Merlone VF3B

Rockfax Description
This is an unusual via ferrata without any real technical difficulties but with a good amount of exposure. The majority of the climbing takes place on steep ladders and thus there isn't a huge amount of contact time with the rock. However, the situations are superb and the panorama from the summit is undoubtedly one of the best in the Dolomites, providing an excellent vantage point to view the Tre Cime.
The approach is long but this does help alleviate some of the traffic, a necessary characteristic as the descent reverses the route and two way ladder traffic can be tedious at best.
Approach - The usual approach is via Rifugio Fonda Savio. The most direct approach to the rifugio is via path 115 from the teleferica car park (see page 439 ).
For a longer but more scenic approach, take the Col de Varda chairlift from the southern end of Lago di Misurina. From the top of the chairlift take path 117 northeast along the Sentiero Bonacossa. This leads uphill on a good path for 10 minutes until you reach a scree gully protected by a wire. Ascend this to reach Forcella Misurina. From here descend the scree gully on the other side with intermittent wire for protection. After 20 minutes you reach a junction with path 118 (possible alternative route off right) but continue on path 117 towards Forcella Diavolo and Rifugio Fonda Savio. Ascend steeply past three ladders and some wire to reach Forcella Diavolo in 20 minutes. This is the start of the South Face via East Face of Torre Leo route and the 'step' between Torre Leo on the left and Torre del Diavolo can clearly be seen. Continue on path 117 descending the scree gully on the opposite (north) side of the Forcella, passing Il Gobbo. When the path splits stay high up on the right to reach Rifugio Fonda Savio in a further 30 minutes.
From Rifugio Fonda Savio, follow path 116 south following signs towards the ferrata. The large rectangular west face of Cima del Cadin soon comes into view. After 25 minutes a small path leads off left through the scree to the start of the ferrata. The path is hard to spot but is marked with occasional cairns. The ladders that make up the bulk of the route are also visible and a good reference point. A large blue arrow directs you to the start of the cable.
VF - The wire first leads over easy ground, left then back right. Shortly you come to a huge ladder. This turns out to be the first of many as you ascend fixed ladder after ladder. These are split by an exposed traverse left at mid height, with a fixed wooden board kindly placed for assistance. As you surmount the final ladder a slightly loose but easy couloir leads to the summit and spectacular views.
Descent - From the summit, reverse the route back down to the valley floor and Rifugio Fonda Savio. Then descend path 115 to the car park at the base of Rifugio Fonda Savio's teleferica (goods lift). For parties who ascended using the Col de Varda chairlift and path 117 continue down the road from the car park until you reach the private road up to the Tre Cime. Descend this to Ristorante La Baita and the campsite. From here a lovely path leads around the east side of Lago di Misurina back to the chairlift car park. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Quite a steep VF for the grade.


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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 9 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/15

Simon Pelly - 06/Sep/14

Hidden - 01/Aug/14

Hidden - 27/Aug/13

this VF leads from the dramaticaly situated fonda-savio hut up a nearby summit with spectacular views. It pretty much follows a line of ladders up steep rock with some easy scrambling at the top.
brianrunner - Solo - 19/Sep/10 with martina

Hidden - 18/Jul/08

Misur 7, Cicerone Via Ferratas Italian Dolomites vol 1
andy tetsill - Aug/06

Hidden - 13/Jul/06

sam coward - Aug/03 with Helen

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