This great climb features slabs, cracks and dièdres. Medium protection so take nuts and friends.
Access: Starting from the cable car terminus cross the road going up to the dam and go to the hairpin bend under the cliff where there is a red mark and an arrow (5 minutes)
Description: (Treat, as usual, with caution.)
1. V+ 40m. Climb a crack to the left of a long dièdre and then cross over to the right underneath an overhang. Go over this and head leftwards to a slab then go direct to find a belay ledge to the left of an overhang.
2. V+ 15m. Climb up flakes for a few metres and pass over the overhang on the left and get into a sloping dièdre. There is a stance a little way right on a slab.
3. V 30m. Climb the slab curving slightly to the right and then left below a steep wall to a large chimney.
4. V 20m. Climb leftwards to and by flakes to a large plant (!).
5. V+ 25m. Climb rightwards to the bottom of a wide crack. Climb this to a spike below an overhang.
6. VI+ 30m. Go left under the overhang (VI+), climb up using flakes towards a niche and find a small ledge out on your right.
7. VI 35m. Climb a slab direct with blind cracks going up to a block which you pass by on the left. Take a crack under a large overhang that goes left. Now climb another short crack (VI) that leads to a comfortable stance below another overhang.
8. V 40m. Go left of the overhang using flakes then climb a dièdre to flakes and so up to the pillar’s top.
Descent: Abseil (down the chimney to the left (south) of the climb or continue up the north east ridge.
Access: Starting from the cable car terminus cross the road going up to the dam and go to the hairpin bend under the cliff where there is a red mark and an arrow (5 minutes)
Description: (Treat, as usual, with caution.)
1. V+ 40m. Climb a crack to the left of a long dièdre and then cross over to the right underneath an overhang. Go over this and head leftwards to a slab then go direct to find a belay ledge to the left of an overhang.
2. V+ 15m. Climb up flakes for a few metres and pass over the overhang on the left and get into a sloping dièdre. There is a stance a little way right on a slab.
3. V 30m. Climb the slab curving slightly to the right and then left below a steep wall to a large chimney.
4. V 20m. Climb leftwards to and by flakes to a large plant (!).
5. V+ 25m. Climb rightwards to the bottom of a wide crack. Climb this to a spike below an overhang.
6. VI+ 30m. Go left under the overhang (VI+), climb up using flakes towards a niche and find a small ledge out on your right.
7. VI 35m. Climb a slab direct with blind cracks going up to a block which you pass by on the left. Take a crack under a large overhang that goes left. Now climb another short crack (VI) that leads to a comfortable stance below another overhang.
8. V 40m. Go left of the overhang using flakes then climb a dièdre to flakes and so up to the pillar’s top.
Descent: Abseil (down the chimney to the left (south) of the climb or continue up the north east ridge.
Franco Giacomelli and Renata Rossi. (Modified line Berhard Falett, 1996) 01/Aug/1987.
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Route of Interest
NE Direct (Nigg)
Grade: 6a ***
(Spazzacaldera)