Argyll and Bute > Beinn Trilleachan (Etive Slabs) >
The Long Reach*** E2 5b

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The Band of Hope >>
[The Long Reach, Etive Slabs, 2 kb]**** in the Glencoe Guide. Fantastic Bold slab climbing at its very best.

Ticklists: Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Rock Climbs ****, Best slab climbs of the UK, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Summer Trip 2014, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: The Long Reach, Etive Slabs © Ally Smith
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This climb is in 84 logbooks, and on 29 wishlists.

Brilliant. long exposed sections
arose - AltLd - 26/May/13 with Adrian Dunlop

scottyskier82 - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Ali Rose

My first 7 pitch route. Very run out in sections and pretty scary. Packed the wrong shoes only had my new super painful ones, and dropped a trainer halfway up so had to descend in one trainer and one rock boot! Sure we got lost near the top but seemed to have followed this route;
lissymanners - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Chris Reid

Hidden - 25/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Mar/13

captain - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Only did the first pitch, was about 3 hours later than we thought! finished up spartan slab and just got down before dark. On the plus side, the first pitch is absolutely stunning, requiring some serious commitment straight off the deck. A skyhook and something to weight it would be a welcome runner for the first moves left into the base of the corner.
JamieSparkes - Lead - 23/Sep/12

Got lost on P3 & 4, reversed down to top of P2 and abbed off.
Bern - AltLd dnf - 05/Jun/12 with Peter Brown

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/12

parker5 - Lead O/S - 29/May/12 with Dad

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/12

valecoastclimber - AltLd O/S - 03/May/12

I led pitches 1 and 3. We were off route after the 'long reach' and ended up finishing up the pause.
gjd - AltLd rpt - 29/Apr/12 with Sam Burns

Wow wow wow
tomdude - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Rich Abel

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12

Patzl - 2012

Patzl - AltLd - 2012

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 01/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/11

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with will sim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11

Unfortunately it turned out to be soaking, so we abseiled down from the top of the first pitch.
Smelly Fox - Lead dnf - 16/Apr/11 with Heather Thikey

Hidden - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

fraking awsome!! some of the best moves ive done anywhere... got off route quite a few times, but still awsome
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with graham pinkerton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10

buzby78 - AltLd - 01/Jul/10

An immense climb, could be E2 if you consistantley took the least protected but more direct lines, there are a number of options in the SMC book.
jamiefoxen - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with bob foster

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10 with Lukas

vanderz - AltLd O/S - 10/May/10 with patrick dawson

Odd leads.
Hardcore Pat - AltLd O/S - 10/May/10 with Chris Vanderz

Fantastic and varied climbing. Top traverse and overhang were wet and slimy but well protected.
jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 08/May/10 with Peter

Couple of deviations. Deviation 1 took first/second pitches more direct via Pause belay, Deviation 2 forced a crazy bold lead from Ferdia, crossing the final overlap before the main headwall as for Angel then straight up the featureless slab above, probably worth at least E3 5c in its own right (25m runout with last gear below overlap). Great route, accidental variants included.
Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Ferdia

probably only on route for about 2.5 pitches. Included a 5c sectionof Angel with a 20m runout!!
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Andy

colinthrelfall - 2010

Hidden - 2010

A fantastic climb, had to a few detours to avoid damp patches but this seemed to add to the climb. A micro cam just below the long reach took a little of the fear factor away, but not much!
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 18/Sep/09 with Loz

sadams - AltLd - 12/Sep/09 with Eric Hildrew

Absolutely outstanding missed out the finish as it was wet.
Sandy Simpson - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with brian duthie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/09

khartwig - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Jim Macphail

jim.macp - 01/Apr/09

tumbling wizard - 2009

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Sep/08

went wrong way for the last couple of pitches, ended up on long wait belay, then traversed accross to pause
dave o - Lead - 07/Sep/08 with Julia H

Captain Solo - AltLd - 13/Jul/08 with Dougie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/May/08

Took a slip on the "long reach" but somehow managed to stop myself slipping before the ropes came tight! Worldclass climbing!
dj_brigham05 - AltLd O/S - 14/May/08 with Thom Simmons

Brilliant bold climbing. Def E2 5b, not E1 5b as in stated in SMC selected climbs
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 13/May/08 with Al Goodridge

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/06

jim robertson - 2006

Every pitch demanded commitment, every pitch was sweet.
john irving - 2006 with Al Reid

whispering nic - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Swiss Tony

This is a brilliant route. the first pitches up to the overlap are the slabs at their best.
brianrunner - AltLd - 2001 with martina

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1999

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/97

Was all going fine til we stupidly did the Pause traverse then had to take a diagonal line back left over the slabs above. One runner at 8m, had to reset belay there mid-pitch to allow rope to reach next belay. Then tried to finish up what would become Angel but had to TR right to rejoin TLR. Stupid/Epic type-2 fun.
Dr Toph - AltLd O/S - 1997 with Ken Darkness

Duncan I - AltLd - Aug/95 with TobyJohnson

cam1401 - AltLd O/S - Aug/95 with Tony

we got lost at the top as well - think we done angel as some other parties - it certainly felt e3 5c and the hardest thing i had ever led
auld al - AltLd O/S - May/95

Kev dropped the guide on pitch 3. We got lost!
Jon Read - AltLd O/S - Jul/93 with Kev Turner

took a very long falling slide on p4
Tom V - AltLd - Jun/93 with Glenn Watson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/May/93

rob.grafton - Lead - 24/May/92 with Bruce

innes - AltLd O/S - 1991

graham lawrie - Lead O/S - 1990

David Smith - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 1989

Falko - AltLd O/S - 1985 with Howard Lancashire

Lone Rider - AltLd - 1985

neil3965 - AltLd - Jun/80 with Adam Kassyk

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/80

Chris Craggs - 1980

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 03/Jun/79 with Chris Callow

Pedro50 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/78 with Wil Hurford, Robin Miller

Brilliant climbing, way runout!
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd O/S - May/78 with Alan Walmsley

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matthew Ferrier, Hidden, rurp, Hidden, Edvenables, Alex the Alex, sgl0jd, arose, gurumed, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, murrayjosep, freudy_love, Hidden, Hidden, mikemartin, Ropeboy, climbinmunkey, PeteH, Hidden, timo.t, Mr Powly, Hidden, tatz45, French Erick, rob askew, IanJackson

Total votes cast 95
hard E30 of 34
E30 of 34
easy E31 of 34
hard E22 of 34
E218 of 34
easy E24 of 34
hard E19 of 34
E10 of 34
easy E10 of 34
hard 5c0 of 32
5c0 of 32
easy 5c0 of 32
hard 5b4 of 32
5b25 of 32
easy 5b1 of 32
hard 5a2 of 32
5a0 of 32
easy 5a0 of 32
3 Stars28 of 29
2 Stars1 of 29
1 Star0 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent

Lead10 of 84 (11.9%)
Followed7 of 84 (8.3%)
Alt Leads50 of 84 (59.5%)
Unknown17 of 84 (20.2%)

'Climbed'40 of 84 (47.6%)
clean O/S39 of 84 (46.4%)
clean rpt1 of 84 (1.2%)
dnf4 of 84 (4.8%)