Gandalf*** n5
[Gandalfveggen, Lofoten, 3 kb]95m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A Lofoten classic up the highest part of the cliff by a fine series of pitches, each interesting, varied and well protected. Start up the left-facing groove behind a tree and a large boulder at the right side of the face.
1) 5, 40m. Climb the narrow groove, passing a small overhang, then continue up a short slab to stance by a good crack. Avoid belaying on the loose blocks over to the right.
2) 5-, 35m. Traverse 5m to the right, climb the juggy overhang and awkward groove just to the right. Continue past a possible stance below the steep headwall split by a vertical crack. Cross the tricky slab leftwards and pass the arete, then climb up good finger-cracks to a belay in the prominent yellow niche of the Eagle's Nest. Care needed with rope drag on this pitch.
4) 5-, 25m. From the Eagle's Nest, step right around a small corner - exposed and delicate for a few moves - then follow an easier crack straight to the top.
4a) 6+ 25m. The original (and much harder) finish goes straight through the lip of the Eagle's Nest via a strenuous jamming crack. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
1) 4c, 40m 2) 4c, 30m 3) 4b, 25m

FA. A. Meyer, K.O. Storvik, B Tollefsen (some aid) 1978

Photo: Gandalfveggen, Lofoten © plummet
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 131 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Great view from eagle ledge... Pitch 2 was long... A few communication problems because acoustics on last pitch... A cool, exposed boulder problem on last pitch with 2 horizontal hand jams.
James Rigby - 2nd β - 18/Aug/15 with Dylan Taylor

Messed up P3 and went up Guns n Roses by mistake.
Bob Peters - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/15

Hidden - AltLd RP - 18/Jul/15

rpinto - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/15

With Helen
DavidEvans - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/15

With Helen
DavidEvans - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/15

started climbing while damp to beat queue. first pitch felt pokey as a result!
tomdude - Lead O/S - Jul/15 with marie

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/15 with Pete

Led pitches 1 and 3
MD - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/15 with Jo

P1 a tough corner crack to start, especially when a cam wanders in out of reach. Led p2 - a wandering route which took some fathoming out and needed almost everything on my harness. Hauled ropes to get into the eagle's nest for a rest. P3 a delicate step round to a less exciting finish of an otherwise great route.
Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/15 with Mike D

tricky low down
Dave Rumney - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/15 with Tanya Milner

Little AndyH - AltLd O/S - Jun/15

PhilipO - AltLd O/S - Jun/15 with Alfred L

Led pitch 2. Did direct finish. Nice route.
JuneBob - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/14 with Odd Rune

Hidden - AltLd dog - 02/Aug/14

Timothy Miller - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14

ad111 - AltLd O/S - Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 22/Jun/14

John Nuttall - Lead - 08/Jun/14 with Sharon

Stefan_Morris - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/13 with jenny

Jen 'Banksy' Banks - AltLd - Aug/13 with Stefan

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 16/Jul/13

Led pitches 1 and 3.
cameron_hall - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Chris Allan

pitch 2
chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with cameron_hall

Led first pitch of Guns n Roses to start. Then P3.
mes32 - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Aeron

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jul/13

Superb climbing. Lead P2, rope drag made me feel like I was doing power squats!
Merlin - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Dave Tait

After waiting out the rain in cafe. Decided to go for it VERY low cloud. Started raining on top pitch. I took lead on the middle pitch. Start of first pitch was hard and very awkward as a few key hold were still wet.
Kemics - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Geordie

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/13

ferdia - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/13 with Lyndsey

klipkabouter - AltLd O/S - Jun/13 with John Vous

In the wet, very good. I lead P1
James Oswald - Lead - Jun/13 with Clare Erskine

Timo Austino - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Dave Bart

first two pitches are pantastic with amazing jams on the first pitch but the third is a bit of a let down.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Delphine

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 13/Aug/12

Graceful - Aug/12 with laurence

Odd pitches. Gollum's easier.
Batt - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/12 with James Hoyes

