South Ridge** AD-
[Mer de Glace below the A. Moine, 2 kb]450m. At the foot of the south face where two routes start you can see a prominant couloir leading up the face. Start climbing up this normally snow free couloir and immediately turn left across a system of ledges for 200m. Over these ledges protection can be found from the odd bolt and from putting slings over pillars of rock. It is possible to move together here.

Where the ledges end ascend up and to the right up easy ground before turning left again to reach the ridge below a large gendarme which looks like a double headed hammer. It may be necessary to pitch the last move onto the ridge. On the ridge continue up and then alond a ledge on the south west face to a diedre. Climb a crack on the back (IV, 4m) and then a chimney above (III). Further up the wall is a vertical wall (V+, 3m) which can be bypassed by a very exposed crack on the left ((IV). It may be necessary to aid climb this wall. Rocky ridge leads then to the summit. 4 and a half hr from hut.
Bruhl, Valluet, Ravanel and Belin 02/Sep/1928

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Photo: Mer de Glace below the A. Moine © caradoc
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This climb is in 51 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - 18/Aug/14

Slow enough to find an impressive thunderstorm waiting at the top, which obliged us to abseil quite a bit of the descent route.
Rumbo - AltLd - 08/Aug/14 with Dougle

A good route, the ledges linking the start and the Ridge were a bit lower than I expected.
chris687 - AltLd - 25/Jul/14 with james matthews

Decended via South Face (Normal Route)
jimmatthews - AltLd - 25/Jul/14 with Chris Andrews

jogle03 - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/14

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 01/Oct/13

Palindrome - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/13

Tobias at Home - 2013

Comfortably outside guidebook time, again. Amazing route and relatively straightfowards ascent. Descent is quite difficult, with some hard route finding. Started snowing on the last 2 abseils, and 20 cm in the hut over night so pretty damn pleased we did not get stuck on the route. The ladders down from the hut in the pissing rain were.....spicy.
mrmattwright - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/12 with Adrian Fletcher

Jim Brownlow - AltLd - 15/Aug/12 with Nigel Edley, Iain Mount

Enjoyable route finding, great positions. Switched to rock boots on pitch 3. Descent down normal route confusing, should have gone left at 'the table' not right towards the horrible couloir.
caradoc - AltLd - 06/Aug/12 with john b

Amazing route, but we reckoned it to be harder than AD- Descent down the normal route took careful routefinding, the cairns are not all trustworthy!
AlexxelA - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jul/12

gravity - AltLd dnf - 12/Jul/12 with Ian Lau, Yvonne, Manik

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 15/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11

Excellent first AD route.
Binder - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Chris L

NB Pixel - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with JT

With Rick and Tim
AdamCB - Aug/11

Hidden - 12/Jul/11

Kirill - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - 10/Aug/10

Guy Wilson - 2010

Awesome route! Mainly moved together. Climbed as 2 ropes of 2 then abseiled together down the south face.
JdotP - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/09 with Tom Barraclough, Luke Dangerfield, Nicholas Dominelli Whiteley

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with jonah

Great route though slow on the descent. Climbed on a rope with Tom B just behind John P and Rob.
Nic DW - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Tom B

Amazing route, with John. Pulled on a hex for the toughest pitch.
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 2009 with John Proctor

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Sep/08

david0811 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/08 with Mark Reid

had to run all the way down the mer de glace (and down to Chamonix since we missed the last train) and drive richard to the airport so he didnt miss his flight home.
HamishD - AltLd - Jul/08 with chris burn, Richard Hirons

Hidden - Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jul/06

Harder than expected, tricky moves in big boots.
tom.e - 13/Jul/06 with Charlie Everett

chrissloan84 - Jul/05

With Ben and Liam
clams - 2005 with AD

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/03

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/03

Les Ross - AltLd - Jul/00 with Anthony Garvey

innes - AltLd O/S - Aug/99 with Jim

butteredfrog - 1998

auld al - Jul/95

PeteCheung - 1986 with Alan

Hidden - Lead - 24/Aug/80

Mike C - AltLd - Jul/79 with Pete Vallely

Bolt Phobia - Jul/75

Time 5hrs we left ice axe and crampons at the start of the rock climb great route
Nigel Bond - Lead - 29/Aug/74 with Dave Jolliffe

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
buffalo606, Punter S Thompson, dannyW, Ronan O Keeffe, Sankey

Total votes cast 13
hard AD1 of 4
AD2 of 4
easy AD1 of 4
hard AD-0 of 4
AD-0 of 4
easy AD-0 of 4
hard PD+0 of 4
PD+0 of 4
easy PD+0 of 4
3 Stars1 of 9
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Style of ascent
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