Lofoten > Svolværgeita >
 
1910 Ruta*** n4+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Rapellruta
 
Baksida >>
[A midnight climb, 1 kb]54m, 3 pitches. A great route and an astounding effort for its day; the climb remains steep and intimidating, with an atmosphere second to none and a spectacular finale. 1) 4+, 22m. A steep start up the right-hand groove (easier just to the left) leads to ledges, continue up a flake on the left and a steep juggy groove/chimney to a stance on the right with spike belays, a short distance below the shoulder. 2) 4+, 14m. The Rubenson Traverse; trend diagonally left across the steep and exposed wall on a line of superb jugs passing a couple of pegs to an exposed move round the arete which locates a good stance and twin bolt belay round the arete. 2) 4+, 20m. Continue up the deep groove-system on the left to reach the gap between the horns (views!). Traverse right across the inner face past flakes (exposed) to reach the western arete of the Big Horn and climb this to the top. Cross the gap to a belay. © ROCKFAX
FA. CW Rubenson, AB Bryn, F Shcjelderup 1910

Photo: A midnight climb © AlH
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 41 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/13

AliMackenzie - AltLd - 10/May/13 with Ken

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/12

Great fun in the clag. Lead p2 and onto the top p4 after J's non pitch! Belayed hanging between the two horns since legs too short to sit on small one and reach!
Batt - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Dan, James Hoyes

Hoyes - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/12 with Dan L, Rachel B

An entertaining jaunt upto the famous summit in the clag/mist/rain/cold/wind. I led p1.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/12 with James Hoyes, Rach Batt

Ran the first 2 pitches together and then abseiled off (having already been to the top). Really good, but covered in a baffling number of pegs, some very new.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/12 with Claire

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/12

espenstenberg - 2nd O/S - Jul/12

cymjt - Jul/12

Jack_Lewin - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Nick Lyons

Climbed as a three, rock soaking, cloud and mist everywhere and blowy. 1st pitch and 3rd. 4c, 4c, 4a but that doesn't tell the story! Old school climbing before a jaw dropping finish. Very awkward to protect the final belay/step across i.e. don't. Clip the bolts, step a cross, get lowered then repeat for the 2nd.
Zoomer - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/12 with A Student

Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Conan Harrod

Conan - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Ken Taylor

Lead pitch 1. Terrified at the top--far too scared to jump!
JenDurden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/11 with Max

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/11

Quality route with some great summit views. Led all three pitches. Top of 1st pitch & first moves of second pitch warrent a 4c in my eyes rather than 4b grades quoted in Rockfax. Declined the jump across the blocks as it looked terrifying and therefore opted to step across which was difficult enough. Then more difficulties trying to step back across to the ab point on the higher block. All good fun.
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/11 with Polly Gardiner

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/11

Film duty, training the Norwegian sport climber into trad ways :-)
bridget143 - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Toby Dunford, Mikkel

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Mikkel, Bridget Hall

Ztephan - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with Marius

Led pitch 2
John Roe - AltLd - 11/Aug/09 with Marshall Kinnear

joeydurkin - AltLd - 05/Aug/09 with Patch

Roch - AltLd - 30/Jul/09 with MRT

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/09

Ing - 2nd - 06/Jul/08 with Stevie G & James

Hexman - AltLd - 01/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/08

I thought that this was a poor route. Rope drag was a pain on the last pitch.
TonyB - AltLd - 04/Jun/08 with Simon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/07

Elsier - 2nd O/S - Jul/07 with Stuart

mattpw - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Juha Kaupilla

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches
Jody - Lead O/S - May/05 with Erik

Erkke - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Anders, Jody

frotveit - AltLd - 18/Jul/03

First route in Lofoten! The leap across was certainly the highlight, not least as we did not land in the cemetery.
chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/03 with Clare Wilkie

TobyA - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/98 with Elina

granitbahn - AltLd - Jul/88

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, poeter210

Voting
Total votes cast 18
hard n5-0 of 1
n5-0 of 1
easy n5-0 of 1
hard n4+0 of 1
n4+1 of 1
easy n4+0 of 1
hard n40 of 1
n40 of 1
easy n40 of 1
3 Stars6 of 7
2 Stars1 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead11 of 41 (26.8%)
Followed5 of 41 (12.2%)
Alt Leads23 of 41 (56.1%)
Unknown2 of 41 (4.9%)

'Climbed'13 of 41 (31.7%)
clean O/S28 of 41 (68.3%)