10 pitches. A long line (of 10 pitches) up the right hand side of the pillar forming the west wide of the lower gorge, facing El Recodo. Gain the base from abseiling down by Acuario and scramble accross. A couple of long slings are handy for making the rope run well on the scramble pitches (8 & 10). From the top, walk off diagonally, heading for Cots Medios. Although only graded Fr6b+, pitch 7 is perhaps the most challenging.

Dan724 22/Oct AltLd O/S

Soloed pitch 1, simul climbed pitches 2,3,8 & 9. Led pitches 4 (6c),5 (6c+) and 7(6b+) Very polished and greasy through the overhang but brilliant climbing. The pitches after the overhang were also pretty spectacular and were harder than expected. A really adventurous feel with all the old pitons between the bolted belays and the acres of exposure.

with Soeren
slowmotion 28/Apr AltLd

Lives up to the hype does old zeppelin. Although the caminito tourists are a bit off putting. Nice onsight for jonny p!

with jonny P
funsized 28/Apr AltLd O/S

A perfect end to 8 months in El Chorro!

with Fi
shed_hed 11/Mar AltLd dog

What a route and what a battle! Every pitch felt hard, starting with the second pitch - where are the footholds?! Nearly came off leading the 6c traverse pitch, the 6c+ pitch proved too much with the pack and baking in the sun still wearing a jumper and I fell off a few times, and nearly came off on the pitch after that. Was a furnace in the gorge today but was expecting it to be cold so took too many clothes and not enough water. Was absolutely exhausted and dehydrated by the top. Would not recommend trying to run the 6c and 6c+ pitches together, the rope drag would be terminal. Alternated leads, I led P2. Took around 8 and a half hours walking door to door from the Olive Branch.

with Dave (Olive Branch)
dprctr 11/Mar AltLd dog

No wind on the gorge made this surprisingly hard. Some incredibly polished holds on both the 6c and 6c+ pitches. 6c+ pitch was hard to get established on from the cramped belay. Hard day out but a proper adventure. Great views and nice peace at the bottom of the gorge amongst the boulders.

madeleine ?/Jan AltLd

Amazing day out! Epic top 6b pitch.

with Henry
MischaHY 25/Oct/14 Lead

What a brilliant, intense experience.

Michael Allday 17/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/14 -
Hidden 17/Apr/14 AltLd dog
drysori 17/Apr/14 AltLd

Rusty bolts on the crux pitch. Great adventure.

with Sue
papashango 21/Mar/14 AltLd RP

fell off roof, did it 2nd go.

with Elliot
Shawty ?/Mar/14 AltLd RP
with Conor
Ed Babs 28/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

P2, 4, 5, 6 (trad@HVS?), 7, 9 & 10. Superb. Railway approach. Abseiling off the walkway looks like a nightmare.

with Magnus
KKilroy 21/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. No need to carry any gear really...only the 6th pitch (5+) needs some care to locate the correct line of pegs, threads and the odd bolt. (Look right of the tree).Don't run pitches together. ..the drag is wild. U can easily walk down from the alcove in the tunnels to the base of the route.

with Eamon Quinn
Macleod 12/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome route. Got lost at the top of the 6c+ pitch and traded to the start of the 6b+ crack/groove.

with dominic
Hidden 06/Nov/13 AltLd dog
Hidden 25/Oct/13 Lead O/S
cmoxon 12/May/13 AltLd dog

Absailed in from railway bridge. Did not seem to be any guards around but was a Sunday. Lovely Climb but harder pitches a bit out of my league. Andrew lead 4th, 5th and 7th pitches (the harder ones). I seconded these - dogged with aid. Dragged pack up the 4th pitch which made a big difference. Onsighted the other pitches though which are much easier. At the top of the 5th pitch there is a long traverse which is quite unprotected for the second and needs some care.

with Andrew Barnes
Hidden 06/Jan/13 AltLd
adam 24 ?/Jan/13 AltLd
Charlie Zephyr Booth ??/2013 -
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Trevera 03/Feb/12 2nd
with nick sillem
Bargate_Champ 06/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
jgustafsson 29/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, thanks kev for a great day out. Strung together pitch 1&2, 4&5 and 6&7. The last 6b pitch possibly the most enjoyable of all. The 2 crux pitches should definitely be done in one if the seconding climber is comfortable.

with Kevin
Kevster 29/Dec/11 AltLd dog

The 6c+ pitch with a pack proved too much for the fingers! Great route though.

Hidden 23/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
bigdrew 23/Dec/11 AltLd

Fell off 6c roof pitch

with Liam
Hidden 22/Dec/11 AltLd
chrism225 ?/Dec/11 AltLd
with tom
thomb ?/Dec/11 Lead dog

P5 not a lot of fun. Dogged after slicing my finger open. Amazing final pitches though, overall an awesome route.

with Sari
mwatson ?/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
chriscarroll 27/Apr/11 AltLd dog
Tom Livingstone 27/Apr/11 AltLd dog
owain86 ?/Apr/11 Lead dog
Tommy Cole ?/Apr/11 AltLd dog

Hairyest climbing experience so far!

quiffhanger ?/Mar/11 Lead dog
Chad123 17/Oct/10 AltLd

Bit of a long day out all in all, approach took ages as the abseils don't exist from Recondo and we had to ab of various single bolts and old trees - not recommended. The route has some great pitches in the top half and the start but the two hard pitches are either greasy/pumpy or on dodgy bolts so not as fun as the rest of the route. The 6b+ and 6b pitches at the top are the best by miles - don't go up the HVS groove - you miss the best pitch on the route! Why are the best bolts on the easiest pitches???

