7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Seven pitches. The wide waterfall behind Hydro Gas. The first five pitches are easy ice climbing (grade 2) and it is possible to abseil off from here. This makes the waterfall a possibility for less experienced ice climbers. The two last pitches are considerably steeper. Descend by abseiling from trees. © Rockfax

Jon Haukassveen, Jesse Nazareno 1992

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 15/Mar AltLd
SPD224 28/Feb Lead
Jo Sunderland
Hidden 28/Feb Lead
MaccMark 26/Feb AltLd
Stuart Hurworth 26/Feb AltLd O/S

Easy first 4 pitches, all a full ropes length. Some soft and melting/wet ice but a football fields width of ice to climb! Last two pitches had some short steep sections of good ice with thin ice, rock, turf and snow in between. Climbed as a three and lead P2, P5. Long 7 pitches of abseiling through trees! Good for practising your rope throwing, but it's better if you pay it out as you go!

augustus trout 26/Feb AltLd O/S
charles.austin 22/Feb AltLd O/S
OllieF 22/Feb AltLd O/S

Swinging leads, amazing route, great end to the trip. Dirty climbing on the last pitch, horrendous shattering ice, rock and snow. Had a quick crack at the left hand finish on the way down, took a fall as ice fractured unexpectedly! Abbed off on V thread.

Charles, Andy Hitchings, Jago Miller
nickstephens 13/Feb AltLd O/S

possibly with deviations ;o)

Andy bowden 13/Feb AltLd O/S
Richy boy 13/Feb AltLd O/S

Done in 6 pitches. Moved together for pitch 2. Good day.

Jackislav 13/Feb AltLd O/S
matt.woodfield 12/Feb AltLd O/S
partz 12/Feb AltLd O/S

Lead up to the steep pitches then abbed off as a group ahead of us. Bit drippy and hollow in places but a great position and views!

Richard Kendrick ?/Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jan AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jan AltLd
Hidden 08/Jan AltLd O/S
lcullum7 08/Jan AltLd O/S
BLodge 08/Jan AltLd
IJHunt 06/Jan AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 Ricard guiding others. Good conditions and nice ice.

Ciaran Mullan 05/Jan 2nd O/S
Paul Hastwell ??/2015 -
Somerville ??/2015 -
bengeldeard 16/Feb/14 AltLd

Great climb as usual. Lot of snow on it making most of it a bit of a slog (especially at the top through the trees)

Pete Budge
bonoid 18/Jan/14 2nd

Climbed as a 3. Loads of snow, good fun abseiling back down in the dark!

alexm198 17/Jan/14 AltLd dnf

Late start after having to break trail through waist deep powder to get to the start. Got up to the part where it narrows down and then abbed off to get back before nightfall. Powder was neck deep in places - avoid this one after heavy snowfall!

Hidden 17/Jan/14 AltLd dnf
KevB 13/Mar/13 AltLd rpt
Carl Sunley
mark32 ?/Mar/13 AltLd
SPD224 25/Feb/13 AltLd
Andy Bunnage
Hidden 20/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Ryan M Wilson 20/Feb/13 Lead
edmitchell 19/Feb/13 Lead rpt
emmarowe 19/Feb/13 2nd
Sam Husband 09/Feb/13 AltLd

8 pitches for us on short ropes, took 10 hours up and down, excellent fun despite ed throwing half our ice screws back down....

Stroppy 09/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

So much fun, descent through woods in the dark. Climbed 10-4, back to the car 1930.

Hidden 07/Feb/13 AltLd
tallphil 04/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Ran out of light so abbed off before WI3 pitches. Quite snowy, slightly sketch ice. Took a long time with three...

Dom Koole, Pete Robinson
pete1185 04/Feb/13 AltLd

Stopped a bit early because we ran out of light.

Dom Koole, Phil Ewels
Hidden 01/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
roelq ?/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jan/13 AltLd rpt
bengeldeard 03/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Started in dark, finished in dark. Good route, nice ledges to belay from. Best to be able to do 60m abseils.

Hidden 31/Dec/12 AltLd dnf
Hidden 31/Dec/12 AltLd dnf
marcusmarcus1 08/Mar/12 2nd dog

Al lead most of the day with a slip!!! I lead 1 small pitch as did Russ

Al Hadnett, Russ Reid
The Green Giant 08/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Dan with the van
Tom Redmond 08/Mar/12 Lead dnf

quality route, block of ice fell on wrist as base of pitch 5. suspected break, had to retreat. First time used abalakov threads!!

luke dudhil, kelly campbell
jon59 07/Mar/12 Lead
Zoomer 07/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

On training for WCI, did 5 pitches up the RH side before abbing.

A Student
MrRiley 03/Mar/12 AltLd

Superb climbing! Done in 6 pitches - Rob got the odds I got the evens. 6 long abseils to round off a long day!

kenneM 26/Feb/12 AltLd

Lead all but two pitches.

