Rockfax Description
The first pitch is scrappy, but the route is decent higher up if you want another severe or the classics are busy. Start below a broad rib.
1) 4a, 28m. Commit to the quartz-speckled slab - poor gear but easy - into a niche on the left. Move into the steep corner (sometimes damp) and climb up to a chockstone. Follow the crack up and right to a belay on a small ledge below the rib.
2) 4a, 23m. Move up and left to climb the rib direct in a fine position, to an awkward move to reach the belay on the left.
3) 4a. 18m. Climb up over slabs on the right to reach a vegetated terrace. Move left along this to a quartz-covered slab. Head up the quartz slab via a thin crack and move right to a finishing crack. Belay well back on blocks.
FA A.Moulam, J.Barr 11.4.1953 © Rockfax

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