Moray > Hell's Lum >
 
Clean Sweep*** VS 4c

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[Weather closing in on parties on Clean Sweep and Hellfire, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Robin Smith Legacy, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission.

Photo: Weather closing in on parties on Clean Sweep and Hellfire © alan moore
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 142 logbooks, and on 93 wishlists.

led pitches 2 and 4, joe merged pitches 5 & 6
CaelanB - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/14 with Joe Barlow

Lead pitches 1, 3 and 5. Pitch 2 was very wet. Overall a well deserved 3 stars.
Alastair MacSween - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/14 with Phil Warriner

http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/09/clean-sweep-snatching-last-of-summer.html
Samuel Wainwright - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/14 with Dave

Nemo9 - AltLd - 02/Sep/14 with Sam

Midges. Never very hard, pitch 3 was good, so many holds everywhere, some hidden. Classic rock grade of HS seems more appropriate!
Mark D - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14 with Dave Duggan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14

Pitches 1,3 and 4 utterly superb! Pitch 3 was very sustained but well protected. Did this and Auld Nick before the rain hit!
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Ben, Richard Hines

Rickrick - AltLd - 26/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14

Nigel Bond - Lead - 22/Jul/14 with Colin Hutton

Half of the 1st pitch still covered in snow. Bet wet in places but still a fantastic route!
Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14

mjackson - 17/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/13

Third time for me, first being fifteen? years ago. Still as good as ever though.
John Workman - Lead - 10/Aug/13 with Apprentice

Rained off 3rd pitch.
cam1401 - AltLd dnf - 10/Aug/13 with Andy O

ChristineR - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with ieuan, seamus

Wow. Started off too late and had a wee bit of an epic. Topped out at 1 am after dropping my belay device, going off route, only having one headtorch (which broke, dur), leading every pitch, and considering sleeping on the ledge 10 meters from the top. Stunning starry sky, after getting back to the car at 3am mother nature decided to reward our efforts with some northern lights. Not a climb I'm going to forget soon. For anyone reading the guidbook when it says traverse and follow a wandering route for 25 meters as the second last pitch, this means traverse only to the nose to the right of you and then go straight up. Don't keep traversing unless you can lead E1!
Shea - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Christine, Ieuan

Topped out at 1am..... a lot of loose rock on pitch 2. Think we traversed too far right on the penultimate pitch. Ended up on the wrong "grassy ledge" which added another pitch to reach the summit. Saw the northern lights when walking off.
ieuanr - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Christine, Seamus

A bit wet and windy, but fantastic climb. No one else to be seen.
planetmarshall - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/13 with James Jackson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/13

BallsOfSteel - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with steve peatfield

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jul/13

guy757 - 11/Jul/13

donas - AltLd - 09/Jul/13

Mapleleaf - AltLd - 07/Jul/13 with Jim Hall

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jul/13

SUColdo - AltLd - Jul/13 with DStrawbridge

Josiemc - AltLd O/S - Jul/13

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Luke, Anna

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

TheAndyBarker - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 06/Sep/12

Drmikew - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12

A southerly gale roared through the Cairngorms and held off the rain for a few hours. A good route, awkward in places and very classic.
alan moore - AltLd - Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Aug/12

Led pitches 1,2 & 5. Pitch 2 very wet, so followed different line.
barney_edin - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Mehmet

Led odd pitches including the awesome pitch 3. Pitch one is very thin and a bit challenging for the short. A few seeps but nothing affecting the route.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Mike

Lead 2 & 4 Pitch 1 high in the grade, a good lead by Fiona.
Mike_Watson_99 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Fiona

morsy - AltLd - 11/Aug/12 with peter berwick

Pete23 - AltLd - 11/Aug/12 with Stephen Mors

Led P3&4. Pitch 3 awesome.
PeteLoveless - AltLd rpt - 11/Aug/12 with Ben Gibson

Lead pitches 1,2 & 5. Great wee route.
Gibson27 - AltLd O/S - Aug/12

SnowdonGypsy - Aug/12

1st pitch felt fairly run out, and the 3rd pretty hard for VS. Went off route for the top to pitches onto very rotten rock! Only the second pitch was wet, but that could be avoided.
Laurence Cowton - AltLd - 28/Jul/12 with Job

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/12

TheAndyBarker - 2012

TheAndyBarker - 2012

Patzl - 2012

Patzl - 2012

Patzl - 2012

matt perks - 2012

Lead P2 & P4. Great route in stunning weather, was even getting nibbled by midges there was so little wind. P3 is probably the best pitch I had climbed so far.
telemarker - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Paul Freudenthal

The corner/crack pitch (3rd) is one of the best pitches of climbing you will ever do!
freudy_love - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Stewart Munro

piss wet. a snorkel and wet suit would have been good!
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd dnf - 13/Jul/11 with pete

led even pitches, jr the odd pitches.
nowler - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with JR

I led P1,2,5, Jon 3&4
PeteLoveless - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with jon

t_stork - AltLd - 02/Jul/11 with Anna Wells

Anna_wells - AltLd - 02/Jul/11 with Tom _ Stork

jsrous - 02/Jul/11 with Pete L

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/11

erinbastian - AltLd - 29/Apr/11

brianrunner - 2011

Hidden - 2011

WilliamBurnside - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Wet and damp, very tough for the grade given the conditions. 1st pitch, bold had to start up the slab to the right. 3rd pitch the crux and was very wet. 4th pitch was difficult to route find and also seemed harder than 4b. A classic in a great location.
cuthill76 - Lead - 28/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

newtonmore - 2010

thought this was a tough mountain VS, 1st pitch is bold and the 3rd is very sustained, take plenty of quickdraws for this one, i ran out on pitch 3.
Chris wilson - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Allan

