No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: 3 star Scottish winter, Top Mid-Grade Scottish Winter.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 09/Mar Lead O/S
Chad123 05/Mar AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, great fun, in perfect condition at the moment too, first pitch has plenty of gear and some cool turf corner moves followed by a cool Boulder problem finish, definitely easier to use hands not axes. Second pitch is just as good, and great contrast being mostly fat ice in a wild position. Always a pleasure climbing with the legend that is Bart Shaw! Go do it before it melts! Probably more like VI 6 or VI 7 as others suggest, not sustained enough to be a VII. Watch out for the tricky IV pitch too, made me think!

tebs 05/Mar AltLd O/S

Brilliant route which did almost too good a job of feeding the rat. Both pitches as good as any I've done in winter. I led top pitch which was steady once I'd got all the negative self talk out of my system at the start! Deployed the new 10cm screw (thanks Outside in Hathersage, top recommendations and advice that's second to none) although a couple of 14cms went in ok and there's good rock gear at the start. First pitch was awesome. Chad floated up it like a dropped belay glove caught in a gusty updraught. Crux traverse superb. Feet high and crank! Ski toured up Beinn an Dothaidh for afters. No style prizes won on the way down unfortunately...

with Chad
RM199 05/Mar 2nd O/S

Lead middle grade 4 pitch

Northern Mountain Monkey 05/Mar Lead O/S

Cracking route and cracking line! Certainly one of the best that I've done in the Southern Highlands and indeed anywhere!

Hidden 02/Mar AltLd O/S
stuart34 02/Mar AltLd O/S

P2 just the link pitch Adam was the rope gun gun

Andrew Wilson 28/Feb AltLd O/S

Really good all the way. Led 2 and 3.

with Matt Nuttall
machars 28/Feb AltLd O/S

Great route.

with Ben Smith
mattnuttall 28/Feb AltLd O/S

In superb condition, solid turf, dry rock and fat ice at the top. Stunning day too. Pleasing :-)

MichaelGallimore 28/Feb AltLd O/S

Led the tiny 10m dogleg pitch in the middle. (Felt like mixed IV) Super conditions on the upper ice. The lower pitches looked thin from below but once on route it was definitely winter condition. Lots of turf and moss to hook on. Hand traverse at the end of p1 was exciting!

with Andy Cmc
Hidden 28/Feb AltLd O/S
harry_lewis 27/Feb AltLd O/S

Only led the link up pitch in the middle. Awesome route

MSchobitz 27/Feb AltLd O/S

Led P1&3. Great route in fantastic condition, with gear when you start to want some. Ice pitch was still pretty tenuous, but apparently very fat. Probably one of the best routes I've done (summer or winter).

graeme gatherer 24/Feb -
with Steve Elliot
Misha 14/Feb AltLd O/S

Great line, great route. Did in two pitches, I led the mixed P1 and Mark did the icy P2, that worked fine on 50m ropes starting from a good ledge directly below the corner which we gained from the right. Good conditions with well frozen turf on P1 and just enough climbable ice on P2. 4 hours on the route and 7 hour round trip from the road, sunny on the walk in and out, hardly any wind and just a brief snow shower - perfect! It's not hard for VII, may be only VI 7 but I'll take the grade! Crux traverse was fine, good though slightly directional axes on flatties and the feet are only sketchy for a couple of moves. Well protected as you can get a sling on a spike half way along and it's only a few meters across anyway. P1 below the crux is very turfy, some steep moves (hardest bit is off the deck! probably tech 7) but lots of turf ledges so not tiring, with good though slightly spaced gear (or take bulldogs). P2 had rock gear to start, Mark then got a good 10cm screw, an old peg and some rock gear but pretty spaced and the ice wasn't the best - easy to second but required a careful approach on lead - VI 5 for that pitch would be fair.

with Mark S
euanryan 12/Feb AltLd O/S

Great route, worth all 3 stars. Top is lean just now, felt extremely serious with very little gear past the first 15ft. Small cornice to tunnel through at the top also.

with Willis
Willismorris 12/Feb Lead O/S

lead p1 and 2 joint together, amazing!

with euanryan
D.Russell 17/Jan AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Awesome route. Soft for the grade.

with Ramon
Ramon Marin 17/Jan AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 and the ice pitch 3, Dougie did a great job on pitch one, specially the dyno at the end of the hand traverse! The ice pitch was fun, ice on the thin side but loads of gear and placements, about Wi3+/4 so fairly straight forward. I placed load of rock gear on the first 3rd of the pitch, and then two stubbies and a bulldog and a crap peg for the rest. If I had 4 stubbies I would have place them all, I'm still learning this Scottish stuff, this was only my 6th route up here in Scotland.

with Dougie
Hidden 15/Jan AltLd O/S
Brian Pollock 13/Jan Lead O/S

Excellent route. Tough conditions. Lots of powder and not all the turf was frozen despite the cold weather. Enough of it was where you needed it but definitely less than ideal and could do with a freeze thaw. Also, be aware there isn't alot of ice on the top pitch, just enough to get by but the top section is very serious at the moment with no gear.