with Emily
jacobjlloyd 03/Jul/10 AltLd

Crux is the roof pitch, felt 6c+. Next pitch is only 6c. Useful advice: when belaying from the top of this pitch, hang down on a loop of rope or a 240 sling and you can see and communicate with your second. Useful, as there is plenty of rope drag. All the pitches are excellent in their own right. Really fantastic. Fell through the roof (one hard move to a smooth flat jug - reachy and powerful) but got back on, reversed and did the pitch clean. Contrary to the description, the 6b+ pitch felt fine, not hard for the grade, and it was raining while I led it. Technical and imaginative moves, but not hard.

with Dougie
dswansonlow 03/Jul/10 Lead RP
Phil Jennings 05/Apr/10 AltLd dog

tad cold lower section

BorisVBlade 03/Apr/10 AltLd RP

Inspiring Route. P1 4+ & P2 6a+ Lead O/S in one pitch, P3 5+ Second O/S, P4 6c Second with one rest before pulling onto the belay, P5 6c+ Second O/S, P6 5+ Lead O/S, P7 6b+ Lead O/S, P8 3 Lead O/S, P9 6b Second O/S, P10 Lead O/S.

with Ryan Pedrigi
Will Hunt 01/Apr/10 AltLd

Abbed in from railway bridge. Definitely safer than coming in from Recodo. 60m rope does it fine. P1 (4+) - SJ led. Up a right trending groove past older bolts to a belay next to a tree. P2 (6a+) - WH led. Climb a puzzling slab past very shiny new staple bolts and some suspect looking but surprisingly solid rock. P3 (5) - SJ led. Past more good staples trending right to a belay on the left of the orange slab below the roof. P4 (6c) - WH led. Climb the orange slab to a juggy break in the roof. Traverse right on steep ground until you can clip the next belay on the lip. Clipping the belay proves to be the crux of this pitch! Good staple bolts all the way. P5 (6c+) - SJ led. From the belay on the lip traverse difficultly left to a rusty bolt. From this climb steepy through the wall above on some good and some not so good holds past bolts of a similar age to the first. Difficulties ease substantially after the third bolt. Trending slightly left will require some wires and careful movement on suspect rock before coming back right to a double bolt belay (not as new as the other belays). With the heavy bag on I used the first three bolts as points of aid. P6 (VS) - WH led. Trend up and right across the slab via cracks and some aging fixed gear (threads and pegs). Aim for a pair of bolts higher up below a crack in an obvious groove. Past these step right to a cluster of older bolts to belay. P7 (HVS) - SJ led. Step down and left from the belay past a bolt and a peg to a newer looking bolt at the foot of the obvious groove. Layback up this groove on good trad gear to top out on a ridge and a double bolt belay. P8 (3) - WH led. Walk along the ridge with the odd move of climbing here and there past some intermittent bolts. Belay by a tree on a fresh double bolt belay (the same staples as on the lower pitches). P9 (6b) - WH led. Climb to the top of a pinnacle then continue up occasionally using the arete past excellent bolts. P10 - SJ led. Climb easily along the ridge past the occasional bolt at the harder steps and a few wires if needed to a double bolt belay on a terrace next to Sector Las Nubes. A 70m rope will do this fine.

with Sean Jacobs
markalmack 25/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/10 AltLd dog
Lawrie Brand 25/Jan/10 AltLd

Epic. Heavy rain started on pitch 7 and temp dropped about 15 degrees. Lots of aid, night climbing, shivering, swearing and general suffering ensued. Good fun - in retrospect..

with Gaz, Tom
richiebongo 19/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
MonkeyDawson ?/Jan/10 AltLd
with Jamie, Bob Foster
Gazleah ?/Jan/10 Lead dog

Caught out by a wrong weather forecast, ended up leaving the wall at 10pm with a extremely bad description of the walk off from the rock fax book (says a scramble, its more like a severe with trad gear!) very cold walk home in hail at -6c

with lawrie brand, tom ireson
jamiefoxen ?/Jan/10 AltLd dog

unbalevable weather, vortex winds in the gorge and snow. hands like meat chops.

with Graham Dawson, bob foster
tom.ireson ??/2010 Lead dog

Lawrie summed it right up in his comment! long and epic day, would be a brilliant route in the dry but made for a real test of grit when the hail started and even more so when it got dark! Be warned - you pull your rope down from the bridge and that's it you're in for the long haul. Also when you top out on the 6th pitch (6b+)(where we got hit with the first bit of hail), you end up on a nice ledge looking up the arete. Look over the other side and get an idea of the terrain you will be coming down in case you get caught out in the dark, you will be glad of it.

Hidden ?/Dec/09 AltLd
burto 05/Apr/09 AltLd dog
with mike
mikecopp 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Ian B
Shaw Brown 20/Mar/09 AltLd

Had to pull on the draw at the start of the 6c+ pitch, plus a rest. Best day trip yet in Spain.

with Simon Palmer
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Glyn 11/Dec/08 -

Awesome! Roof is very hard for 6c! Not the rest day I was hoping for!

Hidden ?/Dec/08 AltLd
metal arms 14/Nov/08 -
Brown 20/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with Matt
stuwelly85 ?/Apr/07 AltLd dog
simonr ?/Apr/07 AltLd dog
mbutton ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Tris Fox
Smelly Fox 14/Oct/06 AltLd dog
with Mark Button
goi.ashmore 18/Oct/98 Lead O/S

Started with 1,5 hours of light left. Finished in the pitch black

with Roy Thomas
dan gibson ?/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Luis SD ??/1997 AltLd O/S
peterbull ??/1996 AltLd O/S
ste_d 15/Nov/94 AltLd O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 15/Nov/94 AltLd O/S
graham lawrie ??/1993 Lead
keefe 31/Dec/91 -
Hidden ??/1981 -
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High 7a
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Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Not Set