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North North East Ridge* D

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[The twin cracks pitch on the NNE ridge of the Aiguille L'M, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.
A. Contamine 24/Aug/1948

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Photo: The twin cracks pitch on the NNE ridge of the Aiguille L'M © Jayne-O
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 169 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/14

Long walk across the moraine, very cold and damp start to the climbing then got off route in the continuation groove above the off-width due to missing the short traverse. Ended up walking back to Cham!
MrRiley - AltLd - 30/Aug/14 with Lachy Low, Debbie Lee

Rickrick - 30/Aug/14

Little AndyH - AltLd O/S - Aug/14

punj - AltLd - Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/14

Led 1,3,5,7. Solid VS. Crux very polished and thrutchy but some inelegant shuffling gets you up.
cmaradcliffe - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14

peakcaver - 2014

Snow, snow, and more snow everywhere... bypassed the snowy slab of P1, backed off at the top of P4 due to yet more snow. Lovely climb though!
Ly-Cilph - AltLd dnf - 14/Sep/13 with Barry S

best approach is to stay low on the path from the mid station and then use a small track up directly below the N face of the M rather than cross graining the moraine. Leading the route it is simple climbing taking an obvious line. Do not be tempted to go right above the laybacky/off-width crack above the polished corner. The correct route lies a few meters Left after a short traverse.
chris687 - Lead - 13/Aug/13 with Gareth Steel

Palindrome - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13

tommytuffa - Lead O/S - Jul/13 with Libby

Tobias at Home - 2013

jcw - 2013

halroberts87 - AltLd dnf - 18/Sep/12 with Sam Cooke

Sam Cooke - AltLd dnf - 18/Sep/12 with Hal

DBoothroyd - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/12 with Mark Challoner

Climbed as 6 pitches, after linking 1&2. I led 1,2,3,5 and 7. Climbing was good although we got stuck behind slower parties above. Approached from the Plan but crossing Nantillions glacier was miserable and dangerous (not recommended). The off-width p4 is probably worth UK 4b/4c, much easier with rock boots. Just made the last lift from the Plan with a quick march return along the bottom path :)
markfairbank - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/12 with Dave Brown

Lead P4 and 6
Mountain Llama - AltLd - 11/Sep/12 with Mark F

Led crux pitch
claregardiner - AltLd - 06/Sep/12

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with N Phelps

Awkward climbing that was made harder by the weight of crampons and ice axes we should have left at the glacier. Look for ladders on the approach from the Plan. It can be approached without crampons lower down. Unpleasant descent down gully, left side is better. 3 abbs from top using single 50m, downclimbing would be harder than grade 2.
caradoc - AltLd - 08/Aug/12 with john b

gets D+ overall and F5b for the off width pitch now. awesome route. We did it from the train to montenvers. The descent down the morain was very loose and dangerous in its self without the rockfall also comming down from above.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - Aug/12 with Kenny

Aaron Lines - AltLd - Aug/12 with stu

Nice route, although offwidth corner is hardest 4c in the world! Almost fell off it. Horrible. Maybe I'm just no good at offwidths. Dan forgot his climbing shoes so seconded the whole thing, allowing me to lead. Massive black clouds threatened rain, but somehow we escaped.
bigbobbyking - Lead - 30/Jun/12 with Dan Guest

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/12

R_W_M - 21/Jun/12 with Harry

Time & weather against us. Got to about 20m below the summit. Descended on the East side of the Fretes to the Montenvers station which was less pleasant and took longer than the normal approach.
Ian_Whitfield - 31/May/12 with Peter Heath, Whitty2012

Whitty2012 - Lead dnf - 31/May/12 with Peter Heath, Ian Whitfield

Joegriff - AltLd dnf - 2012 with Dave Trueman

Hidden - 2012

Good fun though a pretty tough crux corner pitch. Plus nearly got killed by a rock fall crossing the glacier on the way back to the lift.
Binder - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11 with Chris L

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Aug/11

Well 'ard! May have pulled on some in situ stuff.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Robert Taylor

Top route, we were the only party on it.
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Liam Ingram

Great route, swapping leads with DL. Several groups on it, but no one moving too slowly. The interesting "marble" corner pitch is a little more difficult than it looks from the bottom, tons of in-situ though.
Poco Loco - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/11 with R. Horler, Bald Eagle

