Restricted Access
Ballygalley Golf Club have withdrawn their permission for climbing to carry on. Their fears stem from any liability they may have.
The FMCI has requested that any climbers exercise caution if climbing on the crag.
35m.
A fine climb recommended for stout of heart and long of limb.
This route follows the prominent arete in the center of the quarry face. Start at the base of a shallow groove to the right of the arete.
1) 10m. Ascend the shallow groove to belay in a little grassy corner.
2) 10m. Crux pitch. Move out left onto the arete and ascend the short wall on tiny holds. The arete tapers and offers a final narrow edge which is climbed with a considerable layback move on the ledge itself. Belay on a large block on the crest of the ridge above. This final move can be avoided by traversing left and up a little chimney.
3) 15m. Step left from the belay block into the obvious chimney in the wall behind and proceed to the top.
This route follows the prominent arete in the center of the quarry face. Start at the base of a shallow groove to the right of the arete.
1) 10m. Ascend the shallow groove to belay in a little grassy corner.
2) 10m. Crux pitch. Move out left onto the arete and ascend the short wall on tiny holds. The arete tapers and offers a final narrow edge which is climbed with a considerable layback move on the ledge itself. Belay on a large block on the crest of the ridge above. This final move can be avoided by traversing left and up a little chimney.
3) 15m. Step left from the belay block into the obvious chimney in the wall behind and proceed to the top.
D Cunningham. M Curran Nov/1969.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lizard Ollie | 27 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: P3 gully is just choss and there doesn’t seem to be any reasonable anchors unless they’re hidden in the vast bramble patch beyond. Probably best to descend via the in-situ tat at the top of P2 and leave P3 be | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: P3 gully is just choss and there doesn’t seem to be any reasonable anchors unless they’re hidden in the vast bramble patch beyond. Probably best to descend via the in-situ tat at the top of P2 and leave P3 be |
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| auld al | 7 Dec, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good climb, descend to the left past the top of "Agrippa" which is somewhat prickly, mayby worth bringing boots up with you. Worth V.S. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A good climb, descend to the left past the top of "Agrippa" which is somewhat prickly, mayby worth bringing boots up with you. Worth V.S. |
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