Rockfax Description
Classic, start just left of the name. A steady start leads to the sustained upper wall and a tricky finale up a steep pillar. Polished. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A direct line with great climbing and many big holds. Save a bit of puff for the final steep section.

FA. Boris Girardin, Claude & Yves Remy Mar/2007

nikolai17 09/May Lead O/S
with Chris Davis
TomJ 09/May Lead β
with Chris
Dave Turnbull 06/May Lead O/S

Great climbing up the wall on pockets. Never too hard, but continuous

with Jane Turnbull
Gregory 06/May Lead O/S
with Bob Conley
Charlie Zephyr Booth 03/May Lead O/S
with ian armstrong
Hidden 03/May Lead
with Tony Payne
Tegan 10/Apr Lead
Billg 09/Apr Lead O/S
Alastair R 08/Apr Lead O/S
with Clare, Iain
TashaZ 08/Apr Lead dnf

Couldn't find holds after 3rd bolt.

with Danny
Hidden 06/Apr Lead
rockafunked ?/Apr Lead dog

Fell on two redpoint tries at the last move before clipping the anchor.

Hidden ?/Apr Lead O/S
Matt Harmon 25/Mar Lead β

with a bit beta shouted up by dawn when i couldn't see any holds

Dawn_K_B 25/Mar Lead rpt

Rpt purely for the name

Hidden 27/Nov/15 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 17/Nov/15 Lead β
williap 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
GrahamGiles 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Aaron Clifford, pav low
TomGB 20/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Luke Perry
Hidden 19/Oct/15 Lead RP
alexelliott 16/Oct/15 Lead dog

Last clip!

with Phil Canning
Hidden 13/Oct/15 Lead O/S
dobby 200 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Will
Hidden 11/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 05/Oct/15 Lead O/S
abbeywall 29/Sep/15 Lead

Fantastic flowing moves all the way. The moves beyond the last clip to the lower off were unexpectedly hard

with FM
Marti999 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Debbie
danbirkby 23/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with SteveB
just one more 23/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Dan Birkby
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead β
Dandan82 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Henry.Todman 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
josh baldwin 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
joe1joe1joe2 ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Felicity Forster
migs493 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Lots of tick marks which spoilt the route.

with RS
goddamm7 25/May/15 Lead O/S
with Sandrex
lena.drapella 22/May/15 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 22/May/15 Lead O/S
with Lena
trevor macalonan 21/May/15 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with Jenni
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/15 Lead dog
Mark Grist 08/May/15 Lead O/S
with Helen harrison
quickdrawmcraw 07/May/15 Lead
Hidden 07/May/15 2nd
Hidden 01/May/15 Lead
Hidden 01/May/15 -
Rockmonkey1977 30/Apr/15 Lead β

Possibly done this before but if not then clean on-sight. Excellent route, crux at the very top.

birthers 26/Apr/15 Lead β
caroline256 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tom B
Hidden 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs 22/Apr/15 2nd

Very polished now - the finish is still hard!

with Andy Nicholson, Colin Binks
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead rpt
thomasburley 18/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with ewan
Robin Nichols 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Roger
Roget 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with robin
Liam Ingram 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S
marky 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead
garywong 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Peri Cheale
Anna Maykova 08/Apr/15 Lead RP
with Ian
Ian MK 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/15 -
Will Mortimer 02/Apr/15 Lead O/S
clarekissane 02/Apr/15 Lead β
Hidden 01/Apr/15 Lead
Jack J Keogan 01/Apr/15 Lead O/S
catrin289 ?/Apr/15 Lead β
Kipper-Phil Smith ??/2015 Lead O/S
MartinPL 26/Dec/14 Lead O/S
bomtall 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Mountain Llama 25/Oct/14 TR dnf
with Ray, Paul S
jeddb 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/14 -
Hidden 24/Oct/14 Lead O/S
LittleEm 24/Oct/14 Lead O/S

My first 6b onsight

TomGB 19/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Luke Perry, Stewart Moody
Hidden 19/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S
pawelgregorczyk 11/Oct/14 Lead β
with matiamallia
matiamallia 08/Oct/14 Lead O/S
mikedevcole 01/Oct/14 Lead dog
s0458892 ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Gemma_Penny ?/Oct/14 TR
Julie Carroll 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Steve Gorton
martrin 28/Sep/14 Lead
Bristoldave 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Caroline
Haerzi 15/May/14 -
Haerzi 15/May/14 -
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead
riff156 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Hannahc
surfede 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with ale
Hidden 26/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Dave Toseland 26/Apr/14 TR

Felt hard but nice on the top rope, Dan hung on well at the top, after wandering too far to the right. Solid 6b.

with Dan, Fred
adamjeffs 22/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with mum
Hidden 22/Apr/14 TR
JHiley 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
sdixon 21/Apr/14 2nd
Pete Wimbush 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Steve Carty
pete1993 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S

felt fairly easy, possibly being tall helps on this one

Dawn_K_B 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Definitely made the required Wild Sex noises! Wasn't prepared for how hard it would be and it was a bit sketchy climbing next to a 'don't climb here, dangerous' sign!

