27m.
An eliminate, but very direct, line that takes on the harder climbing avoided by Nice Dream. Very good moves all the way from bottom to top. Would get *** if not so close to the easier climbing on Nice Dream. Start at the bottom of the approach abseil at the left end (looking up) of the very large flake underneath the Third Pillar. Step up left off the pointed split block. Make a wide bridge back right to a crack and up with difficulty to better holds. Follow the corner all the way to the quartz ledge. (Above the common section with Nice Dream use the holds on the arete and a layaway in the left wall of the corner where they run out.) Move up precariously to stand in a shallow scoop just left of the final corner of Nice Dream. Use an undercut above to start steep moves up and left to a finish up the quartz.
Harold Walmsley, Chris Calow 27/Aug/2022.
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Route of Interest
resurrection/erection
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Llechog (Cwm Clogwyn))