Seven pitches. The wide waterfall behind Hydro Gas. The first five pitches are easy ice climbing (grade 2) and it is possible to abseil off from here. This makes the waterfall a possibility for less experienced ice climbers. The two last pitches are considerably steeper. Descend by abseiling from trees. © Rockfax
Jon Haukassveen, Jesse Nazareno 1992
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Stuart Hurworth||26/Feb||AltLd O/S||
Easy first 4 pitches, all a full ropes length. Some soft and melting/wet ice but a football fields width of ice to climb! Last two pitches had some short steep sections of good ice with thin ice, rock, turf and snow in between. Climbed as a three and lead P2, P5. Long 7 pitches of abseiling through trees! Good for practising your rope throwing, but it's better if you pay it out as you go!
|augustus trout||26/Feb||AltLd O/S|
Swinging leads, amazing route, great end to the trip. Dirty climbing on the last pitch, horrendous shattering ice, rock and snow. Had a quick crack at the left hand finish on the way down, took a fall as ice fractured unexpectedly! Abbed off on V thread.
Charles, Andy Hitchings, Jago Miller
possibly with deviations ;o)
|Andy bowden||13/Feb||AltLd O/S|
|Richy boy||13/Feb||AltLd O/S||
Done in 6 pitches. Moved together for pitch 2. Good day.
Lead up to the steep pitches then abbed off as a group ahead of us. Bit drippy and hollow in places but a great position and views!
|Richard Kendrick||?/Feb||AltLd O/S||
Lead pitch 2 Ricard guiding others. Good conditions and nice ice.
|Ciaran Mullan||05/Jan||2nd O/S|
Great climb as usual. Lot of snow on it making most of it a bit of a slog (especially at the top through the trees)
Climbed as a 3. Loads of snow, good fun abseiling back down in the dark!
Late start after having to break trail through waist deep powder to get to the start. Got up to the part where it narrows down and then abbed off to get back before nightfall. Powder was neck deep in places - avoid this one after heavy snowfall!
|Ryan M Wilson||20/Feb/13||Lead|
8 pitches for us on short ropes, took 10 hours up and down, excellent fun despite ed throwing half our ice screws back down....
So much fun, descent through woods in the dark. Climbed 10-4, back to the car 1930.
Ran out of light so abbed off before WI3 pitches. Quite snowy, slightly sketch ice. Took a long time with three...
Dom Koole, Pete Robinson
Stopped a bit early because we ran out of light.
Dom Koole, Phil Ewels
Started in dark, finished in dark. Good route, nice ledges to belay from. Best to be able to do 60m abseils.
Al lead most of the day with a slip!!! I lead 1 small pitch as did Russ
Al Hadnett, Russ Reid
|The Green Giant||08/Mar/12||AltLd O/S||
Dan with the van
|Tom Redmond||08/Mar/12||Lead dnf||
quality route, block of ice fell on wrist as base of pitch 5. suspected break, had to retreat. First time used abalakov threads!!
luke dudhil, kelly campbell
On training for WCI, did 5 pitches up the RH side before abbing.
Superb climbing! Done in 6 pitches - Rob got the odds I got the evens. 6 long abseils to round off a long day!
Lead all but two pitches.
John McEvoy, Henry Crosby
Spicy 4 hour abseil in the dark.
|Tomek S||20/Feb/12||AltLd dnf|
I led the first pitch, and Sean the next two. With our 60m rope we think we got to the top of the 'normal' pitch 4, at which point we had to call it a day with light fading. Climbed alongside Lee and Ian, who took the conventional 4 pitches to reach our high point. Fantastic route and a bit scary on those hanging belays! Joined our rope to Ian and Lee's and took 3 full abseils, one over a cliff, to get back to the base of the route. It was the icing on the cake to a fantastic last day. Need to come back one day and finish the route, which looked pretty steep towards the top. Pizza and beers awaited!
Absolutely fantastic route! Jim P1,3,5. Me 2,4. Missed P6 due to running out of time. Superb climbing never too hard. P1 was really a snowy gully. P 2 - 4 were mostly at about WI3 with the odd wee bit of WI4. P 5 had a good steep pillar - avoidable if you wanted. The abseils down took a wee while - 4 good length abs.
Dan, Mike J
the highlight of the trip, a long memorable day. 7 abseil descent, completed just before twilight
Left hand finish, which was harder than it looked.
