Brilliant route brilliant weather no midges!
Scotsken - AltLd - 12/Jun/15 with Stu Green
Even pitches. Great day out. Followed the topo which was accurate.
stugreen75 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/15 with scotsken
MonkeyDawson - AltLd O/S - Jun/15 with Simon Smith
plain kitten - 2015
alice_loudon - 2nd - 03/Sep/14 with Niels
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/14
jess - AltLd - Sep/14 with neill
Actually climbed first two pitches of this then various bits of other routes including long wait direct and a 5c pitch of Angel (nice one Andy) also covered some new ground and added a direct escape from tree lined ledge above angel belay. All in all an excellent 'new' line and we feel probably E4 5c.
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Andy Wilson
Seems like we went off route and did some new climbing. Did the roof and slab of Angel and Matt led the final head wall direct from the trees to finish. We would say this deserves E4 5c. Reading other comments I think there must be a discrepancy between the guidebook description, the topo and the actual route. The problem seems to lie on the pitch after the long reach prior to the section through the last roof with the overhanging groove. I was slumped in the trees with a thousand yard stare after leading the slab! Felt like sixty degrees with no holds or gear!
Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Matt Nuttall
Lead P1,3,5.Most of the best moves, are getting over the different overlaps (apart from 'the long reach'!)
joesmith - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Simon Davidson
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Joe
Back on the slabs, and they delivered the goods as always. We did a "full" 30m pitch (as described) past the first major overlap (as per Swastika). Belayed at a "small ledge with flake crack" which took 3 small cams. I led left from there, past some sort of "quartz pocket" and up to a "grassy ledge". At this point we realised we were a good 30m left of where both Gary Latter's and the SMC guides photos topos show you breaking through the second "major" overlap. So, we went up to the overlap, traversed hard right for ~20m and belayed below a steep boulder section with a big jug, pulling over into a nice finger crack.
Bottom line is - the photo topos, or the written topo are plain wrong as they don't even close to match.
Bloody awesome route though ahhaha!
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/14 with James Sutton
Rained off at 3rd belay, felt hard although friction was poor!
KennyGeoghegan - AltLd dnf - 01/Mar/14 with Andy
mike mo - 2014
LHumble - Lead O/S - 2014 with David Griffin
James Thacker - 2014
Brilliant. long exposed sections
arose - AltLd - 26/May/13 with Adrian Dunlop
scottyskier82 - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Ali Rose
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13
Chris Reid - 25/May/13 with Lissy Manners
Hidden - 2nd - 01/Mar/13
captain - 2013
Hidden - 2013
Only did the first pitch, was about 3 hours later than we thought! finished up spartan slab and just got down before dark. On the plus side, the first pitch is absolutely stunning, requiring some serious commitment straight off the deck. A skyhook and something to weight it would be a welcome runner for the first moves left into the base of the corner.
JamieSparkes - Lead - 23/Sep/12
Got lost on P3 & 4, reversed down to top of P2 and abbed off.
Bern - AltLd dnf - 05/Jun/12 with Peter Brown
Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/12
Hidden - Lead - 20/May/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/12
D.Russell - AltLd O/S - 06/May/12 with Adam
valecoastclimber - AltLd O/S - 03/May/12
I led pitches 1 and 3. We were off route after the 'long reach' and ended up finishing up the pause.
gjd - AltLd rpt - 29/Apr/12 with Sam Burns
Wow wow wow
tomdude - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Rich Abel
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12
Patzl - 2012
Patzl - AltLd - 2012
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 01/Aug/11
Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/11
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with will sim
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11
Unfortunately it turned out to be soaking, so we abseiled down from the top of the first pitch.