Led P2
mtempest - AltLd - 19/Jul/12 with Dan Lane

P1 and 3. last pitch was a bit of a disappointment after the 1st move.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/12 with Mike Tempest

Hoyes - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/12 with Rachel B

Daniel Armitage - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/12 with Charlotte Armitage

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/12

Led p1 & p3. Great climbing on lovely rock!
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12

cymjt - Jul/12

Led P2. Excellent
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12 with Claire, Simon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 04/Jun/12

I reckon the 1st pitch is the crux pitch; bit polished but great jamming on solid rock.
Gibson27 - AltLd O/S - Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/11

Excellent climbing but route wanders about a bit in upper sections.
Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Ian Bradley, Conan Harrod

1st route of the holiday and straight into jamming on the 1st move!
Conan - AltLd - 10/Jul/11 with Ian Bradley, Ken Taylor

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/11

cat22 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/11 with Mike

Anna_wells - AltLd - Jul/11 with Ali Clarke

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11

I led P2
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with mrstarwarsman

mrstarwarsman - AltLd - 05/Jun/11 with john tanner

Snecos - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Aug/10

Danhan - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Nick

tobydunford - AltLd - 06/Aug/10 with Ola

Andrew1 - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Hulda

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/10

led p 1&3 - excellent
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with Chris Vernon

cem - AltLd rpt - 17/Jun/10 with Dave Amos

Ztephan - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with Marius

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

I lead p2
SGD - AltLd - 25/Aug/09 with Angelika Renner

naine - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/09 with SGD

100m VS 4c, led pitches 1 & 3
John Roe - AltLd - 08/Aug/09 with Rob Patchett

joeydurkin - AltLd - 02/Aug/09 with Dave Gleave

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Aug/09

Theeni - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Matt Kemp

richardlong78 - Lead - 21/Jul/09

HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/09 with The Barron

Lead pitches 1 and 3. Great route. First pitch worth 5+ in my book
Andy Chubb - AltLd - 12/Jul/09 with Guy Hustinx

Blisco - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/09 with Peter Skan

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jul/09

Pitches 1 + 3
chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/09 with Dave Turner

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/09

AJ007 - AltLd - Jul/09 with Michael P

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/09 with helen gibson

tuukka - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/09 with Hanna

Henrik - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Maria

cali1001 - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with jocke

Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 28/May/09 with Andy Inglis

andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 28/May/09 with Ally Fulton

eivindf - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Claire S-J - Lead - Aug/08

Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/08 with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/08

Ing - AltLd - 18/Jul/08 with Hal & Stevie G

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/08

oor wullie - Jul/08 with Risto kalampa

Gustav - AltLd - Jul/08 with BeerMonkey

Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - 11/Jun/08 with Mark Glaister

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/07

Led pitches 2 & 3 previously did pitch 1 with Jim and Jussi in August 2002. it rained on me for my entire lead.. lovely! Still straight forward and nice climbing.
Mattyk - AltLd rpt - 05/Aug/07 with Ali K

Hidden - Lead β - 01/Jul/07

Elsier - 2nd O/S - Jul/07 with Stuart

mattpw - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Juha Kaupilla

Whitt - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with Luke, Ian

Luuuuuke - Lead O/S - Jun/07 with ian, whitt

cem - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/06 with Graham Dolman

RAK - AltLd - 16/Jul/06 with Lauri

Oliver Sherman - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Brad Jackson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

steev - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

decs - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Steve

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/06

dave o - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Julia H

Bad Mongo - AltLd - Aug/04

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - Jul/04 with Clare

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/03 with Clare Wilkie

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - AltLd - Jun/02 with Andy Hyslop

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
theplacelives, Ropeboy, andymoin

Total votes cast 42
hard n5+1 of 19
n5+0 of 19
easy n5+0 of 19
hard n510 of 19
n57 of 19
easy n51 of 19
hard n5-0 of 19
n5-0 of 19
easy n5-0 of 19
3 Stars23 of 23
2 Stars0 of 23
1 Star0 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP