The Long Climb*** VS
[The Long Climb from below, 2 kb]420m, 11 pitches. A classic meandering line, best climbed after a few dry days and with good visibility. Start near the bottom of Minus One Gully and scramble up right for 60m until roughly half way between Minus One Gully and Zero Gully. This brings you to a point left of some overhangs 70m up and at the base of a wide slabby rib, underneath a more defined rib (Great Slab Rib) which has a white speckled sidewall to the left.
1. 45m 4a Climb the slabby rib on the crest or left hand side to a stance.
2. 30m 4b Traverse right onto the rib and climb this via parallel cracks to a small grassy ledge.
There now follows a long rising traverse up and right for about 100m across The Basin, mostly moving together except for a couple of moves up grooves to the base of the Second Slab Rib.
3. 40m 4b Climb the slab on the left edge avoiding a steepening by a detour left (4c direct). At the top of the slab move slightly right over clean rock trusting the holds until a small hanging slab is gained and belay above.
Now take a left rising traverse up ribs and corners passing behind a large block for about 50m until at the bottom right hand side of a large slab.
Take another left rising traverse for about 50m across the bottom of a series of slabs via cracks and corners.
Go up by a mossy corner to a large mossy terrace below the final headwall.
Either step down right from the terrace and climb flakes to easy ground (looks dirty but holds are clean) OR
Traverse easily left to the foot of the 40ft Corner and finish up North East Buttress.
JHB Bell, JDB Wilson 14/Jun/1940

Ticklists: Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!).

Photo: The Long Climb from below © Captain Solo
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This climb is in 77 logbooks, and on 203 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/15

Jontro - AltLd - 18/Aug/15 with Stuart Watson

ColdAndWet - AltLd - 14/Sep/14 with Jeremy Windsor

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/14

With 4c variations. First slab rib approach a bit greasy up the right hand groove, better on the left. Second slab rib excellent.
Captain Solo - Solo rpt - 22/Jul/14

Even better than I had dreamed of, bone dry and never harder than 4b. A long time coming but well worth the wait, interesting approach at the moment!
Captain Solo - Solo - 30/Jun/14

fantastic climbing most of the way, grade about right, long route and pretty serious, was,nt loads of gear, few pitons and tat higher up,done in 6 hours 30 mins, glad to get another classic tick!
Matthew Martin Wsm - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/14 with dave kenyon

Massive climb with a long snow approach. Had to jump off the bergschrund to get on to the rock. Mostly dry. Brilliant day out.
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14

mjackson - 15/Jun/14

James Thacker - 2014

Hidden - 2014

punj - AltLd - 20/Jul/13 with Steve Appleyard

In a word....shite! Bad holds, hard route finding, E2 gear, loose, wet in places, mossy, not a decent hold on the route! Unmemorable moves, not a decent pitch. Did it for the Classic Rock tick.... Good bits...topping out on the Ben, the views, climbing on the North face, fantastic weather, ending. Would not recommend!
beds74 - AltLd - 20/Jul/13 with Ray Sparks

Ray Sparks - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with paul

Climbed this on the same day as the chaps below and I have to say that we had a very different experience. Route finding was tricky but not impossible. The 2nd and 3rd pitches were excellent - dry grippy rock, loved the twin cracks. The easier climbing didn't really materialise but at least three pitches could be tackled by moving together rather than pitching to save time. It still took us 8 hours though. Hardly Uli Steck stuff!
Doc A - AltLd - 20/Jul/13 with Graham Wylie

Damn book sent us the wrong way after p7, great until then. Fear, rockfall and sketchy escape to observatory ridge ensued.
sprout3099 - 12/Jun/13 with Becky Wood

Excellent alpine way up the Orion Face, including a chossy, wet, snow-patchy, and loose route with complex routefinding. First ascent of the year?
olekemi - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Sam S

TheAndyBarker - 2013

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

TheAndyBarker - 2012

TheAndyBarker - 2012

Patzl - 2012

Patzl - 2012

Narked4fun - 2012

Steven Carter - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/11

Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - Apr/11 with Jim Tan

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

An aptly named route. The 4b second rib seemed punchy, even given 4c for the direct. I don't know where you go to finish that pitch, I ended up only (it was wet,) being able to traverse to the big ledge to the left, but found the route by traversing high and back right again, so there must be some way. The "easier climbing," of the final three pitches never materialised, there are many options and time is required to explore to find a do-able one. Good route, but tough.
jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/10 with Sian

SianR - 2nd - 25/Aug/10 with Jonnie

Very intimidating, very long, so long we missed the England match! Route finding very hard above Second Slab Rib, climbed some hard stuff on and around third slab. Swirling cloud, scary snow approach, slimy rock, some sensational pitches and a magnificent way for us to finish our Classic Rock ticks.
jimorothy - Lead - 12/Jun/10 with Rachel Crolla

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 09/Aug/09


jamieevans - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Euan Strachan - Sep/08

Grim weather, absolutely soaked by top of first pitch. Got to third pitch and bailed.
tom.ireson - Lead dnf - Jul/08 with Jens Verhagh

Hidden - 2008

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Bruce A Strachan

ewan i - AltLd dnf - 2008

What a fantastic route on a beautiful day. Best multi pitch climb i've done to date.
bomberharris - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/07 with Lee

westaway - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with Imelda Neale

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/07

alan wilson - 2007

maybe_si - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with jez

Jez - AltLd O/S - Aug/06 with Maybe_Si

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jun/05

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/04

Hidden - Apr/04

Rainy and slippy. Spent a lot of time wondering where the route was supposed to go around pitch 8/9. Fantastic climb, well worth it.
Nevis_Ben - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/03

9hrs of climbing across wet rocks/mud and grass
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/01 with Sam

luckyjim - AltLd - Aug/00

Hidden - 2000

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 07/Aug/99 with Brian Dickson, Gavin Rees

brianrunner - AltLd - Jul/99 with dave kerr

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/97

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/96

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Sep/95

First ever visit to Scotland with Ben Nevis and CMD via arete from the road and back in a long day.
Tenko - AltLd O/S - Jun/93 with Kev Wilson

mark mcgowan01 - 1992 with Ian Haliday

Hidden - AltLd - 1992

Aborted Attempt, abbed off in high wind and rain
Neil Henderson - Solo - Sep/91 with Billy webster

babymoac - Lead - 07/Jul/91 with Howard

Nigel Bond - Lead - 28/May/87 with Martin Cash

Hidden - AltLd - May/87

John HW - AltLd - Apr/86

biggianthead - 09/Jul/83 with HT

Lone Rider - AltLd - 13/Aug/77

Very hot, rock boots and shorts
uphillnow - Solo - Aug/70 with jim williams

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Total votes cast 20
hard HVS0 of 8
HVS0 of 8
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easy HS0 of 8
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