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Fabrikkfossen*** WI3

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[Tired Tristan following up on Fabrikkfossen, Rjukan, 2 kb]7 pitches. Seven pitches. The wide waterfall behind Hydro Gas. The first five pitches are easy ice climbing (grade 2) and it is possible to abseil off from here. This makes the waterfall a possibility for less experienced ice climbers. The two last pitches are considerably steeper. Descend by abseiling from trees. © ROCKFAX
Jon Haukassveen, Jesse Nazareno 1992

Photo: Tired Tristan following up on Fabrikkfossen, Rjukan © Peter Darch
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 132 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Climbed as a 3. Loads of snow, good fun abseiling back down in the dark!
bonoid - 2nd - 18/Jan/14

Late start after having to break trail through waist deep powder to get to the start. Got up to the part where it narrows down and then abbed off to get back before nightfall. Powder was neck deep in places - avoid this one after heavy snowfall!
alexm198 - AltLd dnf - 17/Jan/14 with Simon Smith

mark32 - AltLd - Mar/13

SPD224 - AltLd - 25/Feb/13 with Andy Bunnage

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/13

Ryan M Wilson - Lead - 20/Feb/13

edmitchell - Lead rpt - 19/Feb/13 with Emma Rowe

emmarowe - 2nd - 19/Feb/13 with ed mitchell

8 pitches for us on short ropes, took 10 hours up and down, excellent fun despite ed throwing half our ice screws back down....
Sam Husband - AltLd - 09/Feb/13 with Ed

So much fun, descent through woods in the dark. Climbed 10-4, back to the car 1930.
Edward Hastrop - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/13 with Sam Husband

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Feb/13

Ran out of light so abbed off before WI3 pitches. Quite snowy, slightly sketch ice. Took a long time with three...
tallphil - 2nd O/S - 04/Feb/13 with Dom Koole, Pete Robinson

Stopped a bit early because we ran out of light.
pete1185 - AltLd - 04/Feb/13 with Dom Koole, Phil Ewels

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/Jan/13

Started in dark, finished in dark. Good route, nice ledges to belay from. Best to be able to do 60m abseils.
bengeldeard - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/13

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 31/Dec/12

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 31/Dec/12

Al lead most of the day with a slip!!! I lead 1 small pitch as did Russ
marcusmarcus1 - 2nd dog - 08/Mar/12 with Al Hadnett, Russ Reid

The Green Giant - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/12 with Dan with the van

quality route, block of ice fell on wrist as base of pitch 5. suspected break, had to retreat. First time used abalakov threads!!
Tom Redmond - Lead dnf - 08/Mar/12 with luke dudhil, kelly campbell

jon59 - Lead - 07/Mar/12

On training for WCI, did 5 pitches up the RH side before abbing.
Zoomer - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/12 with A Student

Superb climbing! Done in 6 pitches - Rob got the odds I got the evens. 6 long abseils to round off a long day!
MrRiley - AltLd - 03/Mar/12 with Rob Reglinski

Lead all but two pitches.
kenneM - AltLd - 26/Feb/12 with John McEvoy, Henry Crosby

tomwheeler - AltLd - 25/Feb/12

Spicy 4 hour abseil in the dark.
RossKirtley - AltLd - 24/Feb/12 with Matt Robinson

Tomek S - AltLd dnf - 20/Feb/12 with Grzesiek Weychan, Wojtek Polkowski

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 20/Feb/12

Wojttek - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/12 with weychan, Tomek S

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/12

I led the first pitch, and Sean the next two. With our 60m rope we think we got to the top of the 'normal' pitch 4, at which point we had to call it a day with light fading. Climbed alongside Lee and Ian, who took the conventional 4 pitches to reach our high point. Fantastic route and a bit scary on those hanging belays! Joined our rope to Ian and Lee's and took 3 full abseils, one over a cliff, to get back to the base of the route. It was the icing on the cake to a fantastic last day. Need to come back one day and finish the route, which looked pretty steep towards the top. Pizza and beers awaited!
Cornish boy - AltLd - 17/Feb/12 with Sean

iang74 - 2nd - 17/Feb/12 with Lee Halley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Feb/12

Absolutely fantastic route! Jim P1,3,5. Me 2,4. Missed P6 due to running out of time. Superb climbing never too hard. P1 was really a snowy gully. P 2 - 4 were mostly at about WI3 with the odd wee bit of WI4. P 5 had a good steep pillar - avoidable if you wanted. The abseils down took a wee while - 4 good length abs.
stratandrew - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/12 with Jim Symon

wence - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/12 with Dan, Mike J

the highlight of the trip, a long memorable day. 7 abseil descent, completed just before twilight
pebbles - AltLd - 07/Feb/12 with guido