John McEvoy, Henry Crosby
tomwheeler 25/Feb/12 AltLd
RossKirtley 24/Feb/12 AltLd

Spicy 4 hour abseil in the dark.

Tomek S 20/Feb/12 AltLd dnf
Hidden 20/Feb/12 AltLd dnf
Wojttek 20/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Cornish boy 17/Feb/12 AltLd

I led the first pitch, and Sean the next two. With our 60m rope we think we got to the top of the 'normal' pitch 4, at which point we had to call it a day with light fading. Climbed alongside Lee and Ian, who took the conventional 4 pitches to reach our high point. Fantastic route and a bit scary on those hanging belays! Joined our rope to Ian and Lee's and took 3 full abseils, one over a cliff, to get back to the base of the route. It was the icing on the cake to a fantastic last day. Need to come back one day and finish the route, which looked pretty steep towards the top. Pizza and beers awaited!

iang74 17/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden 15/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/12 AltLd
stratandrew 10/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Absolutely fantastic route! Jim P1,3,5. Me 2,4. Missed P6 due to running out of time. Superb climbing never too hard. P1 was really a snowy gully. P 2 - 4 were mostly at about WI3 with the odd wee bit of WI4. P 5 had a good steep pillar - avoidable if you wanted. The abseils down took a wee while - 4 good length abs.

Jim Symon
wence 09/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Dan, Mike J
pebbles 07/Feb/12 AltLd

the highlight of the trip, a long memorable day. 7 abseil descent, completed just before twilight

sj87 07/Feb/12 -
HIGHTOWER 16/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Left hand finish, which was harder than it looked.

Martin (Leeming)
Hidden 09/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Cardi 08/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Late start. Took steeper variations. Abseiled off before the top two pitches.

Jack S
williamsd79 07/Jan/12 2nd O/S
Will Marshall
Sam Warby ?/Jan/12 Lead O/S
JYates 10/Mar/11 AltLd
Mike Pigram
groovy_nut 05/Mar/11 Lead dnf


Ant, Kate, Tom, Dave W
g0rd0n davids0n ?/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
roy davidson
innesmac ?/Mar/11 Lead
cjohn62 22/Feb/11 2nd
Julli 21/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Hanna Pihlajaluoto
Mark Salter 19/Feb/11 Lead rpt
MariaT 09/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

soloed up a long way. Ewan led 1st WI2 pitch, I led 2nd, walked to base of the 2 WI3 pitches, which Ewan led to top

smudge 09/Feb/11 AltLd
Lapepina 09/Feb/11 2nd
yashvi 09/Feb/11 -
Edwin Mitchell
edmitchell 07/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 07/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Bailed half way - too many people on route knocking down ice.

Ellen Cobby 07/Feb/11 2nd
csab1978 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Guide book says 7 pitches, we climbed in 5. Last 2 pitches were WI3 previous 3 were WI2, Temp around +1,

Arild Wifladt
cmtoombs 29/Jan/11 Lead
alpinestar_no1 05/Jan/11 AltLd β
mschmude ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Cristobal 07/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Eivind Tveter
LozM 06/Mar/10 AltLd
Mark J
jelaby 05/Mar/10 AltLd dnf

Lame attempt. Started late, climbed slowly, got scared by the thin ice with air spaces behind, abbed off after the 3rd pitch.

Manik, CoffeePot
coffeepot 05/Mar/10 2nd
Manik, jelaby
Manchi 05/Mar/10 2nd
tim_mcd 05/Mar/10 Lead O/S
BorisVBlade 27/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Simul-Climbed in 2 pitches. Up in 90 mins, down in 60 mins. Led bottom half.

Neil D 27/Feb/10 AltLd rpt

Simul-Climbed in 2 pitches. Up in 90 mins, down in 60 mins. Led top half.

Hidden 27/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Poco Loco 25/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

What a classic! Unfortunately we got stuck behind some slow parties above us, we were moving a fair bit faster. I led to start of P5, where Bob took the lead. At this point Ric got hit in the leg by a large block of ice dislodged by the climbers above. Wasn't sure how bad his leg was, so abbed off in a hurry. I will definitely go back to finish this one.

Bob Barnes, Richard Roberts
bobbarnes00 25/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
James Pomeroy; Richard Roberts
ebastock 24/Feb/10 2nd dnf

Only did 1st pitch as the ice was not good!

John Beddard
pldarch 19/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Gareth Jones
Hidden 09/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Feb/10 AltLd dog
Bex_M 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
JHC ?/Feb/10 -
ig248 ?/Dec/09 Solo dnf

No ice, waist-deep snow covering the slab.

