Lofoten > Gandalf >
 
Gandalf*** n5

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Gandalf Direct Finish >>
[Mark on Gandalf, Lofoten Islands, 3 kb]95m, 3 pitches. A Lofoten classic up the highest part of the cliff by a fine series of pitches, each interesting, varied and well protected. Start up the left-facing groove behind a tree and a large boulder at the right side of the face. 1) 5, 40m. Climb the narrow groove, passing a small overhang, then continue up a short slab to stance by a good crack. Avoid belaying on the loose blocks over to the right. 2) 5-, 35m. Traverse 5m to the right, climb the juggy overhang and awkward groove just to the right. Continue past a possible stance below the steep headwall split by a vertical hand-crack. Cross the tricky slab leftwards and pass the arete then climb up good finger-cracks to a belay in the prominent yellow niche of the Eagle’s Nest. Care needed with rope drag on this pitch. 3) 5-, 25m. From the Eagle’s Nest, step right around a small corner - exposed and delicate for a few moves - then follow an easier crack straight to the top. 4a) 6+ 25m. The original (and much harder) finish goes straight through the lip of the Eagle’s Nest via a strenuous jamming crack. © ROCKFAX
1) 4c, 40m 2) 4c, 30m 3) 4b, 25m
FA. A. Meyer, K.O. Storvik, B Tollefsen (some aid) 1978

Photo: Mark on Gandalf, Lofoten Islands © kean
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 111 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 22/Jun/14

John Nuttall - Lead - 08/Jun/14 with Sharon

Stefan_Morris - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/13 with jenny

Jen 'Banksy' Banks - AltLd - Aug/13 with Stefan

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 16/Jul/13

Led pitches 1 and 3.
cameron_hall - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Chris Allan

pitch 2
chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with cameron_hall

Led first pitch of Guns n Roses to start. Then P3.
mes32 - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Aeron

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jul/13

Superb climbing. Lead P2, rope drag made me feel like I was doing power squats!
Merlin - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Dave Tait

After waiting out the rain in cafe. Decided to go for it VERY low cloud. Started raining on top pitch. I took lead on the middle pitch. Start of first pitch was hard and very awkward as a few key hold were still wet.
Kemics - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Geordie

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/13

ferdia - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/13 with Lyndsey

klipkabouter - AltLd O/S - Jun/13 with John Vous

In the wet, very good. I lead P1
James Oswald - Lead - Jun/13 with Clare Erskine

Timo Austino - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Dave Bart

first two pitches are pantastic with amazing jams on the first pitch but the third is a bit of a let down.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Delphine

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 13/Aug/12

Graceful - Aug/12 with laurence

Odd pitches. Gollum's easier.
Batt - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/12 with James Hoyes

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jul/12

P1 and 3. last pitch was a bit of a disappointment after the 1st move.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/12 with Mike Tempest

Hoyes - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/12 with Rachel B

Daniel Armitage - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/12 with Charlotte Armitage

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/12

Led p1 & p3. Great climbing on lovely rock!
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12

Led P2. Excellent
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12 with Claire, Simon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 04/Jun/12

I reckon the 1st pitch is the crux pitch; bit polished but great jamming on solid rock.
Gibson27 - AltLd O/S - Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/11

Excellent climbing but route wanders about a bit in upper sections.
Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Ian Bradley, Conan Harrod

1st route of the holiday and straight into jamming on the 1st move!
Conan - AltLd - 10/Jul/11 with Ian Bradley, Ken Taylor

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/11

cat22 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/11 with Mike

Anna_wells - AltLd - Jul/11 with Ali Clarke

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11

I led P2
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with mrstarwarsman

mrstarwarsman - AltLd - 05/Jun/11 with john tanner

Snecos - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Aug/10

Danhan - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Nick

tobydunford - AltLd - 06/Aug/10 with Ola

Andrew1 - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Hulda

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/10

led p 1&3 - excellent
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with Chris Vernon

cem - AltLd rpt - 17/Jun/10 with Dave Amos

Ztephan - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with Marius

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

I lead p2
SGD - AltLd - 25/Aug/09 with Angelika Renner

naine - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/09 with SGD

100m VS 4c, led pitches 1 & 3
John Roe - AltLd - 08/Aug/09 with Rob Patchett

joeydurkin - AltLd - 02/Aug/09 with Dave Gleave

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Aug/09

Theeni - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Matt Kemp

richardlong78 - Lead - 21/Jul/09

HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/09 with The Barron

Lead pitches 1 and 3. Great route. First pitch worth 5+ in my book
Andy Chubb - AltLd - 12/Jul/09 with Guy Hustinx

Blisco - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/09 with Peter Skan

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jul/09

Pitches 1 + 3
chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/09 with Dave Turner

brockers - AltLd - Jul/09 with Maggie Bass

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/09 with helen gibson

tuukka - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/09 with Hanna

Henrik - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Maria

cali1001 - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with jocke

Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 28/May/09 with Andy Inglis

andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 28/May/09 with Ally Fulton

eivindf - Lead O/S - 2009

Tarquin - 2009

Claire S-J - Lead - Aug/08

Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/08 with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/08

Ing - AltLd - 18/Jul/08 with Hal & Stevie G

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/08

oor wullie - Jul/08 with Risto kalampa

Gustav - AltLd - Jul/08 with BeerMonkey

Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - 11/Jun/08 with Mark Glaister

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/07

Led pitches 2 & 3 previously did pitch 1 with Jim and Jussi in August 2002. it rained on me for my entire lead.. lovely! Still straight forward and nice climbing.
Mattyk - AltLd rpt - 05/Aug/07 with Ali K

Hidden - Lead β - 01/Jul/07

Elsier - 2nd O/S - Jul/07 with Stuart

mattpw - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Juha Kaupilla

Whitt - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with Luke, Ian

Luuuuuke - Lead O/S - Jun/07 with ian, whitt

cem - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/06 with Graham Dolman

RAK - AltLd - 16/Jul/06 with Lauri

Oliver Sherman - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Brad Jackson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

steev - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

decs - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Steve

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/06

dave o - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Julia H

Bad Mongo - AltLd - Aug/04

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/03 with Clare Wilkie

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - AltLd - Jun/02 with Andy Hyslop

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Timothy Miller, Hidden, Ropeboy, andymoin

Voting
Total votes cast 32
hard n5+0 of 14
n5+0 of 14
easy n5+0 of 14
hard n58 of 14
n55 of 14
easy n51 of 14
hard n5-0 of 14
n5-0 of 14
easy n5-0 of 14
3 Stars18 of 18
2 Stars0 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

Lead21 of 111 (18.9%)
Followed3 of 111 (2.7%)
Alt Leads81 of 111 (73.0%)
Unknown6 of 111 (5.4%)

'Climbed'43 of 111 (38.7%)
clean O/S62 of 111 (55.9%)
clean β1 of 111 (0.9%)
clean rpt5 of 111 (4.5%)