Rockfax Description
100m+. Stunning climbing, weaving across the entire face of Diablo. This mini-expedition ventures to half-height in places, and could perhaps be better described as a girdle, with the preferred direction seemingly right to left (looking in). Because it is such a lengthy outing, it naturally falls into four sections, with three excellent rests en-route. 1) 6b. Climb leftwards from the easy way down, to gain the rest in the Afroman start cave. 2) 7a+. The crux pitch. Traverse leftwards out of the cave, and embark on a lengthy and sustained downclimb to gain the low traverse across the centre of the crag. (An alternative has now been added, at the same grade: keep low onto a block feature, and make desperate moves off it to gain the original line.) 3) 7a. Climb leftwards, gaining more and more height, until the big recess at the finish of Iguanadon is gained. A very steep and pumpy pitch, and not much easier than the second one. 4) 6b+. The final pitch is juggy and nicely sustained, heading across the steep wall to gain easier ground left of The Italian Job. Your choice is now to either finish for that route, or up the easier but less safe wall to the left. It's also possible to traverse all the way out, to reach the conglomerate bowl-cave to the south. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description

Ken Palmer, Grant Farquhar Oct/2001

Ticklists: 40 Essential DWS routes in Mallorca, ROCKFAX Mallorca: Top 50, Mallorca DWS ticklist of Desire.

John Tanner 18/Oct DWS dnf
dbrooks 18/Oct DWS dnf

did the first pitch in very greasy conditions, didn't get very far on the crux pitch

Bristoldave 17/Oct DWS dnf
with Derwood, John Tanner
hankyc 13/Oct DWS G/U
GuyVG 18/Sep DWS O/S

pitch one

with Hans, Titty and Wolfgang
Adam Booth 18/Sep Solo O/S

Reversed from Ejector seat ledge to Afroman ledge. Pumped as sin!

valecoastclimber 17/Sep Solo β
soph 17/Sep DWS β
quiffhanger 17/Sep Solo rpt

Just the first pitch in nasty conditions. Not sure I've ever been so pumped...

with Soph
Rachel Slater 15/Sep DWS dnf

Splashdoooown on pitch 2. Felt nails and so greasy! Tim shouting beta from the water probably got me a few moves further than I would have otherwise.

tim newton 15/Sep DWS dnf
nathanlee ?/Sep DWS O/S

First two pitches

with Smash Crew
AlexD 02/Oct/14 Solo dnf
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 02/Oct/14 Solo dnf
with Alex
quiffhanger 20/Sep/14 Solo rpt

Just the crux "pitch" to get into the lobster cave.

i_a_coops 17/Sep/14 Solo
Ed Booth 02/Sep/13 Solo O/S
Boy ?/Sep/13 Solo

First 2 pitches

Gus ?/Sep/13 Solo
with stag ministers
Alice.001 24/Oct/12 Solo dnf
Jeronimo 25/Sep/12 Solo
quiffhanger 25/Sep/12 Solo β

Virtually on my own in 'interesting' conditions. 2hour epic!

James Mitchelmore 20/Sep/12 Solo O/S

just did 1st 6b pitch right to left into cave

Chad123 18/Oct/11 Solo O/S

P1 only, awesome steep juggy action....

dswansonlow 11/Sep/11 Solo dnf
with Dan Barbour
Hidden 28/Sep/10 Solo dnf
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Solo dnf
Richard Horn 15/Sep/07 Solo dnf

Pitch 1,2 only. Jumped from cave on pitch 3 due to very poor conditions.

Hidden 14/Sep/07 Solo β
feilx ?/Sep/07 Solo RP
Cassidy ?/Sep/07 Solo β
with The Sutton Stag Do
feeko ??/2006 -
Bern ?/Sep/05 Solo RP
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Rosie Wilson, Hidden
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 4
High S1
Mid S1
Low S1
High S0
Mid S0
Low S0
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set