Great route. Nice and dry for us, thought the first pitch where it goes up the centre of the pillar was a bit pokey for VS, particuarly if you do not have small friends.
Shaw Brown - Lead - 21/Sep/09 with Loz

Pretty sustained 3rd pitch, nice
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Al Goodridge, Jamie Wilson

Bit drizzly while we were climbing, but good climbing on the 3rd pitch.
kevg - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Pete M

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/09

Stunning route, Definately ***
auchtubhmor1 - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/09

Pess wet thru - throughout.Pitch 3 is like Apollo Creed: just keeps hitting you over and over again, rightly the crux, despite the technical 5a-ish demands of pitch 1. Had Anvil's Metal on Metal in my head for the whole climb: Fiercely fantastic!
jimorothy - AltLd - 10/Sep/09 with Rachel Crolla

Making up my own 2nd pitch. Good 5a worth of slab climbing. More interesting than the 4b way. Neil wasn't so keen on slab. I love it. The granite has superb friction.
Skinny Kin - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Neil Morbey

P4 is harder than 4b, the start over the bulges is quite bold. Good gear tho, nice route - not sure if it is deserved of 3 stars (2 more like). The crux crack and fault of p3 are excellent.
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Dan

Top route. Fantastic day out.
HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Liz

Good climb. 1st and 3rd pitches are 2 star. These pitches seemed hard for the grade, with somewhat awkward moves but very enjoyable. The rest of the pitches are a bit dirty. Route finding is difficult, especially the 4th pitch. On pitch 4 trend right as much as possible, taking the easiest line. Descent is a walk off.
dgray455 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Simon_d

liz-264 - AltLd - 05/Jul/09 with Hightower

chapmand - AltLd - 03/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jun/09

"prone to seepage"! pitch 2 and 3 very wet indeed but all very good. led 1,3,5.
tomdude - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with lawrence

wence - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Tom

Bailed 1 pitch from the top, as the route became a waterfall
Jamie Simpson - 2009 with Nick Collins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/08

First pitch was banked out with snow, 2nd pitch was a bit wet but pitches 3 & 4 were lovely!
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 31/May/08 with Christian L

Hidden - 2008

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Bob Makison

tallthinmonkey - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/07 with Paul Raistrick

Led pitches 2,4; 2,5 were wet. 3 has to be one of the best pitches I've climbed and 4 was pretty exceptional to, a route well deserving the title classic!
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Neil Mackenzie

did on typical grey wet 'gorms day.... led pitch 1, 3 (one of the best individual pitchs ive led!!) and 5. lots of water on route makin it all the more exciting!
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Andy

Fairly easy for the grade. A very enjoyable route despite seepage today.
RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Charlie Hill

timmy-ts - 2007

timmy-ts - 2007

richardlong78 - Lead - 2007

Captain Solo - AltLd - 15/Oct/06 with Jim Moseley

steev - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Jo B

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Stuart Shaw

Steve Lenartowicz - 2005 with John N

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/04

abbeywall - AltLd - Jun/04 with D Cassidy, K

morbh - AltLd - 24/Aug/03 with Colin & Sandy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/03

Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/03 with Luisa Giles

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jun/03

Very good route indeed.
Jamie B - AltLd - Jun/03 with Graham Foster

wildrover220 - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/01 with Brian McReadie

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jun/01

Chad123 - 2000

graeme gatherer - 2000

Lone Rider - 2000

Richard Weller - Lead - 11/Jul/99 with Nick Cruden

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 30/Aug/98 with Jenny Kerr

Led 1,3&5
Iain Thow - AltLd - 26/Sep/97 with Liz Jolley

lead pitch 1 & 3
colin milton - AltLd RP - 23/Aug/96 with eric milton

GordyB - 1996

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Aug/95

Yourlead - AltLd - 23/Jun/95 with Graham Penny

Hidden - AltLd - 1994

CMacD - 1993

kp64zl - AltLd - Aug/91

stuart100 - Lead O/S - Jun/88 with Pete Goodwin

mark-abz - Lead - 12/Aug/84 with Liam M

Hidden - AltLd - 1983

Hidden - Lead - 1979

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Voting
Total votes cast 130
hard HVS0 of 44
HVS0 of 44
easy HVS0 of 44
hard VS28 of 44
VS16 of 44
easy VS0 of 44
hard HS0 of 44
HS0 of 44
easy HS0 of 44
hard 5a0 of 45
5a1 of 45
easy 5a5 of 45
hard 4c25 of 45
4c14 of 45
easy 4c0 of 45
hard 4b0 of 45
4b0 of 45
easy 4b0 of 45
3 Stars38 of 41
2 Stars3 of 41
1 Star0 of 41
0 Stars0 of 41
Bag of .....0 of 41
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Style of ascent

Lead18 of 142 (12.7%)
Followed2 of 142 (1.4%)
Alt Leads87 of 142 (61.3%)
Unknown35 of 142 (24.6%)

'Climbed'78 of 142 (54.9%)
clean O/S59 of 142 (41.5%)
clean rpt1 of 142 (0.7%)
clean RP1 of 142 (0.7%)
dnf3 of 142 (2.1%)