Malaga / El Chorro > El Chorro - Lower Gorge >
 
Zeppelin*** 6c+

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Mar de Venus >>
[Zeppelin, 2 kb]10 pitches. A long line (of 10 pitches) up the right hand side of the pillar forming the west wide of the lower gorge, facing El Recodo. Gain the base from abseiling down by Acuario and scramble accross. A couple of long slings are handy for making the rope run well on the scramble pitches (8 & 10). From the top, walk off diagonally, heading for Cots Medios. Although only graded Fr6b+, pitch 7 is perhaps the most challenging.

Photo: Zeppelin © XamaX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 64 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd dog - 17/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd RP - 21/Mar/14

Shawty - AltLd RP - Mar/14 with Conor

P2, 4, 5, 6 (trad@HVS?), 7, 9 & 10. Superb. Railway approach. Abseiling off the walkway looks like a nightmare.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/14 with Magnus

Amazing route. No need to carry any gear really...only the 6th pitch (5+) needs some care to locate the correct line of pegs, threads and the odd bolt. (Look right of the tree).Don't run pitches together. ..the drag is wild. U can easily walk down from the alcove in the tunnels to the base of the route.
KKilroy - AltLd O/S - 21/Nov/13 with Eamon Quinn

Awesome route. Got lost at the top of the 6c+ pitch and traded to the start of the 6b+ crack/groove.
Macleod - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/13 with dominic

Hidden - AltLd dog - 06/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/13

Absailed in from railway bridge. Did not seem to be any guards around but was a Sunday. Lovely Climb but harder pitches a bit out of my league. Andrew lead 4th, 5th and 7th pitches (the harder ones). I seconded these - dogged with aid. Dragged pack up the 4th pitch which made a big difference. Onsighted the other pitches though which are much easier. At the top of the 5th pitch there is a long traverse which is quite unprotected for the second and needs some care.
cmoxon - AltLd dog - 12/May/13 with Andrew Barnes

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jan/13

adam 24 - AltLd - Jan/13

Charlie Zephyr Booth - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12

Trevera - 2nd - 03/Feb/12 with nick sillem

Bargate_Champ - AltLd O/S - 06/Jan/12

Awesome route, thanks kev for a great day out. Strung together pitch 1&2, 4&5 and 6&7. The last 6b pitch possibly the most enjoyable of all. The 2 crux pitches should definitely be done in one if the seconding climber is comfortable.
jgustafsson - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/11 with Kevin

The 6c+ pitch with a pack proved too much for the fingers! Great route though.
Kevster - AltLd dog - 29/Dec/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Dec/11

Fell off 6c roof pitch
bigdrew - AltLd - 23/Dec/11 with Liam

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Dec/11

chrism225 - AltLd - Dec/11 with tom

P5 not a lot of fun. Dogged after slicing my finger open. Amazing final pitches though, overall an awesome route.
thomb - Lead dog - Dec/11 with Sari

mwatson - AltLd O/S - Dec/11

chriscarroll - AltLd dog - 27/Apr/11 with Tommy Cole

Tom Livingstone - AltLd dog - 27/Apr/11

owain86 - Lead dog - Apr/11 with Livingstone

Hairyest climbing experience so far!
Tommy Cole - AltLd dog - Apr/11 with Chris Carroll

quiffhanger - Lead dog - Mar/11

Bit of a long day out all in all, approach took ages as the abseils don't exist from Recondo and we had to ab of various single bolts and old trees - not recommended. The route has some great pitches in the top half and the start but the two hard pitches are either greasy/pumpy or on dodgy bolts so not as fun as the rest of the route. The 6b+ and 6b pitches at the top are the best by miles - don't go up the HVS groove - you miss the best pitch on the route! Why are the best bolts on the easiest pitches???
Chad123 - AltLd - 17/Oct/10 with Emily

Crux is the roof pitch, felt 6c+. Next pitch is only 6c. Useful advice: when belaying from the top of this pitch, hang down on a loop of rope or a 240 sling and you can see and communicate with your second. Useful, as there is plenty of rope drag. All the pitches are excellent in their own right. Really fantastic. Fell through the roof (one hard move to a smooth flat jug - reachy and powerful) but got back on, reversed and did the pitch clean. Contrary to the description, the 6b+ pitch felt fine, not hard for the grade, and it was raining while I led it. Technical and imaginative moves, but not hard.
jacobjlloyd - AltLd - 03/Jul/10 with Dougie

dswansonlow - Lead RP - 03/Jul/10 with Eugene Theron, jacob loyd

tad cold lower section
Phil Jennings - AltLd dog - 05/Apr/10 with Fergus Cuthill

Inspiring Route. P1 4+ & P2 6a+ Lead O/S in one pitch, P3 5+ Second O/S, P4 6c Second with one rest before pulling onto the belay, P5 6c+ Second O/S, P6 5+ Lead O/S, P7 6b+ Lead O/S, P8 3 Lead O/S, P9 6b Second O/S, P10 Lead O/S.
BorisVBlade - AltLd RP - 03/Apr/10 with Ryan Pedrigi

