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St Vitus Dance*** 5.9

Adjacent Climbs
<< South arete
 
St Vitus Dance Direct Start >>
6 pitches. 5.9, 5.9, 5.9. Sustained crack climbing on the right hand side of the apron starting from a tree covered ledge. Take a decent selection of wide gear.
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 36 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Hidden - 10/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 10/Sep/13

simul climbed in 50 mins. led the top 3 pitches.
samrad - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with alix

Jack Loftus - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Nick

Jack Loftus - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13

JackMountains - AltLd rpt - 16/May/13 with Ben Snook

Ben Snook - AltLd - 16/May/13 with Jack Milton

Great fun!
bede.west - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/13

Brown - AltLd - Apr/13 with Lily

Pitch 1/3/5
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/12

Climbed with Julien, Led P1 (5.7), P3 (5.8), p4 (5.9) and P6 (easy 5th). A great route but not for the fainthearted or your beginner 5.9 climber! Found the 3rd 5.8 pitch to be scariest, placed all my big gear down low and had to "av it" up high on flaring jams, what was i thinking :S
Noodles - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/12

pigeonslipper - AltLd O/S - Aug/12

Approach for squamish buttress. With 70m rope it's possible to link 1&2 and 4&5 or 5&6.
tuukka - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/12 with Maija

danie - AltLd O/S - Jul/12 with nick baker, nick baker

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/12

will6459 - Lead O/S - Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/12

Jesse led through the first two pitches of trees and ledges. I led 50m 5.8 great climb, and after running out easy jamming plugged almost everything in the top half as my stamina wained. Jesse led the bold 5.9 pitch. I led the second 5.9 pitch which was one big confident hand jam.
Mike_Gannon - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/11 with Jesse Peterson

RossG - Aug/11

RossG123 - Aug/11

brilliant combined with direct start, and other pitches above
arose - AltLd - 10/Jul/11 with Ryan McDonald

Led p2,3 and p5. Pitch 3 was a long, hard, wide crack... made trickier by the rain! Pitch 4 is brilliant, awesome moves swapping cracks! Pitch 5 was a brutal but short overhanging crack. 1 fall when the rope stopped me getting my foot in. lowered to the slab and got clean.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - AltLd dog - 10/Jun/11 with Florence the Machine

First multipitch route in Squampton, very nice! Hard on the last 5.9 pitch
hetaher - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/11 with Duncan Campbell

JackMountains - AltLd dnf - 06/Mar/10 with Luke Townsend

Hidden - 2010

tlmarjot - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with James Marjot

Tim W - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/08 with Jamie Moss

mikecopp - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Dan Currie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08

the crux pitch (the penultimate one) has a pretty nasty sting in the tail!
gb83 - 2nd - 13/May/07 with Paul Cordy

reg_measures - AltLd O/S - 15/May/04 with Jeff

Didn't bring enough cams so it was "interesting" on the wide bits, some of which are 50m long. Have written in notes "best climb of grade in world?"
chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/02 with Dan Bailey

DafSWMC - AltLd - 23/Jun/99

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 13
hard 5.10a0 of 7
5.10a0 of 7
easy 5.10a0 of 7
hard 5.96 of 7
5.91 of 7
easy 5.90 of 7
hard 5.80 of 7
5.80 of 7
easy 5.80 of 7
3 Stars6 of 6
2 Stars0 of 6
1 Star0 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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Style of ascent

Lead6 of 36 (16.7%)
Followed1 of 36 (2.8%)
Alt Leads25 of 36 (69.4%)
Unknown4 of 36 (11.1%)

'Climbed'10 of 36 (27.8%)
clean O/S23 of 36 (63.9%)
clean rpt1 of 36 (2.8%)
dogged1 of 36 (2.8%)
dnf1 of 36 (2.8%)