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Traverse of the Breithorn*** AD

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Half Traverse (Western Half) >>
[Diego Cairns on the Traverse of the Breithorn, 3 kb]400m. A classic traverse of the summit ridge
G Crespi, E Frachey, G Frachey 28/Jul/1941

Photo: Diego Cairns on the Traverse of the Breithorn © Ben Tibbetts
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This climb is in 28 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

tscoobydoo - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/13

Set off from the Rossi Volante Hut at 0650, climbed the very icy slope to summit Roccia Nera by 0750. From there started the traverse. Eastern and Western Twins posed no problems but the abseils the guidebook mentioned were a bit longer. The rock steps were fine with some fun moves but wish I'd taken some more nuts and cams (i.e. any). Effectively soloed the last bit. Easily up the summit ridge and onto the Breithorn at 1250. A great traverse; E-W = Roccia Nera (4075m), Western Twin (4106m), Eastern Twin (4139m), Central Summit (4159m) and Western Summit/Breithorn (4164m).
Fast&Light - AltLd - 21/Aug/13 with Dave Love

Hidden - 01/Aug/13

keithlambley - 26/Jul/13 with Kate R

Henrik - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/13 with Stefan

In the AC guide, this is described as the traverse of the full Breithorn ridge. Thus, my route was from the KM cable car station (first lift 6:30am) across and along the glacier, and then the full ridge back from Roccia Nera. Good rock and ice, several abseils, a hefty ascent to the central summit (looks worse from a distance than it really is), and a few airy steps looking down the whole North Face under you. Speed is the key.
olekemi - Solo O/S - 16/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead - 11/Sep/12

Half traverse. Short and sweet. 4.5h lift to lift.
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Misha Gopaul

Jon Ellis - AltLd - 07/Aug/12 with James Ellis

Full traverse of all 5 summits after spending the night at the Rossi Volante bivi hut. 6:50 from the bivi to the KM lift station.
MartinN - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/12 with TimPerkin

TimPerkin - Lead - 27/Jul/12 with Martin Newman

avinash1981 - 2nd - Aug/11

bullwinkle - AltLd - 05/Jul/11 with Carla, Danny

Hidden - 04/Jul/11

edmitchell - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with kitty duncan

garethsteel - AltLd O/S - Sep/09 with benclimbing

Lovely route. Nice climbing on the rock sections and great views.
AJM - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Simon Goldman

kevburr - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Roger Payne

glaramara - Lead - Aug/09 with catherine doran, lex

Great day out, Fine exposure and nice climbing. Started from Testa Grigia which didn't add too much to trhe day.
Scott McRae - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/09 with Stefano

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead - Aug/08

sacdenouilles - AltLd - 08/Jul/08 with Graham Burns

Hidden - 23/Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/05

DerwentDiluted - AltLd - Aug/99 with Tim Stain

babymoac - 30/Aug/93

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Darkskys, Hidden, Hidden, Graham C, Alex Croall, Hidden, Hidden, David Qualtrough, vincentvega

Total votes cast 10
hard AD+0 of 5
AD+0 of 5
easy AD+2 of 5
hard AD2 of 5
AD1 of 5
easy AD0 of 5
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easy AD-0 of 5
3 Stars5 of 5
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 28 (3.6%)
Lead6 of 28 (21.4%)
Followed7 of 28 (25.0%)
Alt Leads9 of 28 (32.1%)
Unknown5 of 28 (17.9%)

'Climbed'18 of 28 (64.3%)
clean O/S10 of 28 (35.7%)