Hautes-Alpes > La Grave >
 
Caturgeas*** WI3

Adjacent Climbs
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Goulltte Martinez >>
[A fleeting and insignificant human presence., 3 kb]305m, 7 pitches. P1: 40m (only 20m if there is an avalanche cone). Not very steep. Bolt belay on left. P2: 50m. 80 degree start then easy onto snow. Bolt belay on right above Goulotte Martinez. P3: 55m. Snow then 75 degree ice. Ignore bolt belay just left of centre at 25m. Keep going to the bolt belay on the left. P4: 55m. 70 degree then 80 degrees for 5m (crux) just past rock on left with an ice pillar. Bolt belay on the big rock wall in the middle of the ice flow. There are inferior options to divide the pitch in two: a bolt belay on the right, a screw and sling round ice pillar on the left or ice screw belay on a good snow ledge lower on the left. P5: 30m. Up left (more obvious) or right. 70 degrees to start then 60 degrees. Bolt belay on right. P6: 20m. 60 degrees to bolt belay on left. P7: 55m. Up snow then a beautiful ice half cone. 70 degrees then bolt belay on left. Abseil down the route, going straight from the P6 to P4 belay station. Soem debate about the grade The listed grade is French Ice 4 this does not necessarily equate to WI4. WI3 - generally sustained in the 60-70 degree range with occasional near-vertical steps up to 4 metres (Cascade Waterfall, Banff; This House of Sky, Ghost River) WI4 - near-vertical steps of up to 10 metres, generally sustained climbing requiring placing protection screws from strenuous stances (Professor's Falls, Banff; Weeping Wall Left, Icefields Parkway, Banff; Silk Tassle, Yoho; Moonlight & Snowline, Kananskis)

Photo: A fleeting and insignificant human presence. © Dave Williams
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 36 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

First 2 pitches then the sun started throwing things down from above.. Ran away.
TheAndyBarker - AltLd - Feb/13 with Jonny Herbert

8 Pitches Lead first pitch the next day (its only WI 2?)
augustus trout - 2nd - 24/Jan/13

Lucy's first ice route. Got 2 pitches up when the party above us was hit by a small avalanche of ice debris, ice on pitch 3 upwards thin and not in brilliant condition. Abseiled from there. Going to try another valley!
Poco Loco - Lead - 18/Jan/13 with Lucy

First ever ice climb! Loved the first pitch. Backed off after the second as spindrift from above. Only 2 mins from the road!
lucyh - 2nd - 18/Jan/13 with James Pomeroy

First two pitches only, conditions a little thin. Small avalanche coming down the top pitches was enough to prompt a rapid abseil.
thomaspomfrett - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/13 with Dan Slome

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Feb/12 with LiamG

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/12

Lead 1st Pitch, Paul lead second - then abed off
Ciderslider - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/11

Third attempt, started at 7am in the dark and Will lead first pitch. Got 8 pitches completed but did not complete the final pitch to reach the snow gully halfway. Great route and a cracking day out.
joncannon - AltLd - 03/Jan/11 with Will Hawkins

willhawkins - AltLd - Jan/11

Lazy day but did first 2 pitches, Will lead the first pitch and I lead the second pitch. Abseiled off after this as it was getting dark. Second pitch was steep for a short section, bolts for belays/abseils and great ice though part of the fall was still open and flowing.
joncannon - AltLd - 31/Dec/10 with Will Hawkins

First 2 pitches, I lead the first pitch and Will lead the second pitch. Abseiled off after this as it was getting dark. Second pitch was steep for a short section, bolts for belays/abseils and great ice though part of the fall was still open and flowing.
joncannon - AltLd - 29/Dec/10 with Will Hawkins

didn't get to the climb until 3.0, think the locals thought we were mad. Had spent all day chasing around after routes that weren't there! Came out the tunnel on the way to La Grave and hey presto, there were people climbing, well just comming off Mini Cat. Did first two/one? easy pitches and abbed off by torch lite, off a chain and some rebar!
mikehenesy - 2nd - 09/Jan/10 with Stuart Fletcher

machars - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/09 with Eric Herring

ericinbristol - AltLd O/S - Jan/09 with Graeme Barr

Swirly - AltLd - Jan/09 with Sam

kerry cooper - Dec/08

Only first 2 pitches as the rest were in the sun. Apprently some danger above due to an overflowing resevoir.
Morgan Woods - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/08 with Rob, Dee & Ted

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/08

John Rushby - Feb/08

I lead the second and third pitches. I Took the direct line up the middle/left of the second pitch and that was grade 4 or 4+. The fourth pitch was thinly formed in a very long (50m) bulgy overhanging column at approx grade 6 so we didn't complete it.
RocknRoll - AltLd dnf - 08/Jan/08

RedFox - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/08 with Maria

maria85 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/08 with Stef

First 2 pitches only
Allan Young - 2nd β - 16/Jan/06 with Christian Minett

Neil Adams - 2006

FrankW - Lead rpt - 22/Jan/05 with Iain H

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/04

smithaldo - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/04 with Clegg

French Erick - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/04 with Andy Sharpe

FrankW - AltLd rpt - 28/Dec/03 with Simon Rogers

FrankW - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/03 with Levi

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/03

mark4344 - AltLd O/S - Jan/03 with dave t , Nick Coles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jan/02

NeilGriffiths - Dec/97 with Paul Morgan, John

Voting
Total votes cast 14
hard WI3+0 of 7
WI3+0 of 7
easy WI3+6 of 7
hard WI30 of 7
WI31 of 7
easy WI30 of 7
hard WI2+0 of 7
WI2+0 of 7
easy WI2+0 of 7
3 Stars6 of 7
2 Stars1 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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Style of ascent

Lead6 of 36 (16.7%)
Followed5 of 36 (13.9%)
Alt Leads21 of 36 (58.3%)
Unknown4 of 36 (11.1%)

'Climbed'14 of 36 (38.9%)
clean O/S18 of 36 (50.0%)
clean β1 of 36 (2.8%)
clean rpt2 of 36 (5.6%)
dnf1 of 36 (2.8%)