UKC

55m, 2 pitches. Another stunning route, taking the immaculate smooth wall left of the right arete. Start as for the previous route.
1. 25 6a Climb directly up, then trend left to below the obvious stepped black groove which is climbed with some difficulty. Continue up over ledges to belay below a tiny corner at the base of the headwall, a few metres right of a black crack (25m);
2. 35m 6b/c Stand on the block below the corner and stretch right to place a good small wire in the crack up and right. Climb boldly right past this to good holds and protection on the arete, then step back left and follow a faint groove more or less directly to a huge rough hold at the first break. Make a tricky move up right to gain another faint groove (RPs out right) which is followed to big flat holds which lead strenuously to the next break. Go left a short way to gain a rattling flake; stand on this and follow thin cracks to niche and block. Make hard moves past this (crux) to the upper break then pull out right to ledges. Easier cracks on the right lead up and then back left to the top.

Robertson and Russell Sep/2015.

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Route of Interest
Cerberus

Grade: E7 6c ***
(Glenmarksie Crag)

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