with James Whitehead
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Nevil 23/Oct/13 Lead
with Mike
Hidden 23/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 13/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S

One rest near top

with Chris Michalak
Hidden 12/Oct/13 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Ali 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Jay81 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S
ivebittenoffmorethanicanstu 03/Sep/13 TR
leagump 03/Sep/13 TR dog


SamStokes 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
dickypips 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with hans
Hidden 16/May/13 TR
Hidden 09/May/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 09/May/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/May/13 Lead O/S
rurp 07/May/13 Lead O/S

great moves, from bottom to top

Emilysaladfingers ?/May/13 Lead dog
Pippa 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Martin Grenfell 30/Apr/13 Lead dog
mountain_jay 30/Apr/13 2nd
Jim Brooke 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Steph, Mikey, Ian Tsang, Vic
Mossie Davis 27/Apr/13 TR β
John Nuttall 23/Apr/13 -
with Dave
a13x 16/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with James Stokes
Hidden 10/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Tom Smart 10/Apr/13 Lead β

Took a fall on the last move, good climb apart from that

crabby2009 10/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Bargate_Champ 10/Apr/13 -
Giles Davis 07/Apr/13 Lead RP

Got it this time after falling twice at the last hold before the chains in 2010 :D

with Mattdix
tobydunford 04/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Motown 04/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Jo Day
Hidden 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Rockmonkey1977 02/Apr/13 Lead β

Flashed after Chris's ascent.

Gus 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with whiters
Hidden 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S
MichaelConstantinou ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
mux ??/2013 -
with nicole
Hidden 26/Nov/12 Lead β
dpiddock 26/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Chris P
Laurence Everitt 25/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/12 TR dnf
tomB 23/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Juliette
tommytuffa 22/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Libby
Keith Lambley 22/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Kate R
3 Names 17/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/12 Lead O/S
DannyK 12/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Katie
steve.warrington 10/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Jacky Tyrie
Hidden 10/Oct/12 Lead O/S
gingerwolf 09/Oct/12 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Oct/12 -
Koon 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Outstanding 25m climb. Deserves 4* as in guidebook.

Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
galerito ?/Sep/12 Lead rpt
galerito ?/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Brendan 09/May/12 Lead O/S
Steve Hillier 08/May/12 Lead O/S
with ellen booth, Emma, edwin mitchell
edmitchell 08/May/12 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 08/May/12 TR O/S
Ellen Cobby 08/May/12 2nd dog
emmarowe 08/May/12 Lead
Hidden 03/May/12 Lead O/S
marcb 03/May/12 Lead O/S
Alice.001 03/May/12 Lead O/S

Wildly safe sex.

najki_2000 02/May/12 Lead dog

gutted I missed a good hold...wasnt even pumped but just didnt see the way ...as someone pointed out the holds are not exactly buckets and can be quite blind and spaced!

with Chris Rose
adrian perera ?/May/12 Lead O/S
with Helen Dale
Bates 29/Apr/12 Lead O/S
hellboundblr 24/Apr/12 Lead
with Ian Wilkinson
ewen 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Aaron Lines ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with jim, Dan
Hidden 27/Mar/12 Lead β
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 26/Oct/11 Lead dog
tradguy 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Ed Lamb
ed_1973 22/Oct/11 2nd
Giles Davis 19/Oct/11 Lead dog

Jugs, not so huge as UKclimbing Logbook states, more technical and sustained than 6b to the right, pumpy at the finish and fell off the last hold before clipping the chain!! Awesome route though.

Giles Davis 19/Oct/11 Lead dog

Failed at last hold a second time!!

with Liz Collyer
Hidden 18/Oct/11 Lead
cayteye 18/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with stephen pearson
andybirtwistle 17/Oct/11 Lead
with Tom Smith
MikeC59 02/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
thomasburley 22/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with Craig Devonshire
Hidden 10/Sep/11 -
Hidden 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/11 Lead O/S
asmith37 06/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 06/May/11 Lead O/S
timharrison 03/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Bex
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Lukedavidalden 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
owlman 22/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
claudman 21/Apr/11 -
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Claire S-J 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S

really lovely route

with rob
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
smcw ?/Mar/11 Lead
ZA ?/Mar/11 2nd
with smcw
Chris Craggs 06/Nov/10 2nd

Great - pity about the tough finale.

with Colin Binks
R8JimBob88 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Great route. Wandered a little near the top and ended up thugging it on very sharp rock!

with Laura
Jim Slater 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Tony Sawbridge, Chris Hindley
nealh ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with helen
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch 22/Oct/09 Lead O/S

I think this shoud be THE 4 star route of the crag.

with mick
embob 20/Oct/09 Lead

Who wouldn't love it?

with Alex
Hidden 20/Oct/09 Lead
Andy Clarke 13/May/09 Lead O/S

My first 6b onsight.

Hidden 13/May/09 2nd
Hidden 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Sam Judson 14/Sep/08 TR O/S

Wonderful route - next time will lead it.

with Phil Steadman
Dave Musgrove 03/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Keith Morgan
Chris the Tall 21/May/07 Lead O/S
with Liz
tjekel ??/2007 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Billg, danielbla, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set