Smelly Fox - Lead dnf - 16/Apr/11 with Heather Fox
Hidden - 2011
adie84 - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
fraking awsome!! some of the best moves ive done anywhere... got off route quite a few times, but still awsome
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with graham pinkerton
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10
Simon Yearsley - AltLd - Sep/10 with Chris Pasteur
buzby78 - AltLd - 01/Jul/10
An immense climb, could be E2 if you consistantley took the least protected but more direct lines, there are a number of options in the SMC book.
jamiefoxen - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with bob foster
jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10 with Lukas
vanderz - AltLd O/S - 10/May/10 with patrick dawson
Hardcore Pat - AltLd O/S - 10/May/10 with Chris Vanderz
Fantastic and varied climbing. Top traverse and overhang were wet and slimy but well protected.
jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 08/May/10 with Peter
Couple of deviations. Deviation 1 took first/second pitches more direct via Pause belay, Deviation 2 forced a crazy bold lead from Ferdia, crossing the final overlap before the main headwall as for Angel then straight up the featureless slab above, probably worth E4 5c in its own right (25m runout with last gear below overlap). Great route, accidental variants included.
Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Ferdia
probably only on route for about 2.5 pitches. Included a 5c sectionof Angel with a 20m runout!!
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Andy
colinthrelfall - 2010
Hidden - 2010
A fantastic climb, had to a few detours to avoid damp patches but this seemed to add to the climb. A micro cam just below the long reach took a little of the fear factor away, but not much!
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 18/Sep/09 with Loz
sadams - AltLd - 12/Sep/09 with Eric Hildrew
Absolutely outstanding missed out the finish as it was wet.
Sandy Simpson - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with brian duthie
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/09
khartwig - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Jim Macphail
jim.macp - 01/Apr/09
tumbling wizard - 2009
Hidden - 2nd - 07/Sep/08
went wrong way for the last couple of pitches, ended up on long wait belay, then traversed accross to pause
dave o - Lead - 07/Sep/08 with Julia H
Captain Solo - AltLd - 13/Jul/08 with Dougie
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/May/08
Took a slip on the "long reach" but somehow managed to stop myself slipping before the ropes came tight! Worldclass climbing!
dj_brigham05 - AltLd O/S - 14/May/08 with Thom Simmons
Brilliant bold climbing. Def E2 5b, not E1 5b as in stated in SMC selected climbs
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 13/May/08 with Al Goodridge
Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/06
Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/06
jim robertson - 2006
Every pitch demanded commitment, every pitch was sweet.
john irving - 2006 with Al Reid
whispering nic - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Swiss Tony
Led the Reach pitch which seemed about Hard Severe. Had to go round the big roof on the top pitch.
alan moore - 2005
Gudge - AltLd O/S - Sep/01 with Tim Darlow
This is a brilliant route. the first pitches up to the overlap are the slabs at their best.
brianrunner - AltLd - 2001 with martina
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/00
bullybones - 2000
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1999
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/97
Was all going fine til we stupidly did the Pause traverse then had to take a diagonal line back left over the slabs above. One runner at 8m, had to reset belay there mid-pitch to allow rope to reach next belay. Then tried to finish up what would become Angel but had to TR right to rejoin TLR. Stupid/Epic type-2 fun.
Dr Toph - AltLd O/S - 1997 with Ken Darkness
Duncan I - AltLd - Aug/95 with TobyJohnson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/95
we got lost at the top as well - think we done angel as some other parties - it certainly felt e3 5c and the hardest thing i had ever led
auld al - AltLd O/S - May/95
Hidden - AltLd - 1994
Kev dropped the guide on pitch 3. We got lost!
Jon Read - AltLd O/S - Jul/93 with Kev Turner
took a very long falling slide on p4
Tom V - AltLd - Jun/93 with Glenn Watson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/May/93
rob.grafton - Lead - 24/May/92 with Bruce
innes - AltLd O/S - 1991
graham lawrie - Lead O/S - 1990
uphillnow - 1990
Hidden - AltLd - 1989
Falko - AltLd O/S - 1985 with Howard Lancashire
Lone Rider - AltLd - 1985
neil3965 - AltLd - Jun/80 with Adam Kassyk
Hidden - Lead - 19/May/80
Chris Craggs - 1980
Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 03/Jun/79 with Chris Callow
Pedro50 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/78 with Wil Hurford, Robin Miller
Brilliant climbing, way runout!
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd O/S - May/78 with Alan Walmsley