East Face** V
[Midi South-East Face, 2 kb]200m, 6 pitches. Pitches of 5, 4+, 4-, roof at A0, then 5, 4-, 5, 3+. In situ bolts and belays mean that the route can be abseiled and bags left at the bottom as an alternative to finishing up cosmiques arete. Care must be taken with the live power lines which provide 15,000v to/from the telepherique.
Chavasse/Leroux Jul/1971

Photo: Midi South-East Face © chris m fisher
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This climb is in 19 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Fluffed leading the crux clean. Great climbing that goes on and one. Finished up the cosmiques arete
DigitalSteak - AltLd - 06/Jul/14

Had to frig the roof move by pulling on the gear. Other than than that fantastic granite climbing. Really good jamming crack halfway up.
johnmctighe - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/14

HansStuttgart - Sep/13

jcw - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/10

Took a while to figure out the line but it made sense once we were on it. Did the route in big boots, which at least made the sac lighter. V + A0, probably VS/HVS if climbing in rock shoes and without a sac, apart from the roof, which is probably somewhat harder than E3 (on the basis that it looked harder than I could have managed). Topped out at 4pm after 7 hours on the route. This left a couple of hours till the last cable car, so decided to finish up the Cosmiques rather than abseiling down, particularly as only had one rope. We had forgotten just how long the Cosmiques is... Took us best part of two hours to finish it and we only pitched the crux. Got to the cable station platform with about five minutes to go only to find that the door had already been locked! A precarious traverse across a wooden roof and a climb down a snow slope got us to another bit of the station but the door there had also been locked... At least we were now just round the corner from the exit arete, so abbed off a walkway onto rubble and climbed about 10 metres up the side of the arete to get to the ice cave - only to be informed by a couple of station staff who were working overnight that the very last lift had left a couple of minutes earlier! At least they gave us the number for the Cosmiques Hut to check if they had places, which fortunately they did. A walk to the hut in very poor visibility finished off what should have been an easy day. Got the lift down the following morning. At least good for acclimatisation!
Misha - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/10 with Dave Commins

Petarghh - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/10

Tobias at Home - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/09

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 05/Aug/08 with Quiet Ian

Brian Birtle - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/06 with Miss Steph

Felt hard, for the grade. i think it is A0 to keep it at 5.
Valdres Fjellguider - AltLd O/S - Jul/04 with Andy Munro

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/86

Richard Weller - 03/Jul/86 with john sanders

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Total votes cast 7
hard V+0 of 1
V+0 of 1
easy V+0 of 1
hard V0 of 1
V1 of 1
easy V0 of 1
hard V-0 of 1
V-0 of 1
easy V-0 of 1
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