Late start. Took steeper variations. Abseiled off before the top two pitches.
|Sam Warby||?/Jan/12||Lead O/S|
Ant, Kate, Tom, Dave W
|g0rd0n davids0n||?/Mar/11||AltLd O/S||
|Mark Salter||19/Feb/11||Lead rpt||
soloed up a long way. Ewan led 1st WI2 pitch, I led 2nd, walked to base of the 2 WI3 pitches, which Ewan led to top
|Adam Booth||07/Feb/11||Lead O/S||
Bailed half way - too many people on route knocking down ice.
Guide book says 7 pitches, we climbed in 5. Last 2 pitches were WI3 previous 3 were WI2, Temp around +1,
Lame attempt. Started late, climbed slowly, got scared by the thin ice with air spaces behind, abbed off after the 3rd pitch.
Simul-Climbed in 2 pitches. Up in 90 mins, down in 60 mins. Led bottom half.
|Neil D||27/Feb/10||AltLd rpt||
Simul-Climbed in 2 pitches. Up in 90 mins, down in 60 mins. Led top half.
|Poco Loco||25/Feb/10||AltLd O/S||
What a classic! Unfortunately we got stuck behind some slow parties above us, we were moving a fair bit faster. I led to start of P5, where Bob took the lead. At this point Ric got hit in the leg by a large block of ice dislodged by the climbers above. Wasn't sure how bad his leg was, so abbed off in a hurry. I will definitely go back to finish this one.
Bob Barnes, Richard Roberts
James Pomeroy; Richard Roberts
Only did 1st pitch as the ice was not good!
No ice, waist-deep snow covering the slab.
A 7 pitch 3 star Rjukan classic. This climb is a must do for an easy all day out. Can be done in 5-6 pitches with 70m rope. We did 6 pitches with a short walk to the base of the final steep section on the right(2 pitches). First couple pitches are easy slab ice WI2 with good belays with full conditions. Harder pitches towards the top with several variations up to WI5 in full conditions (finish left). On this accent we finished right with a WI3+ variant. Decent is through the trees which can be done in 5 double 60m abseils. All tree anchors have several slings with abseil rings. The best approach is to start at the power station directly below the climb. Use stairs on the left side of a building and gain access to the trees via a break in the fence at a water drain. Took 8 hours for a team of 2 without swapping leads.
Led all pitches. Nothing to difficult, though very snowy conditions. interesting ab down after dark
Henry M, Iain M
Ali Clarke and Bjarte
|Jamie Degel||?/Jan/09||Lead O/S||
Gets dark early here ! Abseiled off late afternoon in pitch black awesome view of lights below.The tree stumps here are great for quick abs!
Frank Dahlke (DaV Kiel), volker Osterlitz (DAV Hamburg)
|Skinny Kin||24/Mar/08||Lead dnf||
Very long route with sudden drop in temperature, the surface ice was very brittle and dinnerplating a lot. Having led all the bottom WI2 pitches, I had enough. John and I missed out the top 2 harder pitches and abseiled down to town.
lots of powder, easy climbing with nice steep finish, ab down in the dark
|Simon Caldwell||05/Mar/08||AltLd O/S||
In 6 pitches to the top. Abseiled off well to the right (looking up) in four 60m abs (2 hours for 4 people). Great day, and rather tiring.
great but long, 2 hrs to ab down (2 x 50m and a walk to next tree) 1 x 57m to abaklovs (or tie your own) and 55m into gully. Doable with 50m ropes, easier with 60m. Took left hand steepest pillar at top at about 4+/5 on fairyfoss route !!
Solo of first 3 pitches, then pitched rest. 6 abs to get off, great fun with great company!
Only did the first 3 pitches this time and finnished on the top pitch of Faireyfoss which is surely steeper than WI2.
7 pitches up and 6 abseils down. A long day but quite a good route with some steep parts. A good end to the trip.
Big Al slogged his way up to the start of the climb then got hit on the head by ice and had to go back to the car so me a Nick did it. Exiting absail off tree on the descent and almost got the ropes stuck
Did 4 pitches then it got dark.......
|Epic Ebdon||11/Feb/07||2nd O/S||
Moved together for first 100m or so, then pitched as it was a calf-burning horror. Felt... rough, ;-) and abbed off 2 pitches later.
Neil Adams, Wee Andy
|Neil Adams||11/Feb/07||Lead O/S||
1st 5 pitches then abb off in the dark, Lara frost nip!
and Ally Fulton, Lara T
Superb climbing, bit harder than Kvitaa.
|Simon K||06/Feb/06||Lead dnf||
Too much fresh/loose snow = avalanche risk. Did 3 pitches and abbed off.