Sector: Wish You Were Here Face
The original line up Mooineok Mountain and the most popular. Easy except for a couple of moves. The Wish You Were Here face has two huge, right-facing dihedrals towards its left and a recessed face bounded by a huge arch on the right. This line goes up the face about midway between the right-hand dihedral and the left-hand side of the arch. There is a broad, grey, water-streak in the middle of this face and the route starts just to the left of this.
1. 12 (20m; 7D) Climb up and traverse to the right past the edge of the cave to a semi-hanging belay.
2. 17 (12m; 7D) Climb straight up the very juggy face to a very small stance - 3 climbers at most.
3. 21 (25m; 11D) Continue straight up to a narrow ledge. This crux pitch can be reduced to about grade 17 by lassoing the eye-bolt with a long sling and aiding up on it.
4. 13 (25m; 7D) Continue up an easy slab to a stance at the right hand side of a huge cave - the Rave Cave.
5. 19 (25m; 10D) Start on top of a boulder near the right hand edge of the cave, reach up and pull through the roof. Climb up tending right to the next set of chains. Climbers following the leader should be kept fairly tight until they have got through the roof as a fall combined with rope-stretch may cause them to deck.
6. 16 (25m; 7D) Climb up tending left and finish through a small bulge near the top. Abseil back down the route. This is a superb and very popular line. During summer start early or mid afternoon to avoid the baking midday heat.
The original line up Mooineok Mountain and the most popular. Easy except for a couple of moves. The Wish You Were Here face has two huge, right-facing dihedrals towards its left and a recessed face bounded by a huge arch on the right. This line goes up the face about midway between the right-hand dihedral and the left-hand side of the arch. There is a broad, grey, water-streak in the middle of this face and the route starts just to the left of this.
1. 12 (20m; 7D) Climb up and traverse to the right past the edge of the cave to a semi-hanging belay.
2. 17 (12m; 7D) Climb straight up the very juggy face to a very small stance - 3 climbers at most.
3. 21 (25m; 11D) Continue straight up to a narrow ledge. This crux pitch can be reduced to about grade 17 by lassoing the eye-bolt with a long sling and aiding up on it.
4. 13 (25m; 7D) Continue up an easy slab to a stance at the right hand side of a huge cave - the Rave Cave.
5. 19 (25m; 10D) Start on top of a boulder near the right hand edge of the cave, reach up and pull through the roof. Climb up tending right to the next set of chains. Climbers following the leader should be kept fairly tight until they have got through the roof as a fall combined with rope-stretch may cause them to deck.
6. 16 (25m; 7D) Climb up tending left and finish through a small bulge near the top. Abseil back down the route. This is a superb and very popular line. During summer start early or mid afternoon to avoid the baking midday heat.
Mike and Ruth Behr 1994.
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Route of Interest
Power pigeon
Grade: 21 ***
(Mount Everest)