|The easiest route on the face. Despite the poorer quality of rock midway through the route and the somewhat discontinuous nature, the upper pitches feature some lovely climbing.|
Start on the right-hand side of the pyramid, by a cemented ring, at the left edge of a triangular-shaped slab bordered on its right by a prominent gully.
1) III+, 30m. Ascend the ramp to the right easily following the more solid rock to a comfortable stance.
2) IV, 45m. Continue in the same line, overcoming a short vertical section, ignoring red markers up a crack (harder variant). Continue to reach the arete.
3) IV, 40m. Reach the arete and follow this for a short way. Climb poor rock just right of the arete then move back left of the arete onto easier ground and a good stance below a slab.
4) IV, 40m. Climb the slab direct to reach a small ledge right on the edge of the arete.
5) III+, 30m. Climb the arete on excellent rock to reach a red painted arrow.
6) IV, 40m. Climb the wall above with enjoyable climbing, then follow the grassy ridge just left of the arete.
7) III, 35m. Climb a short slab to reach a vegetated ledge. Via en Coulisse joins here. Continue past the bolt belay and keep left of the arete then follow a ramp left to a good stance.
8) IV, 40m. Climb an enjoyable corner to the next ledge, then continue direct up a corner-crack. Climb excellent rock direct to a comfortable belay.
9) IV-, 30m. Continue with a final few moves of enjoyable climbing to exit onto a ledge near the via ferrata cable and just below the summit. © ROCKFAX
A very loose route with a good 4b move up a small headwall at about half hight.
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