UKC

650m, 9 pitches. A monster ice line forming down the central ravine on Hesten. The first ascensionists gave a length of 350-400 m for the route, however from the intro ice it is closer to 650 m. There are a number of exit options, the far left is likely WI5, the direct left finish underneath the overhang then trending right is WI4. A wall of ice also likely forms just to the right of this exit at WI5. The right hand gully exit can be climbed at WI3 or steep WI4 to 4+, again a steep wall also appears to form on the right of this exit with a grade closer to WI5. Regardless of the option you choose the route features excellent climbing throughout with some of the most fantastic positions, views over Bergsbotn and the surrounding mountains of Motind, Finnkona and Litjemoa. Easiest and safest descent is directly down the ice. Caution should be taken with snow conditions as the faces to the left and right shed snow regularly. There are also a number of quite prone snow fields that also form on the route.

Tor-Henrik & Trym S?land Feb/2006.

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High WI-5
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Route of Interest
Tunnel Cuddling

Grade: WI-4+ ***
(Svarthola)

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