Derbyshire > Duke's Quarry >
 
Great Crack*** HVS 5a

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[Great Crack is indeed great, 3 kb]Obvious tall crack on the main wall. Start is often slippery.

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Photo: Great Crack is indeed great © Mr. K
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 65 logbooks, and on 26 wishlists.

tgeh - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with dan geh

Great indeed! Very dirty, with a greasy start. Good to get this one done.
Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Thomas Geh

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/13

whitehouse_rhys - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with lyra whitehouse

Greasy at the bottom both in the crack and on the face. Found this bit quite tough
harold walmsley - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/12 with Colin Struthers

Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/11

Last minute idea on the last day of the Indian Summer. V hot & humid, bottom 4M a bit greasy but then awesome climbing all the way to the top. Possibly the best route this year!
marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/11 with Tommo

Hidden - Lead β - 07/Aug/11

Really hard start. Struggled took an hour and half. Colin started the second but gave up after a few minutes. Rob seconded it in just over 5 minutes.
Ultimo Dyno Boy - Lead dog - 22/Jul/11 with Collin, Rob

Climbed with DHcol and Ultimo Dyno Boy who this time took the sharp end, the start was a little damp with not a lot of fiction hence it seemed like a life time for him to get more than 10 feet off the ground, anyway one and a half hours later it was time for DHcol to clean the route, A unenthusiastic attempt at the start and it was back to the ground, complaining “my hands are cold, my hands are COLD” wot it’s the middle of summer?
CrashMat Rob - 2nd β - 22/Jul/11 with Glynn, Colin

Climbed in a thunderstorm. Was down this way and not likely to drive down for one route so thought I better just man up. Even though it was soaking, it made the starting moves a bit trickier. After that, jugs (jams) away.
akhughes - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/11 with Emma Hughes

jtree03 - Lead - 14/May/11 with dazza, Tony, Brother Al

Excellent route, just wish the whole wall was moved to Millstone. Third visit to do it, dry as a bone!
gordonday - Lead O/S - 04/May/11 with Jack

Dirty and chock-full of esoteric WIN! Really glad to finally get this done. =o)
Mr. K - Lead O/S - 04/May/11 with Pete Dollman

jwpil - 2nd O/S - 04/May/11 with Gordon

Not been doing Trad Stuff for a while so this one was a good one to get me head round leading again. you can see the video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jxhmtc2zWE
CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Nicky, Colin

Wow an epic climb for me fell a couple of meters from the start and ended up back on the ground, had a rest then a great battle to get my Lard up it :-) glad I did it tho, it's a stunning line. Nice and dry when we got there.
Dhcol - 2nd dog - 02/May/11 with Niky Willers, Rob Marshall

Definitely a great crack! Hand jams and bomber gear all the way. Admittedly it was uncommonly dry and clean.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with victim of mathematics

Brilliant. In perfect condition at the moment. Almost every hold is a perfect jam. Mmm.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Adam

To retreive Adam's gear.
victim of mathematics - 2nd rpt - 01/May/11 with Adam

bottom section was greasy despite over two weeks of dry weather!
migs493 - 2nd β - 25/Apr/11 with LO

Superb! In great condition due to dry weather. Everybody should do this climb,up there with the best HVS's in the country, must be onsighted to get full impact.
lozowen - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/11

Belay off helpful guy at the crag
Boy - Lead - 23/Apr/11

The damp and greeness made this really hard work and very tenuous.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 10/Apr/11 with Mark Williams

disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 10/Apr/11 with Wee man

Hidden - Lead - 03/Apr/11

great route, although fairly damp today. lots of jamming.
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 29/Oct/10 with Martin Kocsis

Fantastic climb, Hard start, took a bit of working out as it was very slimy slipery to start with. Once past that crux, it was jamming all the way with very nice moves and small ledges just where you want them. Very glad I went out of my way to Duke's Quarry for this climb.
frume - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/10 with Andy Edwards

stephenhartley - 2nd - 02/Aug/10 with Burns

perfect jamming crack! jim slipped and nearly ripped his arm off! can be slippy low down
spidey - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Jimmy

helios - 2nd - 10/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

EXCELLENT the best jaming route in the peak??
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/09 with Paul

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 27/Sep/09 with Nicola Pettit

Helen Gibson - 2nd - 24/Sep/09 with Paul

The climbs in Duke's Quarry are rarely in condition, and they weren't really in condition on this occasion. Couldn't get past a hard jamming move (not really a hand jam or a finger jam) in the slimey lower section, so gave up before I wrecked my hands.
Ant Man Bee - 2nd dnf - 13/Sep/09 with Charles Moreton

cem - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Jenny Andexer, Mark O'Neill, Paul Bolton

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/09 with Sarah

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/09

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

clintos - Lead - 19/Apr/07 with jonny green

A must do, superb jams and moves above the slippery start
Sankey - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Reuben

billiant jamming crack
Sam and will - Lead O/S - 18/May/05 with Anthony Bennett

abbed off afterwards
nickdonohue - Lead - 11/May/03 with Kath Donohue

Peakology - Lead O/S - 2003 with cat

Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - 2003 with Dom

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/01 with Adrian Whitehall

A great, great route!! Did this in the morning, followed by Original Route (High Tor) in the afternoon. A superb day!
Rog Wilko - Lead - Jun/99 with Adrian Perkin

Roget - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/97 with jon

Budge - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/97 with Mike Oates

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 1997

Budge - Lead dog - Aug/96 with Brian Ottewell

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/94

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/94

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/91

Hidden - 1987

sadams - 2nd - 04/May/86 with Mark Bonham

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/85 with Andy Barker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1985

mark-abz - 2nd - Jul/82 with Brian W

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Greza, Hidden, papalazarou, Hidden, mapperley samurai, Ropeboy, Nigel Bond, Alex.M-M., Hidden, joe hallam, Hidden, bigdan050, schristophersmith, markpollak, Dave Mason, kayakmonkey, Jonathan Hall, aulda, Hidden, Hidden, Andy Peak 1, Hidden, Conor1, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 65
hard E10 of 22
E10 of 22
easy E10 of 22
hard HVS0 of 22
HVS15 of 22
easy HVS6 of 22
hard VS1 of 22
VS0 of 22
easy VS0 of 22
hard 5b0 of 22
5b0 of 22
easy 5b0 of 22
hard 5a1 of 22
5a20 of 22
easy 5a1 of 22
hard 4c0 of 22
4c0 of 22
easy 4c0 of 22
3 Stars19 of 21
2 Stars1 of 21
1 Star1 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Lead44 of 65 (67.7%)
Followed20 of 65 (30.8%)
Unknown1 of 65 (1.5%)

'Climbed'20 of 65 (30.8%)
clean O/S34 of 65 (52.3%)
clean β3 of 65 (4.6%)
clean rpt3 of 65 (4.6%)
dogged4 of 65 (6.2%)
dnf1 of 65 (1.5%)