Left hand finish, which was harder than it looked.
HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/12 with Martin (Leeming)

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/12

Late start. Took steeper variations. Abseiled off before the top two pitches.
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/12 with Jack S

williamsd79 - 2nd O/S - 07/Jan/12 with Will Marshall

Sam Warby - Lead O/S - Jan/12

JYates - AltLd - 10/Mar/11 with Mike Pigram

Avalanched.
groovy_nut - Lead dnf - 05/Mar/11 with Ant, Kate, Tom, Dave W

g0rd0n davids0n - AltLd O/S - Mar/11 with roy davidson

innesmac - Lead - Mar/11

cjohn62 - 2nd - 22/Feb/11 with keith

Julli - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/11 with Hanna Pihlajaluoto

Mark Salter - Lead rpt - 19/Feb/11 with JC

soloed up a long way. Ewan led 1st WI2 pitch, I led 2nd, walked to base of the 2 WI3 pitches, which Ewan led to top
MariaT - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/11 with Isabel, Ewan Buckingham

smudge - AltLd - 09/Feb/11 with Rob

Lapepina - 2nd - 09/Feb/11

yashvi - 09/Feb/11 with Edwin Mitchell

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/11 with Yashvi Wimasalesna

Bailed half way - too many people on route knocking down ice.
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/11 with Ellen Cobby

Ellen Cobby - 2nd - 07/Feb/11 with Adam Booth

Guide book says 7 pitches, we climbed in 5. Last 2 pitches were WI3 previous 3 were WI2, Temp around +1,
csab1978 - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Arild Wifladt

cmtoombs - Lead - 29/Jan/11 with Nick

alpinestar_no1 - AltLd β - 05/Jan/11

mschmude - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

Cristobal - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Eivind Tveter

LozM - AltLd - 06/Mar/10 with Mark J

Lame attempt. Started late, climbed slowly, got scared by the thin ice with air spaces behind, abbed off after the 3rd pitch.
jelaby - AltLd dnf - 05/Mar/10 with Manik, CoffeePot

coffeepot - 2nd - 05/Mar/10 with Manik, jelaby

Manchi - 2nd - 05/Mar/10 with tim_mcd

tim_mcd - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/10 with Manchi

Simul-Climbed in 2 pitches. Up in 90 mins, down in 60 mins. Led bottom half.
BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/10 with Neil Dowse

Simul-Climbed in 2 pitches. Up in 90 mins, down in 60 mins. Led top half.
Neil D - AltLd rpt - 27/Feb/10 with Boriz Korzh

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/10

What a classic! Unfortunately we got stuck behind some slow parties above us, we were moving a fair bit faster. I led to start of P5, where Bob took the lead. At this point Ric got hit in the leg by a large block of ice dislodged by the climbers above. Wasn't sure how bad his leg was, so abbed off in a hurry. I will definitely go back to finish this one.
Poco Loco - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/10 with Bob Barnes, Richard Roberts

bobbarnes00 - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/10 with James Pomeroy; Richard Roberts

Only did 1st pitch as the ice was not good!
ebastock - 2nd dnf - 24/Feb/10 with John Beddard

pldarch - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/10 with Gareth Jones

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd dog - 07/Feb/10

Bex_M - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/10 with Barra

JHC - Feb/10

No ice, waist-deep snow covering the slab.
ig248 - Solo dnf - Dec/09 with Fabian Jakubczik

sambosanquet101 - AltLd - 19/Feb/09 with Peter Darch

A 7 pitch 3 star Rjukan classic. This climb is a must do for an easy all day out. Can be done in 5-6 pitches with 70m rope. We did 6 pitches with a short walk to the base of the final steep section on the right(2 pitches). First couple pitches are easy slab ice WI2 with good belays with full conditions. Harder pitches towards the top with several variations up to WI5 in full conditions (finish left). On this accent we finished right with a WI3+ variant. Decent is through the trees which can be done in 5 double 60m abseils. All tree anchors have several slings with abseil rings. The best approach is to start at the power station directly below the climb. Use stairs on the left side of a building and gain access to the trees via a break in the fence at a water drain. Took 8 hours for a team of 2 without swapping leads.
dgray455 - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/09 with Alastair

Led all pitches. Nothing to difficult, though very snowy conditions. interesting ab down after dark
Kaiser999 - Lead - 01/Feb/09 with Andy Ashton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/09

cham749 - AltLd - 14/Jan/09 with David Jones

AndyL - AltLd - 06/Jan/09 with Ali Clarke and Bjarte

alexrafferty1986 - Lead O/S - Jan/09 with Ryan Perry

Gets dark early here ! Abseiled off late afternoon in pitch black awesome view of lights below.The tree stumps here are great for quick abs!
Jamie Degel - Lead O/S - Jan/09 with Frank Dahlke (DaV Kiel), volker Osterlitz (DAV Hamburg)