J_Trottet 13/Jan 2nd O/S

Fun crux on first pitch. Didn't fancy the look of the thin ice on top pitch so let Brian go for it.

Hidden 02/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Fatherof2 02/Mar/15 -

Wild weather. Brilliant route. Axes on hand traverse !

with Ian, Chris Fisher
Hidden 03/Feb/15 AltLd
Hidden 03/Feb/15 AltLd
robertmichaeladams 31/Jan/15 AltLd

Very nice, contrasting pitches. Lots of ice on the top pitch

with Fiona
Hidden 23/Jan/15 2nd
GraMc 23/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Great climbing. Really grade VI though surely?... I linked 1 and 2 together.

with Stewart, Tim
Timothy Miller 23/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
with Gra ham
tomdude 21/Jan/15 AltLd

Slipped off on the verglassy hand traverse, found the drier holds in the end. Brilliant climb. Led top two pitches as one.

with Rich Abel
The old James turnbull 18/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Mega, more than one screw could have tamed the run out on the top pitch!

with rich howells
Nick Clement 17/Jan/15 AltLd
with Paul Figg
Paul Figg 17/Jan/15 AltLd

Lead 1st pitch, Nick ran 2nd, 3rd pitch together. Don't forget the ice screws. 2 great contrasting pitches.

LeviG ??/2015 -
phil64 22/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Tons of snow,lots of spindrift, hard going and a big avalanche over to right, more scary than the climb!

with chris thorn
Ken Applegate 15/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Great route, top pitch could have done with more ice, rather than verglas smears!

with Rich Parker
Hidden 01/Dec/12 Lead dnf
frost 14/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with D Almond
Dave Almond 14/Mar/11 AltLd
Neil Adams 27/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Excellent route. I led P1 & P2 (as one pitch - don't believe the guidebook) and Andy led P3.

andyinglis 27/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Great route, bit sketchy at times! Lead P3.

Ian Jones 23/Dec/10 2nd O/S

My 15th winter route. Just getting the hang of this crampons on rock palava. No bad.

Hidden 23/Dec/10 Lead
dj_brigham05 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
rclarke 24/Feb/10 2nd dnf

started climbing at 12ish, i arrived at the top of pitch at 3pm. we abbed off as it was too late. shame, it would have gone we think. cool first pitch, never too bad

with Don
stevebarratt 29/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Rob Bryniarski
Ally Baba 02/Jan/10 AltLd

Stupidly tried used my tools on the hand traverse! Fell off whilst seconding. The rest was good and really enjoyable.

with M.Hartree,
2ba 02/Jan/10 AltLd
akhughes ?/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

I linked 2nd and 3rd pitch. awesome route. only VI, 6

with Steptoe
Hidden 23/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Andy Clark 23/Dec/09 AltLd
with Burnsie
Ian Parnell 20/Dec/09 -
with Simon Yearsley, Malcolm Bass
Malcolm Bass 20/Dec/09 AltLd
with Ian Parnell, Simon Yearsley
Ed Booth 01/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch. good route. Ice in top groove. Turf very well frozen.

with will sim
Simon Yearsley 20/Nov/09 AltLd
with Ian Parnell, Malcolm Bass
French Erick 12/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Awesome route. Very contrasting pitches. Outrageous moves on the hand traverse not that hard at all. p2 and p3 ran together. Mostly thinnish but good ice, reasonable pro until the last 8m of the steep bit. Required just to get on with it.

with Andy Sharpe
Hidden ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
a_hein ??/2004 AltLd O/S

My first scottish winter lead...very nice!

with Viv Scott
Stuart the postie ?/Feb/96 -
with Scott Muir
Hidden ?/Feb/94 AltLd
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Voting
High VIII
Mid VIII
Low VIII
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Votes cast 25
High 8
Mid 8
Low 8
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set