|100m+. Stunning climbing, weaving across the entire face of Diablo. This mini-expedition ventures to half-height in places, and could perhaps be better described as a girdle, with the preferred direction seemingly right to left (looking in). Because it is such a lengthy outing, it naturally falls into four sections, with three excellent rests en-route. 1) 6b. Climb leftwards from the easy way down, to gain the rest in the Afroman start cave. 2) 7a+. The crux pitch. Traverse leftwards out of the cave, and embark on a lengthy and sustained downclimb to gain the low traverse across the centre of the crag. (An alternative has now been added, at the same grade: keep low onto a block feature, and make desperate moves off it to gain the original line.) 3) 7a. Climb leftwards, gaining more and more height, until the big recess at the finish of Iguanadon is gained. A very steep and pumpy pitch, and not much easier than the second one. 4) 6b+. The final pitch is juggy and nicely sustained, heading across the steep wall to gain easier ground left of The Italian Job. Your choice is now to either finish for that route, or up the easier but less safe wall to the left. It's also possible to traverse all the way out, to reach the conglomerate bowl-cave to the south. © ROCKFAX|
Ken Palmer, Grant Farquhar Oct/2001
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