BALD EAGLE - AltLd - 04/Aug/11 with J.Pomeroy

Moved together until the crux then switched to alternate leads. Another good climb.
Karl Wooffindin - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/11 with Ollie Hemstock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/11

Lenny - AltLd dnf - 13/Jul/11 with Paul

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

mikespooner - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/11

DanLear - 2nd - 02/Jun/11 with Steve Gooberman-Hill

Completed it in 3 and half hours. P3 was partly covered with snow - had to stamp on snow with climbing shoes. Saw no one except for rescue people doing training. Nice and compact summit!
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/10 with Max C

Hidden - Lead - Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/10

knicos - AltLd - Jul/10 with James Chesmer, Matt Metcalfe

VS wouldn't be unfair for the offwidth, but I don't see what this fuss is about polish, it's fine!
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with ts

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/10

We did this route up L'M after finding the Couzy route iced up. Lovely climb with a descent that involves abseils, glacier travel and ladders...
oldgrey - Jun/10 with Virgil Scott

roryifinlay - AltLd - 29/Sep/09 with Gary Connor, Dave Chalmers

Hidden - Sep/09

Hidden - Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/09

Polished and crowded. There are so many better routes around... The wide crack was fun though.
reima - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Nora, Niamh

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/09

cmsg - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/09 with Steve

Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with Ben Cooling

Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with Ben Cooling

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Chris James

JonHarvey - AltLd rpt - Jul/09 with Jay Jackson, Jayne Bulbeck

Bruveris - AltLd - Jul/09

RD led long chimney pitch (in fact a huge corner crack), fell on twin crack pitch, but did final pitch (left hand variation IV)
rd20 - AltLd - 21/Aug/08 with Jason

Fun little climb, felt roughly HS although the cracks above the terrace before the letterbox were a little difficult for some...
kleinej - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/08 with Robert

simmmuuuu
Franco Cookson OLD - Solo O/S - 29/Jul/08 with Ian Jackson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/08

Hidden - 18/Jun/08

tim20 - 2008

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 25/Aug/07 with sam read

tom.e - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/07 with Luke Porter

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/07

Found quite hard. Took long time and missed last cable car and last bus back to campsite
Glyn - Jul/07 with Trystan and Perry

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/07

adamscottthomas - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/07 with Oliver Mentz

alternate finish out left where you'd go through the squeeze probably VS ish (though felt hard in big boots / rucksack)
31770 - AltLd - 18/Jun/07 with adamscottthomas

Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 2007 with douglas

featuresforfeet - AltLd O/S - Sep/06 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/06

gripped01 - Lead - Aug/06 with Dan Graves

My first rock route on the Cham Aiguilles. Very enjoyable. Even the mirror finish corner pitch was great fun!
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/06 with James

From the mid station of the Aiguille du Midi cable-car. Very hard work on a hot day. Return via the normal route.
Chris Davids - AltLd dog - 15/Jul/06 with Mark

tatz45 - Lead - Jul/06 with Jamie Tattersall

Fantastic climbing ,, bit polished in places ,, great day ,,, just about made last cable car!
JonHarvey - AltLd - Jul/06 with David Moir and Michael Maben

dmoir - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Jon Harvey and Mike Maben

frost - Solo - Jul/06

ashpreston - 2006

liz j - 2nd - Sep/05 with neil brodie

Kyuzo - Lead - Jul/05

hal - Jul/05

Hidden - 21/Jun/05

A good day out, except that the thunderstorm and lightening show stopped our descent and thus another hike down into the valley after the last train from Montenvers had departed.
Yyonnx - AltLd - 19/Jun/05 with Tom Fralich

fizzy_elephant - AltLd - Jun/05 with Rob Williams

SteveM - AltLd - 22/Aug/04 with Tobs

I led the crux off-width pitch and it certainly felt harder than 4b climbing! I cant think of any HS climbers who could manage it...then again, maybe im just a big girls blouse! Awesome route and a great day out.
Mark A Humphries - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/04 with Rob Harper

Marcell - Aug/04

Approached from overnight bivi below, great rock route. Caught in sudden storm at the top and had difficulty finding start of ab descent in poor vis. Nantillions glacier was like a bowling alley with rockfall and ice from serac collapse from Grand Charmoz.
Will Gordon - AltLd O/S - Aug/04 with Rich

