North Yorkshire > Highcliffe Nab >
 
Magic in the Air (Original)*** E5 6b

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The superb, bold and technical arete is the best route on the cliff and maybe in the whole area. Follow the arete on its right-hand side throughout. A pre-placed and pre-clipped runner over to the right, in Stargazer, reduces the grade to E5 6b. © ROCKFAX
Classy arete climbing utilising pre-clipped side runners in Stargazer.
Nick Dixon

Ticklists: NYMoors Classics, North York Moors E5s.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 13 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Got Calum to clean it. Fell off low down a few times with some amusing swings. A bit sad not to onsight it but the climbing makes up for it, especially doing it the same visit as Moonflower.
Matthew Ferrier - Lead - 26/Jul/14 with Calum Wadsworth

Great route! Ground up.
theomoore - Lead β - 09/Jul/14 with robertmctague

coreybennett - TR dog - 21/Jun/14 with the shunt

ground up, second go. Should have flashed, never mind still an awesome route. Will be back to do the E6/7 way.
robertmctague - Lead - 2014

Ram MkiV - Solo RP - 05/Oct/13

First go, again -- suits me and whatever remains of my style. Still a lovely route.
Jon Read - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/12 with andi turner

Been after this one for a while! Really, really brilliant. Technical enough to make you think you're a real rock star and just enough to get the nerves going. Lowered off a hanging rope rather than doing battle with the 12 feet of overganging jungle at the top, good enough for me.
andi turner - Lead - 12/Aug/12 with Jon Read

Rue not cleaning and chalking the route properly when i placed the side runners, but wanted to 'fl-onsight' it...! Happy birthday to me anyhow, first go, ground up after a scritty slip off a hold on the arete. Brilliant climb, longer obviously but easier technically than Fresh Arete.
Dave Warburton - Lead - 01/Sep/11 with Franco Cookson

Abbed down and gave the route a quick brush, led with pre cliped side runners. Need to come back and finish it off properly
lukehunt - Lead β - 06/Apr/09 with Rob

fantastic technical climbing with a bold feeling, dynamic finish. Abbed to clean it up a bit, put the side runners in then made a decent 1st effort but slipped off about level with the gear as I overlooked one of the holds I'd just cleaned and chalked (doh!). 10mins rest then got it next go.
Ram MkiV - Lead - 27/Jul/08 with Al

what a fantastic route!superb moves!defo a scary lead tho...
mikekeswick - TR dog - 10/Jun/08 with amy

With the side-runner (E5). Wanted to do this for years, since I saw the picture of Nick Dixon doing it in the Dave Jones book. Abbed it first to clean it and place side-runner; flashed the climbing. A very hard E6 to onsight solo? Dynamic at times. Top notch route, though!
Jon Read - Lead β - 15/Apr/07 with Debs

Steve Crowe - 2000

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Sam Marks, James Oakes, B-bop, Franco Cookson OLD, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 10
hard E60 of 2
E60 of 2
easy E60 of 2
hard E50 of 2
E52 of 2
easy E50 of 2
hard E40 of 2
E40 of 2
easy E40 of 2
hard 6c0 of 4
6c0 of 4
easy 6c0 of 4
hard 6b0 of 4
6b4 of 4
easy 6b0 of 4
hard 6a0 of 4
6a0 of 4
easy 6a0 of 4
3 Stars4 of 4
2 Stars0 of 4
1 Star0 of 4
0 Stars0 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
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