Abbed in from railway bridge. Definitely safer than coming in from Recodo. 60m rope does it fine. P1 (4+) - SJ led. Up a right trending groove past older bolts to a belay next to a tree. P2 (6a+) - WH led. Climb a puzzling slab past very shiny new staple bolts and some suspect looking but surprisingly solid rock. P3 (5) - SJ led. Past more good staples trending right to a belay on the left of the orange slab below the roof. P4 (6c) - WH led. Climb the orange slab to a juggy break in the roof. Traverse right on steep ground until you can clip the next belay on the lip. Clipping the belay proves to be the crux of this pitch! Good staple bolts all the way. P5 (6c+) - SJ led. From the belay on the lip traverse difficultly left to a rusty bolt. From this climb steepy through the wall above on some good and some not so good holds past bolts of a similar age to the first. Difficulties ease substantially after the third bolt. Trending slightly left will require some wires and careful movement on suspect rock before coming back right to a double bolt belay (not as new as the other belays). With the heavy bag on I used the first three bolts as points of aid. P6 (VS) - WH led. Trend up and right across the slab via cracks and some aging fixed gear (threads and pegs). Aim for a pair of bolts higher up below a crack in an obvious groove. Past these step right to a cluster of older bolts to belay. P7 (HVS) - SJ led. Step down and left from the belay past a bolt and a peg to a newer looking bolt at the foot of the obvious groove. Layback up this groove on good trad gear to top out on a ridge and a double bolt belay. P8 (3) - WH led. Walk along the ridge with the odd move of climbing here and there past some intermittent bolts. Belay by a tree on a fresh double bolt belay (the same staples as on the lower pitches). P9 (6b) - WH led. Climb to the top of a pinnacle then continue up occasionally using the arete past excellent bolts. P10 - SJ led. Climb easily along the ridge past the occasional bolt at the harder steps and a few wires if needed to a double bolt belay on a terrace next to Sector Las Nubes. A 70m rope will do this fine.
Will Hunt - AltLd - 01/Apr/10 with Sean Jacobs

markalmack - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/10 with gregg capon

Hidden - AltLd dog - 25/Feb/10

Epic. Heavy rain started on pitch 7 and temp dropped about 15 degrees. Lots of aid, night climbing, shivering, swearing and general suffering ensued. Good fun - in retrospect..
Lawrie Brand - AltLd - 25/Jan/10 with Gaz, Tom

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/10 with Nick Smith

MonkeyDawson - AltLd - Jan/10 with Jamie, Bob Foster

Caught out by a wrong weather forecast, ended up leaving the wall at 10pm with a extremely bad description of the walk off from the rock fax book (says a scramble, its more like a severe with trad gear!) very cold walk home in hail at -6c
Gazleah - Lead dog - Jan/10 with lawrie brand, tom ireson

unbalevable weather, vortex winds in the gorge and snow. hands like meat chops.
jamiefoxen - AltLd dog - Jan/10 with Graham Dawson, bob foster

Lawrie summed it right up in his comment! long and epic day, would be a brilliant route in the dry but made for a real test of grit when the hail started and even more so when it got dark! Be warned - you pull your rope down from the bridge and that's it you're in for the long haul. Also when you top out on the 6th pitch (6b+)(where we got hit with the first bit of hail), you end up on a nice ledge looking up the arete. Look over the other side and get an idea of the terrain you will be coming down in case you get caught out in the dark, you will be glad of it.
tom.ireson - Lead dog - 2010 with Lawrie Brand, Gareth Leah

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/09

burto - AltLd dog - 05/Apr/09 with mike

mikecopp - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Ian B

Had to pull on the draw at the start of the 6c+ pitch, plus a rest. Best day trip yet in Spain.
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 20/Mar/09 with Simon Palmer

Hidden - AltLd - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2009

Awesome! Roof is very hard for 6c! Not the rest day I was hoping for!
Glyn - 11/Dec/08

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/08

metal arms - 14/Nov/08

Brown - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/07 with Matt

stuwelly85 - AltLd dog - Apr/07 with Simon Robinson

simonr - AltLd dog - Apr/07 with Stuart Llewellyn

mbutton - Lead O/S - Mar/07 with Tris Fox

Smelly Fox - AltLd dog - 14/Oct/06 with Mark Button

Started with 1,5 hours of light left. Finished in the pitch black
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/98 with Roy Thomas

dan gibson - Lead O/S - Apr/98

Luis SD - AltLd O/S - 1997

peterbull - AltLd O/S - 1996

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 15/Nov/94 with mik

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 15/Nov/94 with Steven Delderfield

graham lawrie - Lead - 1993

keefe - 31/Dec/91

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
nickstephens, robbo99, Gibclimber, richardashe, dprctr, Hidden, funsized, Matt Smith, vix, wi11, Adam_42, Hidden, Hidden, Dan Lane, eivindf, jazzyjackson, DavidR, willworkforfoodjnr, PeteH, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 25
hard 7a0 of 13
7a0 of 13
easy 7a2 of 13
hard 6c+0 of 13
6c+11 of 13
easy 6c+0 of 13
hard 6c0 of 13
6c0 of 13
easy 6c0 of 13
3 Stars11 of 12
2 Stars1 of 12
1 Star0 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent

Lead13 of 64 (20.3%)
Followed1 of 64 (1.6%)
Alt Leads46 of 64 (71.9%)
Unknown4 of 64 (6.2%)

'Climbed'20 of 64 (31.2%)
clean O/S21 of 64 (32.8%)
clean RP4 of 64 (6.2%)
dogged19 of 64 (29.7%)