Danhan - AltLd - Jul/04 with andybuckley

akhughes - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Steptoe

Tobias at Home - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/03

reg_measures - 07/Jul/03

alpinismo.uk - AltLd - Jul/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/03

rlrs - AltLd - 2003

Mark Salter - AltLd - 17/Aug/02 with Chris Shorrock

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jul/02

joe king - AltLd O/S - Jun/02 with steve petit

clams - 2002 with AD

Scotsken - Aug/01

From Refuge du Plan. Diccon backed off the off the diedre/off width (he was wearing winter walking boots rather than mountaineering boots or as some were shod in stickys). To finish rather than go through the “Letter Box” I lead the direct finish 10m to summit VI,3 points of aid.
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/01 with Diccon Proctor

Downclimbed easily instead of abseiling. Still missed the last cable car down but prolly because we didn't start the route until 3pm!
220bpm - AltLd - Aug/00 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

bladderedagain - Lead - 2000

Climbster - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/99 with UTMC

Robinl100 - AltLd O/S - Jul/99 with Paddy Muir

nige pacer - AltLd O/S - Jul/98

the abmmc - AltLd - 1998 with Karl Rowe

Hidden - AltLd - 1998

Jim Walton - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/96 with Alison Bethal

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Sep/94

craig h - AltLd - Aug/93 with Jim Mellor

kristian - AltLd - Aug/93

Hidden - Lead - Jul/93

with ken
auld al - AltLd O/S - Jul/93

Hidden - Solo - Jul/93

djdavies - 2nd - 08/Aug/92

Done in big boots - a hilarious, well pegged offwidth.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - Jul/92 with Luc Percival

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/92

Thunderstom startedas we were desending and missed last cablecar back.
Yourlead - 2nd - 28/Jun/92 with Helen Penny, Graham Penny

Jamie Simpson - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/91 with Gavin Maclean

Hidden - 1991

colinthrelfall - 1991 with neil witts

Nick Rundall - AltLd O/S - 1990 with Dad

Hidden - Lead - Jul/89

Hidden - AltLd - 1989

BigHairyIan - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/88 with Guy Summers

gallonj - Jul/88

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/87 with Chris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/86

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/86

with Colin Lennox
ill_bill - Jul/86

John Marsland - 08/Aug/85 with Dave Soles

Hammy - AltLd - 16/Jul/85 with Colin Struthers, Jenny le Merle

andy tetsill - AltLd - Aug/84 with Ian Bennet,, Joy

andy tetsill - Lead - Aug/83 with Joy

John Marsland - 1982 with Eduardo Martinez

arduff - Jul/81 with Chris Brown

Richard Weller - Aug/80 with Richard White

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/80

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/80

Hidden - Sep/79

leland stamper - AltLd - 1979 with Hugh Grandfield

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jul/78

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jul/78

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/77

beaumap - 2nd - Aug/77 with Mick

Andy Chubb - 07/Jul/76 with Pete Coghill

Bolt Phobia - AltLd rpt - Jul/75

Time 4hrs after a bivouac in the boulders below good route
Nigel Bond - Lead - 25/Aug/74 with Dave Jolliffe

Bolt Phobia - AltLd O/S - Jul/74

pneame - AltLd - Jul/73 with Eric Holligan

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Richard Alderton, Timothy Miller, andybuckley, Hidden, thomaspomfrett, dannyW, Ronan O Keeffe, Hidden, Timo Austino, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 41
hard D+0 of 20
D+0 of 20
easy D+9 of 20
hard D2 of 20
D7 of 20
easy D0 of 20
hard D-2 of 20
D-0 of 20
easy D-0 of 20
3 Stars11 of 21
2 Stars9 of 21
1 Star1 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 169 (1.8%)
Lead23 of 169 (13.6%)
Followed10 of 169 (5.9%)
Alt Leads102 of 169 (60.4%)
Unknown31 of 169 (18.3%)

'Climbed'98 of 169 (58.0%)
clean O/S61 of 169 (36.1%)
clean rpt3 of 169 (1.8%)
dogged1 of 169 (0.6%)
dnf6 of 169 (3.6%)