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|Devon > Chudleigh Rocks >|
|Whoremoans Erect|| E5 6a|
|10m. This route was previously described on here as Whoremoans, however it has come to light that the description does not actually match Whoremoans, and that the route as described below (ie heading straight up / left of the rib above the peg) is a notch easier than Whoremoans proper (moving right above the peg to gain the slab finish of Harvestman). Name and grade proposed 2010, it is unsure how many of the recent ascentionists followed this line and how many followed the proper guidebook description.
A rarely repeated route up the rib on the far left, a serious route. Strenuous climbing on good holds leads to a peg; which can be backed up by nuts and cams at half height. From here the climbing gets fiercely technical, using crimps and fingertip sidepulls gain the stalactite hold to the left of the rib. From here easier, but very scary, climbing leads to the top.|
This climb is in 5 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.
found the top rope straight forward have broken my ancle since will lead as soo as its better.
nice route lil bit technical
Tom D - TR - Sep/10
Can't understand why the original route didn't take this line. Very cool climbing, good to get it clean. Would be a scary lead.
Jon_Warner - TR RP - 25/Jul/10 with Tom
Don't know if this was the first ascent (probably not) but I've taken the liberty of naming it. Could be E6 6a, so watch out.
DJonsight - Lead RP - Jun/09
Worked out every move. . The peg would prevent a groundfall on the two crux moves, however, climbing past the stalactite hold is still 6b/+ ish, with groundfall potential.
Also, the start is suprisingly strenuous!
Jon_Warner - TR dog - 28/Mar/09 with Shunt
After a bit of gardening it was getting dark, and very small holds - but not utterly desperate. Possible.
Jon_Warner - TR dnf - 15/Apr/08 with Tom
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
misterb, Dave Searle