete didn't solidify until well after dawn so couldn't do the rognon and went for steep ice on left as the best option. Good fun to lead. My mate got the slush up to the Midi-Plan ridge. Still a brilliant route.
Pete_Frost - AltLd - Jul/93
Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/92
Budge - AltLd O/S - 1992 with Brian Ottewell
Hidden - AltLd - Sep/90
Hidden - AltLd - 17/Aug/89
A two day epic complete with bivi in thunderstorm at the top of the ice.
AndrewP - AltLd - Aug/89
Hidden - Jul/89
Bivied just below the Rognan after taking too long helping a couple of Spnish climbers.
Guy - AltLd - Aug/88 with The old man
lots of spring snow on lower rocks. 2 bivvies with Simon & Pip
Grezza - AltLd - Jun/88 with JuJu
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/87
Hidden - Oct/83
John Marsland - Aug/83 with Winky and Andrew
Hidden - Lead - Aug/81
Hidden - Sep/80
Hidden - Aug/80
mark-abz - AltLd - Jul/80 with Brian W
Nigel Bond - AltLd - 25/Aug/78 with Stuart Millar
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - Aug/76 with John Whittock
First route in Western Alps
Falko - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/75 with Peter Brashaw
Hidden - AltLd - 1974
granitbahn - AltLd - Aug/71
mikej - AltLd - Aug/69 with Jerry Young