Fabian Jakubczik
sambosanquet101 19/Feb/09 AltLd
dgray455 03/Feb/09 Lead O/S

A 7 pitch 3 star Rjukan classic. This climb is a must do for an easy all day out. Can be done in 5-6 pitches with 70m rope. We did 6 pitches with a short walk to the base of the final steep section on the right(2 pitches). First couple pitches are easy slab ice WI2 with good belays with full conditions. Harder pitches towards the top with several variations up to WI5 in full conditions (finish left). On this accent we finished right with a WI3+ variant. Decent is through the trees which can be done in 5 double 60m abseils. All tree anchors have several slings with abseil rings. The best approach is to start at the power station directly below the climb. Use stairs on the left side of a building and gain access to the trees via a break in the fence at a water drain. Took 8 hours for a team of 2 without swapping leads.

Kaiser999 01/Feb/09 Lead

Led all pitches. Nothing to difficult, though very snowy conditions. interesting ab down after dark

Andy Ashton
Hidden ?/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
cham749 14/Jan/09 AltLd
David Jones
KevB 14/Jan/09 AltLd
Henry M, Iain M
AndyL 06/Jan/09 AltLd
Ali Clarke and Bjarte
alexrafferty1986 ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Ryan Perry
Jamie Degel ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Gets dark early here ! Abseiled off late afternoon in pitch black awesome view of lights below.The tree stumps here are great for quick abs!

Frank Dahlke (DaV Kiel), volker Osterlitz (DAV Hamburg)
Skinny Kin 24/Mar/08 Lead dnf

Very long route with sudden drop in temperature, the surface ice was very brittle and dinnerplating a lot. Having led all the bottom WI2 pitches, I had enough. John and I missed out the top 2 harder pitches and abseiled down to town.

adw07 16/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

lots of powder, easy climbing with nice steep finish, ab down in the dark

Hidden 16/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Mr Spoons 08/Mar/08 Lead
orb 07/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Simon Fairman
Simon Caldwell 05/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

In 6 pitches to the top. Abseiled off well to the right (looking up) in four 60m abs (2 hours for 4 people). Great day, and rather tiring.

lithos 05/Mar/08 Lead

great but long, 2 hrs to ab down (2 x 50m and a walk to next tree) 1 x 57m to abaklovs (or tie your own) and 55m into gully. Doable with 50m ropes, easier with 60m. Took left hand steepest pillar at top at about 4+/5 on fairyfoss route !!

Steve Boxall
Hidden 02/Mar/08 2nd
Hidden 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Jamie Light 02/Mar/08 -

Solo of first 3 pitches, then pitched rest. 6 abs to get off, great fun with great company!

Jim Haydock 24/Feb/08 AltLd
Tim Bateman 24/Feb/08 AltLd

Only did the first 3 pitches this time and finnished on the top pitch of Faireyfoss which is surely steeper than WI2.

George Bird
Rampikino 23/Feb/08 AltLd

7 pitches up and 6 abseils down. A long day but quite a good route with some steep parts. A good end to the trip.

jjclarke70 21/Feb/08 2nd
Adi Hooper 19/Feb/08 AltLd
Roger Ward
Hidden 18/Feb/08 AltLd β
Hidden 15/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/08 Lead
Hidden 02/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
inuklm ??/2008 -
tombushell ??/2008 2nd
John Bushell
DanielJ 17/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
Smith42 10/Mar/07 AltLd
Davie, Kevin
Hidden 07/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
Neilm18 07/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
Tim Bateman ?/Mar/07 AltLd
Nick Beale
adamwesthead ?/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Big Al slogged his way up to the start of the climb then got hit on the head by ice and had to go back to the car so me a Nick did it. Exiting absail off tree on the descent and almost got the ropes stuck

Hidden 20/Feb/07 2nd
Hidden 15/Feb/07 AltLd
Fultonius 11/Feb/07 AltLd O/S

Did 4 pitches then it got dark.......

Epic Ebdon 11/Feb/07 2nd O/S

Moved together for first 100m or so, then pitched as it was a calf-burning horror. Felt... rough, ;-) and abbed off 2 pitches later.

Neil Adams, Wee Andy
Neil Adams 11/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Andy N
andyinglis 11/Feb/07 AltLd O/S

1st 5 pitches then abb off in the dark, Lara frost nip!

and Ally Fulton, Lara T
KeithW 01/Feb/07 AltLd O/S

Superb climbing, bit harder than Kvitaa.

Ally Gillies ?/Feb/07 2nd
Cedric, Cam
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
shazbat ?/Mar/06 AltLd
FrankW 22/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
Iain H
Paul Burgess 14/Feb/06 AltLd
Paul Hastwell
Simon K 06/Feb/06 Lead dnf

Too much fresh/loose snow = avalanche risk. Did 3 pitches and abbed off.

Hidden 04/Feb/06 AltLd
KerryClimbing ?/Feb/06 AltLd
Stuart Johnston ?/Jan/06 AltLd
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
plain kitten ??/2000 Lead
charlesmfrench ??/1999 AltLd O/S

L,2,L,2 etc.

Ole Henning
High WI3+
Mid WI3+
Low WI3+
High WI3
Mid WI3
Low WI3
High WI2+
Mid WI2+
Low WI2+
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set