25m.
This takes the wall (buttress) to the right of Gaucho and left of Rebel's Groove. Avoiding holds and gear from either of the climbs left or right (eliminate), climb the crack in the pillar to a ledge (same ledge of Rebel's Groove), and from there climb straight up to a blunt black rib. There's a creaky/shaky/loose flake that you inevitably use to overcome the bulge. From top of the bulge, continue straight up to the top.
UPDATE 30/04/2021: The shaky flake(s) have both fallen off leaving a large scoop of dirt. The grade is now unknown. Climb with caution.
Climbers from this point on are encouraged to leave comments on their ascents as well as votes on the grade, so we can figure out what the best grading is from here on. Cheers.
UPDATE 30/04/2021: The shaky flake(s) have both fallen off leaving a large scoop of dirt. The grade is now unknown. Climb with caution.
Climbers from this point on are encouraged to leave comments on their ascents as well as votes on the grade, so we can figure out what the best grading is from here on. Cheers.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| sukcs | 6 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Climbed yesterday (previously climbed 2016). The area where the shaky flake must have been is now clean but lacking in what was probably a vital hold at the grade. I felt it sensible to join Rebel's Groove for a move or two (around the right-facing blocky corner) before getting back on line a metre or so higher. Others may find a more direct solution but the route was always a bit of a filler. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Climbed yesterday (previously climbed 2016). The area where the shaky flake must have been is now clean but lacking in what was probably a vital hold at the grade. I felt it sensible to join Rebel's Groove for a move or two (around the right-facing blocky corner) before getting back on line a metre or so higher. Others may find a more direct solution but the route was always a bit of a filler. |
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| jcarr9912 | 29 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ollie thought it was about E1 5a when we did it today | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ollie thought it was about E1 5a when we did it today |
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| trying.soft | 30 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The big flakes are now gone and a large scoop of dirt is in their place. Grade unknown. Climb with caution. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The big flakes are now gone and a large scoop of dirt is in their place. Grade unknown. Climb with caution. |
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Route of Interest
Elgin's Crack
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Limekilns)