The Long Reach*** E2 5b
[The Long Reach, Etive Slabs, 2 kb]**** in the Glencoe Guide. Fantastic Bold slab climbing at its very best.

Ticklists: Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Rock Climbs ****, Best slab climbs of the UK, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Great Scottish E2s, Summer Trip 2014, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: The Long Reach, Etive Slabs © Ally Smith
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 96 logbooks, and on 30 wishlists.

alice_loudon - 2nd - 03/Sep/14 with Niels

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/14

jess - AltLd - Sep/14 with neill

Actually climbed first two pitches of this then various bits of other routes including long wait direct and a 5c pitch of Angel (nice one Andy) also covered some new ground and added a direct escape from tree lined ledge above angel belay. All in all an excellent 'new' line and we feel probably E4 5c.
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Andy Wilson

Seems like we went off route and did some new climbing. Did the roof and slab of Angel and Matt led the final head wall direct from the trees to finish. We would say this deserves E4 5c. Reading other comments I think there must be a discrepancy between the guidebook description, the topo and the actual route. The problem seems to lie on the pitch after the long reach prior to the section through the last roof with the overhanging groove. I was slumped in the trees with a thousand yard stare after leading the slab! Felt like sixty degrees with no holds or gear!
Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Matt Nuttall

Lead P1,3,5.Most of the best moves, are getting over the different overlaps (apart from 'the long reach'!)
joesmith - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Simon Davidson

simon_D - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Joe

Back on the slabs, and they delivered the goods as always. We did a "full" 30m pitch (as described) past the first major overlap (as per Swastika). Belayed at a "small ledge with flake crack" which took 3 small cams. I led left from there, past some sort of "quartz pocket" and up to a "grassy ledge". At this point we realised we were a good 30m left of where both Gary Latter's and the SMC guides photos topos show you breaking through the second "major" overlap. So, we went up to the overlap, traversed hard right for ~20m and belayed below a steep boulder section with a big jug, pulling over into a nice finger crack. Bottom line is - the photo topos, or the written topo are plain wrong as they don't even close to match. Bloody awesome route though ahhaha!
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/14 with James Sutton

mike mo - 2014

LHumble - 2014

Brilliant. long exposed sections
arose - AltLd - 26/May/13 with Adrian Dunlop

scottyskier82 - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Ali Rose

My first 7 pitch route. Very run out in sections and pretty scary. Packed the wrong shoes only had my new super painful ones, and dropped a trainer halfway up so had to descend in one trainer and one rock boot! Sure we got lost near the top but seemed to have followed this route; http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4823
lissymanners - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Chris Reid

Chris Reid - 25/May/13 with Lissy Manners

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Mar/13

captain - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Only did the first pitch, was about 3 hours later than we thought! finished up spartan slab and just got down before dark. On the plus side, the first pitch is absolutely stunning, requiring some serious commitment straight off the deck. A skyhook and something to weight it would be a welcome runner for the first moves left into the base of the corner.
JamieSparkes - Lead - 23/Sep/12

Got lost on P3 & 4, reversed down to top of P2 and abbed off.
Bern - AltLd dnf - 05/Jun/12 with Peter Brown

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/12

valecoastclimber - AltLd O/S - 03/May/12

I led pitches 1 and 3. We were off route after the 'long reach' and ended up finishing up the pause.
gjd - AltLd rpt - 29/Apr/12 with Sam Burns

Wow wow wow
tomdude - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Rich Abel

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12

Patzl - 2012

Patzl - AltLd - 2012

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 01/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/11

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with will sim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11

Unfortunately it turned out to be soaking, so we abseiled down from the top of the first pitch.
Smelly Fox - Lead dnf - 16/Apr/11 with Heather Thikey

Hidden - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

fraking awsome!! some of the best moves ive done anywhere... got off route quite a few times, but still awsome
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with graham pinkerton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10

buzby78 - AltLd - 01/Jul/10

An immense climb, could be E2 if you consistantley took the least protected but more direct lines, there are a number of options in the SMC book.
jamiefoxen - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with bob foster

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10 with Lukas

vanderz - AltLd O/S - 10/May/10 with patrick dawson

Odd leads.
Hardcore Pat - AltLd O/S - 10/May/10 with Chris Vanderz

Fantastic and varied climbing. Top traverse and overhang were wet and slimy but well protected.
jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 08/May/10 with Peter

