54m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route and an astounding effort for its day. The climb remains steep and intimidating, with a great atmosphere and a spectacular finale.
1) 4+, 22m. A steep start up the right-hand groove (easier just to the left) leads to ledges, continue up a flake on the left and a steep juggy groove/chimney to a stance on the right with spike belays, a short distance below the shoulder.
2) 4+, 14m. 'The Rubenson Traverse'. Trend diagonally left across the steep and exposed wall, on a line of superb jugs, passing a couple of pegs. Make an exposed move round the arete to a good stance and double-bolt belay.
3) 4+, 20m. Continue up the deep groove system on the left to reach the notch between the horns (view). Traverse right across the inner face past flakes (exposed) to reach the western arete of the Storhorn and climb this to the top. Cross the gap to a belay on gear on the Lillehorn. Take care with rope work on this pitch. © Rockfax

FA. CW Rubenson, AB Bryn, F Shcjelderup 1910

Hidden 01/Aug AltLd dnf
jonnie3430 08/Jul AltLd O/S
with Pete
rpinto 04/Jul 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
EWhyte ?/Jul/14 2nd
Samantha Dickson ?/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
AliMackenzie 10/May/13 AltLd
with Ken
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead
Batt 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Great fun in the clag. Lead p2 and onto the top p4 after J's non pitch! Belayed hanging between the two horns since legs too short to sit on small one and reach!

Hoyes 20/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Dan Lane 20/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

An entertaining jaunt upto the famous summit in the clag/mist/rain/cold/wind. I led p1.

with James Hoyes, Rach Batt
victim of mathematics 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Ran the first 2 pitches together and then abseiled off (having already been to the top). Really good, but covered in a baffling number of pegs, some very new.

with Claire
Leelogs 05/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/12 Lead O/S
espenstenberg ?/Jul/12 2nd O/S
cymjt ?/Jul/12 -
Jack_Lewin 19/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Nick Lyons
Zoomer 18/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed as a three, rock soaking, cloud and mist everywhere and blowy. 1st pitch and 3rd. 4c, 4c, 4a but that doesn't tell the story! Old school climbing before a jaw dropping finish. Very awkward to protect the final belay/step across i.e. don't. Clip the bolts, step a cross, get lowered then repeat for the 2nd.

with A Student
Ken Taylor 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Conan Harrod
Conan 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Ken Taylor
JenDurden 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1. Terrified at the top--far too scared to jump!

with Max
Hidden 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Big Lee 15/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Quality route with some great summit views. Led all three pitches. Top of 1st pitch & first moves of second pitch warrent a 4c in my eyes rather than 4b grades quoted in Rockfax. Declined the jump across the blocks as it looked terrifying and therefore opted to step across which was difficult enough. Then more difficulties trying to step back across to the ab point on the higher block. All good fun.

with Polly Gardiner
Hidden 12/Jun/11 Lead
bridget143 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Film duty, training the Norwegian sport climber into trad ways :-)

with Toby Dunford, Mikkel
tobydunford 05/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Mikkel, Bridget Hall
Ztephan ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Marius
John Roe 11/Aug/09 AltLd

Led pitch 2

with Marshall Kinnear
joeydurkin 05/Aug/09 AltLd
with Patch
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd
Roch 30/Jul/09 AltLd
with MRT
Hidden 07/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Ing 06/Jul/08 2nd
with Stevie G & James
Hexman 01/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
TonyB 04/Jun/08 AltLd

I thought that this was a poor route. Rope drag was a pain on the last pitch.

with Simon
Hidden 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Elsier ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Stuart
mattpw ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Juha Kaupilla
Hidden 13/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Jody ?/May/05 Lead O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches

with Erik
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Jul/04 Lead
with Clare
Erkke ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Anders, Jody
frotveit 18/Jul/03 AltLd
chrishedgehog 08/Jul/03 Lead O/S

First route in Lofoten! The leap across was certainly the highlight, not least as we did not land in the cemetery.

with Clare Wilkie
TobyA 07/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Elina
granitbahn ?/Jul/88 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Potemkin, Hidden, Hidden, poeter210
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Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
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