Restricted Access
The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
15m.
Climb boldly up the left arete until a small niche is reached, gear, and it is possible to traverse right to gain the top groove of La Bête Noir, finish up this.
(Variation: continue direct up the arete to finish with technical moves, avoiding the small tree. T.Exely and W.Hornby)
(Variation: continue direct up the arete to finish with technical moves, avoiding the small tree. T.Exely and W.Hornby)
Paul Twomey, Ali Wade, "Mad" Jim Adamson 22/Apr/1994.
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Route of Interest
Equipoise (old trad version)
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Berry Head Quarry)