Pelvoux Traverse*** PD
[Abseiling over a bergschrund on the Violettes Glacier, 3 kb]An absolutely classic expedition. Approach via the Pelvoux hut, then the Coolidge couloir (beware falling climbers as last section can now be very icy early in the season and then descend via the Violettes glacier and some dubious mixed ground lower down.

Ticklists: Top quality Alps under 4000m.

Photo: Abseiling over a bergschrund on the Violettes Glacier © Misha
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Left the hut at 0400, on the summit by 0600. Got down to Ailefroide around 1400.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/14 with Lawrence Dudley, Tom Starks

Hidden - Jul/14

a bit of an epic
bvilsue - 26/Jun/14 with John D, Rob, Tomek, Sebastian

augustus trout - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/13 with Stevie G

nking100 - 2013

Gibbo - 27/Jul/12 with Rich Abell

Hidden - Jul/12

Katie Marshall - 2nd - 24/Jun/12 with Vanessa, Dominique, Jérémy, Yohann

Steve Woollard - AltLd - 25/Aug/11 with Kevin Colclough

Left Ailefroide quite late on the 11th, and walked into the Pelvoux Hut. Soloed the Couloir Coolidge, which was quite straight forwards. The descent via the Violettes Glacier was far more technical, and not obvious in places. Be prepared for a long descent!
Ken Applegate - Solo - 12/Aug/11 with Scott Kirkhope

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/11

Superb, up the couloir, which was in good condition, but didn't prevent some randoms from taking a loose rock exit and giving us all a barrage. Take care on the final exit from the vire d'Ailefroide which has steep snow on it, tackling this is preferable to avoiding it on the side, one member of our party was injured by a big rock moving here.
Sankey - 31/Jul/10 with Ed, Andy E

Did with MT and newfound French friend Laurent. Not easy to find the quickest way down - according to the hut warden there are five abseils to get off, we ended up doing seven. A classic - the route of the trip.
JGW - Jul/10 with Matt Tilley

Descent via the Violettes Glacier after doing the Mettrier Couloir, Complicated - 8 abseils in total, including one over a shrund off an in situ rock buried in the snow. 5 hours up (bit slow, had to wait for Dave and Mike) and 10 down (slow as there were three of us and lost at least an hour waiting for a party of four ahead of us on the abseils - however guidebook time for the descent of 3 - 5 hours still looks very optimistic!).
Misha - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/09

Calder - 11/Jul/09 with Mark

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/09 with Calder

a classic expodition. taking in every aspect of mountaineering.
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/08 with joe

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/08

Mark Walter - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Ed and Trish

Great route in ascent, but beware the long and involved descent. My partner became ill on descent which made things a lot worse. Even after finishing the climb proper, I found that descending in the dark on the exposed scrambling on the steep cliff to reach the valley bottom (with a weak partner) was nerve-racking. Also we couldn't get water at the hut or descend into the stream but got water from puddles (probably why my mate got ill).
nickdonohue - Lead - Oct/07 with Colin Morrison

really good although tricky all the way to the valley not a place to lose the "path" above huge hanging slabs
Rjukan - Jul/07 with Tom P

tom.e - Jul/07 with Sam Bennett

Mr Powly - Jul/07 with Chris Wall

The guidebook mentions 2 abseils - there are now 9 of them, due to decreased snow levels. A fantastic and serious day, took us 15 and a half hours from hut to campsite, not bad considering there were 5 of us on one rope.
Simon Caldwell - 25/Aug/06 with Carmen, Alan K, Peter, and Mike

Hidden - Jul/05

Ian JL - AltLd O/S - Jul/04 with Duncan Henderson

Dave Toseland - Solo - 06/Aug/01 with Huw, Bill

Hidden - 1996

mike kann - 1995

jim_randell - Solo O/S - 29/Aug/94 with MS, SL2, WW

Nick Biven - 15/Jul/86 with Cast of thousands

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
PeteMc, islandlynx, Ronan O Keeffe, Andrew Barker, punj, mickey_boy, alexanderpatton

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Style of ascent

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