200m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 120m. A less travelled route than the others described here but a very worthwhile outing, the East Face makes for a good alternative when the more famous routes of the area are busy. Start at the bergschrund of the snow slope immediately right of the Éperon des Cosmiques. This snow slope is directly below the abseils of the Arête des Cosmiques and there is often some rockfall danger (both natural and man made) so it's a good idea to climb the first pitch in big boots and then change into rock shoes before pitch 2, just to minimise time spent in the line of fire! Start 3m right of the rusty old ladder.
1) 4b, 15m. From the bergschrund, climb diagonally up and left across straightforward blocky ground to reach a belay 5m below an electricity pylon (with tens of thousands of volts running through it powering the Midi cable car), beneath a right-leaning corner and crack.
2) 4b, 30m. Follow the corner and crack via some excellent moderate climbing to a ledge below a roof.
3) 5c/A0, 20m. Climb the overhanging roof using direct aid on bolts. If the bolts have been removed (as they are sporadically) there is a large, helpful crack and even those lacking in aid climbing experience should be able to get through this section with a few cams, slings and plenty of determination. Above the overhang, the crack continues with some difficulty to a ledge beneath another roof.
4) 5b, 30m. Move left for 2m before climbing the stunning right-leaning corner with increasing difficulty to reach a deep notch, close to the summit of the Éperon.
5) 4a, 20m. Climb the ramp leading up and left to the top of the Éperon and from here, either abseil the route (watch out for the power cables...) or scramble up to join the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitches of 5, 4+, 4-, roof at A0, then 5, 4-, 5, 3+. In situ bolts and belays mean that the route can be abseiled and bags left at the bottom as an alternative to finishing up cosmiques arete. Care must be taken with the live power lines which provide 15,000v to/from the telepherique.

Chavasse/Leroux Jul/1971


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 27/Jun AltLd O/S
JessWilliams 22/Aug/15 2nd
OliverRoss 22/Aug/15 Lead
JohnHartley ?/Jul/15 -
DigitalSteak 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
johnmctighe 12/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Had to frig the roof move by pulling on the gear. Other than than that fantastic granite climbing. Really good jamming crack halfway up.

HansStuttgart ?/Sep/13 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden 13/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 13/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/10 2nd
Misha 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Took a while to figure out the line but it made sense once we were on it. Did the route in big boots, which at least made the sac lighter. V + A0, probably VS/HVS if climbing in rock shoes and without a sac, apart from the roof, which is probably somewhat harder than E3 (on the basis that it looked harder than I could have managed). Topped out at 4pm after 7 hours on the route. This left a couple of hours till the last cable car, so decided to finish up the Cosmiques rather than abseiling down, particularly as only had one rope. We had forgotten just how long the Cosmiques is... Took us best part of two hours to finish it and we only pitched the crux. Got to the cable station platform with about five minutes to go only to find that the door had already been locked! A precarious traverse across a wooden roof and a climb down a snow slope got us to another bit of the station but the door there had also been locked... At least we were now just round the corner from the exit arete, so abbed off a walkway onto rubble and climbed about 10 metres up the side of the arete to get to the ice cave - only to be informed by a couple of station staff who were working overnight that the very last lift had left a couple of minutes earlier! At least they gave us the number for the Cosmiques Hut to check if they had places, which fortunately they did. A walk to the hut in very poor visibility finished off what should have been an easy day. Got the lift down the following morning. At least good for acclimatisation!

with Dave Commins
Petarghh 04/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd
Tobias at Home ??/2010 -
Hidden 04/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
MoWalker3 05/Aug/08 AltLd
with Quiet Ian
Brian Birtle 12/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Miss Steph
Jamie Simpson ?/Jul/04 AltLd O/S

Felt hard, for the grade. i think it is A0 to keep it at 5.

with Andy Munro
Hidden 06/Aug/86 AltLd O/S
Richard Weller 03/Jul/86 -
with john sanders
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Steve33, Hidden
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