450m. At the foot of the south face where two routes start you can see a prominant couloir leading up the face. Start climbing up this normally snow free couloir and immediately turn left across a system of ledges for 200m. Over these ledges protection can be found from the odd bolt and from putting slings over pillars of rock. It is possible to move together here.

Where the ledges end ascend up and to the right up easy ground before turning left again to reach the ridge below a large gendarme which looks like a double headed hammer. It may be necessary to pitch the last move onto the ridge. On the ridge continue up and then alond a ledge on the south west face to a diedre. Climb a crack on the back (IV, 4m) and then a chimney above (III). Further up the wall is a vertical wall (V+, 3m) which can be bypassed by a very exposed crack on the left ((IV). It may be necessary to aid climb this wall. Rocky ridge leads then to the summit. 4 and a half hr from hut.

Bruhl, Valluet, Ravanel and Belin 02/Sep/1928

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.


ClimberDateStyle
Tim Sparrow 13/Aug/15 -

Moved together in big boots for all except 3 harder sections. Descent down S face with a few abs. Axe dropped into schrund ... But retrieved!

with Geoff Thomas
Rob84 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Gets D in our guide which felt fair, given the long moving together approach section and the corner pitches being 'proper' climbing in places. Great route with great quality rock all the way, even on the easier sections where you would normally expect at least a bit of choss. Also longer than the height gain might lead you to believe as there's a fair bit of weaving around and traversing. Views from the summit have to be some of the best in the range

with Mel
JonHarvey ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Auld Giffer ?/Aug/15 -
Mark Salter 10/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Chris Shorrock
derryclimbs 04/Jul/15 AltLd

Fantastic route up. stashed gear and moved really fast in rock shoes all the way up. Easy route finding as per the guidebook. 4 hours to summit. Descent via normal route via cairns proved a little tricky, but would be much worse in less perfect conditions.

JackM92 12/Jun/15 -

Harder than expected. Cold, snowing and generally unpleasent, slabby descent covered in poor quality snow so abselied off.

alexm198 12/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Guidebook time of 4.5 hours to the summit is pretty ambitious. Moved together until the first tricky sections above the hammer on the ridge. Cruxes on ridge were hard in boots. Descent from summit is complex and was covered in big patches of snow. Bits of down climbing interspersed with about 8x30m abseils on tat of varying quality, the last of which put us IN the schrund. Ah, alpinism.

Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 18/Aug/14 -
Rumbo 08/Aug/14 AltLd

Slow enough to find an impressive thunderstorm waiting at the top, which obliged us to abseil quite a bit of the descent route.

with Dougle
Hidden 25/Jul/14 AltLd
jimmatthews 25/Jul/14 AltLd

Decended via South Face (Normal Route)

jogle03 16/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 01/Oct/13 -
Palindrome 28/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
mrmattwright 11/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Comfortably outside guidebook time, again. Amazing route and relatively straightfowards ascent. Descent is quite difficult, with some hard route finding. Started snowing on the last 2 abseils, and 20 cm in the hut over night so pretty damn pleased we did not get stuck on the route. The ladders down from the hut in the pissing rain were.....spicy.

with Adrian Fletcher
Jim Brownlow 15/Aug/12 AltLd
with Nigel Edley, Iain Mount
Nigel Edley 15/Aug/12 AltLd
caradoc 06/Aug/12 AltLd

Enjoyable route finding, great positions. Switched to rock boots on pitch 3. Descent down normal route confusing, should have gone left at 'the table' not right towards the horrible couloir.

with john b
AlexxelA 02/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Amazing route, but we reckoned it to be harder than AD- Descent down the normal route took careful routefinding, the cairns are not all trustworthy!

Hidden 12/Jul/12 Lead
gravity 12/Jul/12 AltLd dnf
with Ian Lau, Yvonne, Manik
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/11 -
Hidden 23/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Binder 23/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Excellent first AD route.

with Chris L
NB Pixel 23/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with JT
AdamCB ?/Aug/11 -

With Rick and Tim

Hidden 12/Jul/11 -
Kirill 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/10 -
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
JdotP 13/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Awesome route! Mainly moved together. Climbed as 2 ropes of 2 then abseiled together down the south face.

with Tom Barraclough, Luke Dangerfield, Nicholas Dominelli Whiteley
Diggler 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with jonah
Nic DW ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Great route though slow on the descent. Climbed on a rope with Tom B just behind John P and Rob.

with Tom B
Roberttaylor ??/2009 AltLd O/S

Amazing route, with John. Pulled on a hex for the toughest pitch.

Hidden ?/Sep/08 AltLd dnf
david0811 03/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Mark Reid
hamish2016 ?/Jul/08 AltLd

had to run all the way down the mer de glace (and down to Chamonix since we missed the last train) and drive richard to the airport so he didnt miss his flight home.

with chris burn, Richard Hirons
SWalls ?/Jun/08 -
Hidden 03/Sep/06 AltLd
Hidden 30/Jul/06 AltLd
tom.e 13/Jul/06 -

Harder than expected, tricky moves in big boots.

with Charlie Everett
chrissloan84 ?/Jul/05 -
clams ??/2005 -

With Ben and Liam

with AD
Hidden ?/Jul/03 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jun/03 AltLd
Les Ross ?/Jul/00 AltLd
with Anthony Garvey
innes ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with Jim
butteredfrog ??/1998 -
auld al ?/Jul/95 -
Hidden ??/1991 -
Hidden 24/Aug/80 Lead
Mike C ?/Jul/79 AltLd
with Pete Vallely
Bolt Phobia ?/Jul/75 -
Nigel Bond 29/Aug/74 Lead

Time 5hrs we left ice axe and crampons at the start of the rock climb great route

with Dave Jolliffe
Rob Davies ?/Aug/74 AltLd

Called SW Ridge in guidebook

with Joseph Cullen (ICMC)
uphillnow ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Raymondo, Hidden, buffalo606, Punter S Thompson, Hidden, Hidden, Ronan O Keeffe, Sankey, Hidden
Voting
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set