Rockfax Description
II, 250m. The second most popular route on the south face of the Midi and with good reason - the Contamine is the E4 climbers' version of the Rébuffat, with tough, well protected climbing. The route is often abseiled to avoid carrying sacks.
1) 6a, 20m. Start on the same ledge as the Rébuffat-Baquet and, as with that route, step left and climb the groove above for 8m to where it starts to move left. Instead of following it left, carry on straight up through an overlap and climb the slab for 5m to a belay.
2) 6a, 30m. Cross the slab diagonally leftwards to the foot of a short, steep corner-crack. Climb this and the crack above to a belay on the right of a large slab.
3) 6b, 45m. Climb the twin cracks above, following them 5m left of the crest of the arête to belay in a shallow notch above an overlap. There are some pegs in place to help with this pitch ,but it is sustained (and superb).
4) 5c, 45m. The corner above is easier but just as good. Follow the grooves to a series of ledges (often snowy) below an imposing corner-crack that splits a steep wall.
5) 6c+, 40m. Scramble up the ledges (5a) to the foot of the corner-crack (possible belay) and climb this. It looks okay from below but proves tough and is both thin and tenuous at the same time! Fortunately it is well protected throughout. The final move past a bolt at the end of the steep section is the technical crux and after this, easier padding up right following the wide flared crack leads to the belay on a ledge below more tough-looking steep ground.
6) 6b, 30m. Looks can be deceiving ... but in this case, they aren't! The crack and the slabby ground above it are hard and it has been known for some of the pegs to be pulled on by tired climbers with five tough pitches already below them. Once at the top of the slab, either abseil off or:
7) Climb an easy scrambling pitch up a shaded gully to reach the Rébuffat-Baquet.
8) 5c/A0 or 6b+, 25m. Follow pitch 10 of the Rébuffat-Baquet to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbed with Alex Marchant. Alternate leads, Alex led crux pitches. Good weather. 4 hours to top, then abseiled down and slog back to midi station.

Bron, Bozon, Contamine, Juge and Labrunie 01/Sep/1957


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 13/Sep AltLd
Hugh Irving 02/Sep AltLd O/S

Dream pitches in an awesome situation! Led the first two pitches in one and led the crux pitch. Pulled through the crux but had to sit on a peg near the end of the pitch.

with George, Noah
George Ponsonby 02/Sep AltLd O/S
davkeo 19/Aug AltLd O/S

Abbed in. Started from p2. I did p2&p4 plus the scramble up to the crux pitch. Climbing was pretty sweet all through. Had pack on for crux pitch but moves felt mostly fine with a bit of effort required. Holds run out at the bolt and it's a bit of bridgey stemming to get thru to a better position. Good fun.

mcgovern 19/Aug AltLd

You grow lettuce indoors in a cage?

liamo333 19/Aug -

Why are all the rocks different sizes?

Richard Kendrick 11/Jul AltLd

Pitches 1,3,4. Granite 7a feels impossible!

with Tim Johnston, stanleynkk
bencoope 02/Jul Lead O/S
ndraper1 01/Jul AltLd O/S

Absolutely stunning and well protected climbing. 1st, 3rd & crux. That top crack is fantastic.Took a couple of scrapes at the bolt- its pretty desperate and reachy to the shit holds on the flared ramp. Happy with my first E4 being at altitude!

with Mike Kirby
Sam Simpson 10/Jun AltLd O/S

Lead 1st, 3rd and crux pitch. magnificent

with Pat Browniie
QuentinSu 24/Sep/15 AltLd dog
zcsharp 26/Aug/15 AltLd dog

Had to aid the crux but probably could have done it clean if time was our hands. Such nice climbing, some of the best i have ever done.

steve_gibbs 26/Aug/15 AltLd dog
Ben Briggs ?/Aug/14 Lead
with Abs
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
McGuinness 10/Apr/14 -
with Kerry, Steve
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
tuukka 22/Aug/13 AltLd

Followed the crux pitch with the pack. Nice climbing.

with Juha
Petar Samkov 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Our warm up for Grand Cap. Great route , the crux pitch is must .

with Damqn Petkov Asq Markova
Alasdair Fulton 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 & 2 run together was a great pitch. As was the frst of the 6b pitches. The topo in Mont Blanc Supercracks is next to useless and we went a bit wrong on the 2nd 6b pitch. Got back on line for the crux which I got clean but, alas, on second.

andyinglis 22/Jul/13 AltLd

Point of aid required at the crux. Sustained route.

Claire Molloy ?/Jul/13 2nd
with Mark Thomas
jcw ??/2013 -
sam820 01/Aug/11 AltLd dog

French free! Matt almost led the crux pitch clean only to fall at the final bulge due to wet holds. I failed on the 6a/b pitch due to lack of commitment when pulling through the small roof.

with Matt Keyse
Johnny Baker ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/May/11 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Matt Bennett 04/Sep/10 AltLd

With Aid

with Mark Stevenson
mr mills 13/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Led all pitches, fantastic climbing ! missed the last cable back down to Chamonix.

with Gerwyn
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 16/Aug/08 AltLd
Adam Booth 23/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Bloody hard! Thankfully was climbing with someone a lot better than me!

whispering nic ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Mark Ryle
Hidden 14/Aug/02 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1996 AltLd
with Guy Maddox
Dave Musgrove 28/Aug/92 AltLd

Superb route but needed to pull on a couple of pegs on the crux pitch, which I led. Topped out over the balcony onto the viewing platform to hoardes of Japenese tourists with big cameras. Quite surreal!

with Pete Finklaire, David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28/Aug/92 AltLd

v. hard, used some aid

John Marsland ?/Aug/87 -
with Dave Soles
Paul Clarke ??/1979 Lead O/S
with Len Cray
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
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Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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