Couple of deviations. Deviation 1 took first/second pitches more direct via Pause belay, Deviation 2 forced a crazy bold lead from Ferdia, crossing the final overlap before the main headwall as for Angel then straight up the featureless slab above, probably worth E4 5c in its own right (25m runout with last gear below overlap). Great route, accidental variants included.
Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Ferdia

probably only on route for about 2.5 pitches. Included a 5c sectionof Angel with a 20m runout!!
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Andy

colinthrelfall - 2010

Hidden - 2010

A fantastic climb, had to a few detours to avoid damp patches but this seemed to add to the climb. A micro cam just below the long reach took a little of the fear factor away, but not much!
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 18/Sep/09 with Loz

sadams - AltLd - 12/Sep/09 with Eric Hildrew

Absolutely outstanding missed out the finish as it was wet.
Sandy Simpson - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with brian duthie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/09

khartwig - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Jim Macphail

jim.macp - 01/Apr/09

tumbling wizard - 2009

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Sep/08

went wrong way for the last couple of pitches, ended up on long wait belay, then traversed accross to pause
dave o - Lead - 07/Sep/08 with Julia H

Captain Solo - AltLd - 13/Jul/08 with Dougie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/May/08

Took a slip on the "long reach" but somehow managed to stop myself slipping before the ropes came tight! Worldclass climbing!
dj_brigham05 - AltLd O/S - 14/May/08 with Thom Simmons

Brilliant bold climbing. Def E2 5b, not E1 5b as in stated in SMC selected climbs
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 13/May/08 with Al Goodridge

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/06

jim robertson - 2006

Every pitch demanded commitment, every pitch was sweet.
john irving - 2006 with Al Reid

whispering nic - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Swiss Tony

alan moore - 2005

Gudge - AltLd O/S - Sep/01 with Tim Darlow

This is a brilliant route. the first pitches up to the overlap are the slabs at their best.
brianrunner - AltLd - 2001 with martina

bullybones - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1999

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/97

Was all going fine til we stupidly did the Pause traverse then had to take a diagonal line back left over the slabs above. One runner at 8m, had to reset belay there mid-pitch to allow rope to reach next belay. Then tried to finish up what would become Angel but had to TR right to rejoin TLR. Stupid/Epic type-2 fun.
Dr Toph - AltLd O/S - 1997 with Ken Darkness

Duncan I - AltLd - Aug/95 with TobyJohnson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/95

we got lost at the top as well - think we done angel as some other parties - it certainly felt e3 5c and the hardest thing i had ever led
auld al - AltLd O/S - May/95

Kev dropped the guide on pitch 3. We got lost!
Jon Read - AltLd O/S - Jul/93 with Kev Turner

took a very long falling slide on p4
Tom V - AltLd - Jun/93 with Glenn Watson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/May/93

rob.grafton - Lead - 24/May/92 with Bruce

innes - AltLd O/S - 1991

graham lawrie - Lead O/S - 1990

David Smith - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 1989

Falko - AltLd O/S - 1985 with Howard Lancashire

Lone Rider - AltLd - 1985

neil3965 - AltLd - Jun/80 with Adam Kassyk

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/80

Chris Craggs - 1980

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 03/Jun/79 with Chris Callow

Pedro50 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/78 with Wil Hurford, Robin Miller

Brilliant climbing, way runout!
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd O/S - May/78 with Alan Walmsley

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Matthew Ferrier, rurp, Edvenables, Alex the Alex, sgl0jd, arose, gurumed, murrayjosep, freudy_love, mikemartin, Ropeboy, climbinmunkey, PeteH, timo.t, Mr Powly, tatz45, French Erick, rob askew, IanJackson

Voting
Total votes cast 104
hard E30 of 37
E30 of 37
easy E31 of 37
hard E23 of 37
E220 of 37
easy E24 of 37
hard E19 of 37
E10 of 37
easy E10 of 37
hard 5c0 of 35
5c0 of 35
easy 5c0 of 35
hard 5b5 of 35
5b27 of 35
easy 5b1 of 35
hard 5a2 of 35
5a0 of 35
easy 5a0 of 35
3 Stars31 of 32
2 Stars1 of 32
1 Star0 of 32
0 Stars0 of 32
Bag of .....0 of 32
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dnf