140m, 4 pitches.
I wrote a detailed description of the route on my own blog here: https://www.whilethegluedries.com/index.php/2022/03/08/lyngen-alps-backyard-adventures/
Since nobody knows its name we just refer to it as climb1 or chimney climb.
In short - this is the first from left (not counting the super-wide one on the very left) out of the 5 southern Istinden climbs seen from the road. We stayed at MIT-FAB-LAB - and its a sensible way to park there (69.49237122706718, 20.19645048682807) and walk the path.
The climb's first pitch goes in a chimney and can be easily recognized due to that feature.
The approach is by the path leading from MIT fab-lab (viking cabins) and then a steep snow slope. Worth bringing snowshoes, and then swapping to crampons when it gets really steep.
Technical summary:
Since we don’t know the route’s name, but definitely must have been climbed in the past, we just called it L1, WI4+, 145m.
P1 – WI3, 40m *chimney, screws belay on the right
P2 – WI4+, 30m - semi-hanging belay
P3- WI4, 25m, good belay to the left (in a mini 'cave')
P4 – WI4, 50m
Descent summary:
1. from a tree at the top of P4 – 50m to the level of the cave
2. from a tree to the top of P1 55m, to the top of P1.
3. abalakov ice thread from the top of p1, full 60m to the end of the rope, top of the ascent slope.
Since nobody knows its name we just refer to it as climb1 or chimney climb.
In short - this is the first from left (not counting the super-wide one on the very left) out of the 5 southern Istinden climbs seen from the road. We stayed at MIT-FAB-LAB - and its a sensible way to park there (69.49237122706718, 20.19645048682807) and walk the path.
The climb's first pitch goes in a chimney and can be easily recognized due to that feature.
The approach is by the path leading from MIT fab-lab (viking cabins) and then a steep snow slope. Worth bringing snowshoes, and then swapping to crampons when it gets really steep.
Technical summary:
Since we don’t know the route’s name, but definitely must have been climbed in the past, we just called it L1, WI4+, 145m.
P1 – WI3, 40m *chimney, screws belay on the right
P2 – WI4+, 30m - semi-hanging belay
P3- WI4, 25m, good belay to the left (in a mini 'cave')
P4 – WI4, 50m
Descent summary:
1. from a tree at the top of P4 – 50m to the level of the cave
2. from a tree to the top of P1 55m, to the top of P1.
3. abalakov ice thread from the top of p1, full 60m to the end of the rope, top of the ascent slope.
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Route of Interest
Far Left (don't know its name)
Grade: WI-4+ ***
(Istinden Icefalls)