305m, 7 pitches. P1: 40m (only 20m if there is an avalanche cone). Not very steep. Bolt belay on left.
P2: 50m. 80 degree start then easy onto snow. Bolt belay on right above Goulotte Martinez.
P3: 55m. Snow then 75 degree ice. Ignore bolt belay just left of centre at 25m. Keep going to the bolt belay on the left.
P4: 55m. 70 degree then 80 degrees for 5m (crux) just past rock on left with an ice pillar. Bolt belay on the big rock wall in the middle of the ice flow. There are inferior options to divide the pitch in two: a bolt belay on the right, a screw and sling round ice pillar on the left or ice screw belay on a good snow ledge lower on the left.
P5: 30m. Up left (more obvious) or right. 70 degrees to start then 60 degrees. Bolt belay on right.
P6: 20m. 60 degrees to bolt belay on left.
P7: 55m. Up snow then a beautiful ice half cone. 70 degrees then bolt belay on left.
Abseil down the route, going straight from the P6 to P4 belay station.

Soem debate about the grade The listed grade is French Ice 4 this does not necessarily equate to WI4.

WI3 - generally sustained in the 60-70 degree range with occasional near-vertical steps up to 4 metres (Cascade Waterfall, Banff; This House of Sky, Ghost River)

WI4 - near-vertical steps of up to 10 metres, generally sustained climbing requiring placing protection screws from strenuous stances (Professor's Falls, Banff; Weeping Wall Left, Icefields Parkway, Banff; Silk Tassle, Yoho; Moonlight & Snowline, Kananskis)

TheAndyBarker ?/Feb/13 AltLd

First 2 pitches then the sun started throwing things down from above.. Ran away.

with Jonny Herbert
augustus trout 24/Jan/13 2nd

8 Pitches Lead first pitch the next day (its only WI 2?)

Poco Loco 18/Jan/13 Lead

Lucy's first ice route. Got 2 pitches up when the party above us was hit by a small avalanche of ice debris, ice on pitch 3 upwards thin and not in brilliant condition. Abseiled from there. Going to try another valley!

with Lucy
lucyh 18/Jan/13 2nd

First ever ice climb! Loved the first pitch. Backed off after the second as spindrift from above. Only 2 mins from the road!

thomaspomfrett 18/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

First two pitches only, conditions a little thin. Small avalanche coming down the top pitches was enough to prompt a rapid abseil.

with Dan Slome
NickJH ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with LiamG
Hidden 16/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Ciderslider 11/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Lead 1st Pitch, Paul lead second - then abed off

Hidden 30/Jan/11 2nd O/S
joncannon 03/Jan/11 AltLd

Third attempt, started at 7am in the dark and Will lead first pitch. Got 8 pitches completed but did not complete the final pitch to reach the snow gully halfway. Great route and a cracking day out.

willhawkins ?/Jan/11 AltLd
joncannon 31/Dec/10 AltLd

Lazy day but did first 2 pitches, Will lead the first pitch and I lead the second pitch. Abseiled off after this as it was getting dark. Second pitch was steep for a short section, bolts for belays/abseils and great ice though part of the fall was still open and flowing.

joncannon 29/Dec/10 AltLd

First 2 pitches, I lead the first pitch and Will lead the second pitch. Abseiled off after this as it was getting dark. Second pitch was steep for a short section, bolts for belays/abseils and great ice though part of the fall was still open and flowing.

Hidden 29/Jan/10 AltLd
mikehenesy 09/Jan/10 2nd

didn't get to the climb until 3.0, think the locals thought we were mad. Had spent all day chasing around after routes that weren't there! Came out the tunnel on the way to La Grave and hey presto, there were people climbing, well just comming off Mini Cat. Did first two/one? easy pitches and abbed off by torch lite, off a chain and some rebar!

with Stuart Fletcher
machars 27/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
ericinbristol ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with Graeme Barr
Swirly ?/Jan/09 AltLd
with Sam
kerry cooper ?/Dec/08 -
Morgan Woods 03/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Only first 2 pitches as the rest were in the sun. Apprently some danger above due to an overflowing resevoir.

with Rob, Dee & Ted
Hidden 03/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Rubbishy ?/Feb/08 -
RocknRoll 08/Jan/08 AltLd dnf

I lead the second and third pitches. I Took the direct line up the middle/left of the second pitch and that was grade 4 or 4+. The fourth pitch was thinly formed in a very long (50m) bulgy overhanging column at approx grade 6 so we didn't complete it.

RedFox 05/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
with Maria
maria85 05/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
with Stef
Allan Young 16/Jan/06 2nd β

First 2 pitches only

with Christian Minett
Neil Adams ??/2006 -
FrankW 22/Jan/05 Lead rpt
with Iain H
Hidden ?/Feb/04 AltLd O/S
smithaldo 30/Jan/04 Lead O/S
with Clegg
French Erick 03/Jan/04 AltLd O/S
with Andy Sharpe
FrankW 28/Dec/03 AltLd rpt
with Simon Rogers
FrankW 09/Jan/03 Lead O/S
with Levi
Hidden ?/Jan/03 AltLd O/S
mark4344 ?/Jan/03 AltLd O/S
with dave t , Nick Coles
Hidden 10/Jan/02 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths ?/Dec/97 -
with Paul Morgan, John
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
iksander, Hidden
High WI3+
Mid WI3+
Low WI3+
High WI3
Mid WI3
Low WI3
High WI2+
Mid WI2+
Low WI2+
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set