|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Ian Jones||04/Oct||AltLd O/S||
Fairly fucking awful. Slabby and sketchy with grass and wetness. Pitch 1 HVS 5a *. Pitch 2 Bag of...... Pitch 2 hard ** Pitch 3 pleasant * Pitch 4 pleasant.
Stephen Holmes, Tim Elson
Lead pitch 3 as a party of 3. Really quite a nice route, worth 2 stars for the climbing IMO with a brilliant aspect. Pitch 3 is awesome, the only cairngroms granite pitch I've done that's better is scabbard pitch 2. Everything was dry bar a few avoidable minor seeps on pitch 1 and 2 and the turf which also could be avoided in the main.
|dave o||03/Oct||Lead O/S||
Nice. Crackin 3rd pitch
Gorgeous summer day at the start of October. Route was dry.
Lead P1, P3 and P5. Great climb.
Crag still very wet. I led first, third and fifth pitches. First half of first was still under snow. The move onto the whaleback was hard due to wet rock. 2nd pitch was very very wet. 3rd and crux pitch started dry but got wetter until running water at the steepest point! Was hard in these conditions but the gear is excellent. Last two pitches were drier. Last pitch gear becomes thin. Not sure we enjoyed it and would be good to do it in the dry! At least it wasn't raining....much.
led pitches 2 and 4, joe merged pitches 5 & 6
|Alastair MacSween||02/Sep/14||AltLd O/S||
Lead pitches 1, 3 and 5. Pitch 2 was very wet. Overall a well deserved 3 stars.
|Samuel Wainwright||02/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
|Mark D||28/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
Midges. Never very hard, pitch 3 was good, so many holds everywhere, some hidden. Classic rock grade of HS seems more appropriate!
Pitches 1,3 and 4 utterly superb! Pitch 3 was very sustained but well protected. Did this and Auld Nick before the rain hit!
Ben, Richard Hines
|Graham Westbrook||17/Jun/14||Lead O/S||
Half of the 1st pitch still covered in snow. Bet wet in places but still a fantastic route!
Third time for me, first being fifteen? years ago. Still as good as ever though.
Wow. Started off too late and had a wee bit of an epic. Topped out at 1 am after dropping my belay device, going off route, only having one headtorch (which broke, dur), leading every pitch, and considering sleeping on the ledge 10 meters from the top. Stunning starry sky, after getting back to the car at 3am mother nature decided to reward our efforts with some northern lights. Not a climb I'm going to forget soon. For anyone reading the guidbook when it says traverse and follow a wandering route for 25 meters as the second last pitch, this means traverse only to the nose to the right of you and then go straight up. Don't keep traversing unless you can lead E1!
Topped out at 1am..... a lot of loose rock on pitch 2. Think we traversed too far right on the penultimate pitch. Ended up on the wrong "grassy ledge" which added another pitch to reach the summit. Saw the northern lights when walking off.
A bit wet and windy, but fantastic climb. No one else to be seen.
A southerly gale roared through the Cairngorms and held off the rain for a few hours. A good route, awkward in places and very classic.
Led pitches 1,2 & 5. Pitch 2 very wet, so followed different line.
|Fiona Reid||11/Aug/12||AltLd O/S||
Led odd pitches including the awesome pitch 3. Pitch one is very thin and a bit challenging for the short. A few seeps but nothing affecting the route.
Lead 2 & 4 Pitch 1 high in the grade, a good lead by Fiona.
Led P3&4. Pitch 3 awesome.
Lead pitches 1,2 & 5. Great wee route.
1st pitch felt fairly run out, and the 3rd pretty hard for VS. Went off route for the top to pitches onto very rotten rock! Only the second pitch was wet, but that could be avoided.
|Steven Carter||??/2012||Lead O/S|
Lead P2 & P4. Great route in stunning weather, was even getting nibbled by midges there was so little wind. P3 is probably the best pitch I had climbed so far.
The corner/crack pitch (3rd) is one of the best pitches of climbing you will ever do!
piss wet. a snorkel and wet suit would have been good!
led even pitches, jr the odd pitches.
I led P1,2,5, Jon 3&4
Tom _ Stork
Wet and damp, very tough for the grade given the conditions. 1st pitch, bold had to start up the slab to the right. 3rd pitch the crux and was very wet. 4th pitch was difficult to route find and also seemed harder than 4b. A classic in a great location.
Great route. Nice and dry for us, thought the first pitch where it goes up the centre of the pillar was a bit pokey for VS, particuarly if you do not have small friends.
|Lawrie Brand||20/Sep/09||AltLd O/S||
Pretty sustained 3rd pitch, nice
Al Goodridge, Jamie Wilson
Bit drizzly while we were climbing, but good climbing on the 3rd pitch.
Stunning route, Definately ***
Pess wet thru - throughout.Pitch 3 is like Apollo Creed: just keeps hitting you over and over again, rightly the crux, despite the technical 5a-ish demands of pitch 1. Had Anvil's Metal on Metal in my head for the whole climb: Fiercely fantastic!
|Skinny Kin||08/Aug/09||AltLd O/S||
Making up my own 2nd pitch. Good 5a worth of slab climbing. More interesting than the 4b way. Neil wasn't so keen on slab. I love it. The granite has superb friction.
P4 is harder than 4b, the start over the bulges is quite bold. Good gear tho, nice route - not sure if it is deserved of 3 stars (2 more like). The crux crack and fault of p3 are excellent.
Top route. Fantastic day out.
Good climb. 1st and 3rd pitches are 2 star. These pitches seemed hard for the grade, with somewhat awkward moves but very enjoyable. The rest of the pitches are a bit dirty. Route finding is difficult, especially the 4th pitch. On pitch 4 trend right as much as possible, taking the easiest line. Descent is a walk off.
"prone to seepage"! pitch 2 and 3 very wet indeed but all very good. led 1,3,5.
Bailed 1 pitch from the top, as the route became a waterfall
|Neil Adams||31/May/08||AltLd O/S||
First pitch was banked out with snow, 2nd pitch was a bit wet but pitches 3 & 4 were lovely!
Led pitches 2,4; 2,5 were wet. 3 has to be one of the best pitches I've climbed and 4 was pretty exceptional to, a route well deserving the title classic!
|Neil Mackenzie||08/Sep/07||AltLd O/S||
did on typical grey wet 'gorms day.... led pitch 1, 3 (one of the best individual pitchs ive led!!) and 5. lots of water on route makin it all the more exciting!
Fairly easy for the grade. A very enjoyable route despite seepage today.
|Chris L Hill||?/Jul/05||AltLd O/S||
D Cassidy, K
Colin & Sandy
|Smelly Fox||24/Jun/03||AltLd O/S||
Very good route indeed.
|colin milton||23/Aug/96||AltLd RP||
lead pitch 1 & 3