Very long route with sudden drop in temperature, the surface ice was very brittle and dinnerplating a lot. Having led all the bottom WI2 pitches, I had enough. John and I missed out the top 2 harder pitches and abseiled down to town.
Skinny Kin - Lead dnf - 24/Mar/08 with John Flitcroft

lots of powder, easy climbing with nice steep finish, ab down in the dark
adw07 - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/08 with Scott Becker

scottbecker - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/08 with Andrew Warren

orb - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/08 with Simon Fairman

In 6 pitches to the top. Abseiled off well to the right (looking up) in four 60m abs (2 hours for 4 people). Great day, and rather tiring.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/08 with Carmen

great but long, 2 hrs to ab down (2 x 50m and a walk to next tree) 1 x 57m to abaklovs (or tie your own) and 55m into gully. Doable with 50m ropes, easier with 60m. Took left hand steepest pillar at top at about 4+/5 on fairyfoss route !!
lithos - Lead - 05/Mar/08 with Steve Boxall

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Mar/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/08

Solo of first 3 pitches, then pitched rest. 6 abs to get off, great fun with great company!
Jamie Light - 02/Mar/08 with David Hooper/Jeff Nelson

Jim Haydock - AltLd - 24/Feb/08 with Fred'

Only did the first 3 pitches this time and finnished on the top pitch of Faireyfoss which is surely steeper than WI2.
Tim Bateman - AltLd - 24/Feb/08 with George Bird

7 pitches up and 6 abseils down. A long day but quite a good route with some steep parts. A good end to the trip.
Rampikino - AltLd - 23/Feb/08 with Cat

jjclarke70 - 2nd - 21/Feb/08 with Elliot

Adi Hooper - AltLd - 19/Feb/08 with Roger Ward

Hidden - AltLd β - 18/Feb/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead - Feb/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/08

inuklm - 2008

tombushell - 2nd - 2008 with John Bushell

DanielJ - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/07 with jon

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Mar/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/07

Neilm18 - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/07 with Mark Mosgrove

Tim Bateman - AltLd - Mar/07 with Nick Beale

Big Al slogged his way up to the start of the climb then got hit on the head by ice and had to go back to the car so me a Nick did it. Exiting absail off tree on the descent and almost got the ropes stuck
adamwesthead - AltLd O/S - Mar/07 with Hoult

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Feb/07

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Feb/07

Did 4 pitches then it got dark.......
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/07 with Andy Inglis

Moved together for first 100m or so, then pitched as it was a calf-burning horror. Felt... rough, ;-) and abbed off 2 pitches later.
Epic Ebdon - 2nd O/S - 11/Feb/07 with Neil Adams, Wee Andy

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/07 with Andy N

1st 5 pitches then abb off in the dark, Lara frost nip!
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/07 with and Ally Fulton, Lara T

Superb climbing, bit harder than Kvitaa.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/07 with SteveM

Ally Gillies - 2nd - Feb/07 with Cedric, Cam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/06

shazbat - AltLd - Mar/06 with SCC

FrankW - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/06 with Iain H

Paul Burgess - AltLd - 14/Feb/06 with Paul Hastwell

Too much fresh/loose snow = avalanche risk. Did 3 pitches and abbed off.
Simon K - Lead dnf - 06/Feb/06 with PR

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Feb/06

KerryClimbing - AltLd - Feb/06

Stuart Johnston - AltLd - Jan/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

L,2,L,2 etc.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 1999 with Ole Henning

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RobEdwards, Adam T, thebullmaster, ebastock

Voting
Total votes cast 32
hard WI3+0 of 17
WI3+0 of 17
easy WI3+1 of 17
hard WI31 of 17
WI314 of 17
easy WI31 of 17
hard WI2+0 of 17
WI2+0 of 17
easy WI2+0 of 17
3 Stars14 of 15
2 Stars1 of 15
1 Star0 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 132 (0.8%)
Lead25 of 132 (18.9%)
Followed18 of 132 (13.6%)
Alt Leads83 of 132 (62.9%)
Unknown5 of 132 (3.8%)

'Climbed'55 of 132 (41.7%)
clean O/S57 of 132 (43.2%)
clean β2 of 132 (1.5%)
clean rpt4 of 132 (3.0%)
dogged2 of 132 (1.5%)
dnf12 of 132 (9.1%)