Snow, snow, and more snow everywhere... bypassed the snowy slab of P1, backed off at the top of P4 due to yet more snow. Lovely climb though!Ly-Cilph - AltLd dnf - 14/Sep/13 with Barry S
best approach is to stay low on the path from the mid station and then use a small track up directly below the N face of the M rather than cross graining the moraine.
Leading the route it is simple climbing taking an obvious line. Do not be tempted to go right above the laybacky/off-width crack above the polished corner. The correct route lies a few meters Left after a short traverse.
chris687 - Lead - 13/Aug/13 with Gareth Steel
Palindrome - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13
tommytuffa - Lead O/S - Jul/13 with Libby
Tobias at Home - 2013
jcw - 2013
halroberts87 - AltLd dnf - 18/Sep/12 with Sam Cooke
Sam Cooke - AltLd dnf - 18/Sep/12 with Hal
DBoothroyd - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/12 with Mark Challoner
Climbed as 6 pitches, after linking 1&2. I led 1,2,3,5 and 7. Climbing was good although we got stuck behind slower parties above. Approached from the Plan but crossing Nantillions glacier was miserable and dangerous (not recommended). The off-width p4 is probably worth UK 4b/4c, much easier with rock boots. Just made the last lift from the Plan with a quick march return along the bottom path :)
markfairbank - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/12 with Dave Brown
Lead P4 and 6
Mountain Llama - AltLd - 11/Sep/12 with Mark F
Led crux pitch
claregardiner - AltLd - 06/Sep/12
samsimpson - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with N Phelps
Awkward climbing that was made harder by the weight of crampons and ice axes we should have left at the glacier. Look for ladders on the approach from the Plan. It can be approached without crampons lower down. Unpleasant descent down gully, left side is better. 3 abbs from top using single 50m, downclimbing would be harder than grade 2.
caradoc - AltLd - 08/Aug/12 with john b
gets D+ overall and F5b for the off width pitch now. awesome route. We did it from the train to montenvers. The descent down the morain was very loose and dangerous in its self without the rockfall also comming down from above.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - Aug/12 with Kenny
Aaron Lines - AltLd - Aug/12 with stu
Nice route, although offwidth corner is hardest 4c in the world! Almost fell off it. Horrible. Maybe I'm just no good at offwidths.
Dan forgot his climbing shoes so seconded the whole thing, allowing me to lead. Massive black clouds threatened rain, but somehow we escaped.
bigbobbyking - Lead - 30/Jun/12 with Dan Guest
Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/12
R_W_M - 21/Jun/12 with Harry
Time & weather against us. Got to about 20m below the summit. Descended on the East side of the Fretes to the Montenvers station which was less pleasant and took longer than the normal approach.
Ian_Whitfield - 31/May/12 with Peter Heath, Whitty2012
Whitty2012 - Lead dnf - 31/May/12 with Peter Heath, Ian Whitfield
Joegriff - AltLd dnf - 2012 with Dave Trueman
Hidden - 2012
Good fun though a pretty tough crux corner pitch. Plus nearly got killed by a rock fall crossing the glacier on the way back to the lift.
Binder - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11 with Chris L
Hidden - AltLd - 24/Aug/11
Well 'ard! May have pulled on some in situ stuff.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Robert Taylor
Top route, we were the only party on it.
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Liam Ingram
Great route, swapping leads with DL. Several groups on it, but no one moving too slowly. The interesting "marble" corner pitch is a little more difficult than it looks from the bottom, tons of in-situ though.
Poco Loco - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/11 with R. Horler, Bald Eagle
BALD EAGLE - AltLd - 04/Aug/11 with J.Pomeroy
Moved together until the crux then switched to alternate leads. Another good climb.
Karl Wooffindin - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/11 with Ollie Hemstock
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/11
Lenny - AltLd dnf - 13/Jul/11 with Paul
Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11
mikespooner - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/11
DanLear - 2nd - 02/Jun/11 with Steve Gooberman-Hill
Completed it in 3 and half hours. P3 was partly covered with snow - had to stamp on snow with climbing shoes. Saw no one except for rescue people doing training. Nice and compact summit!
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/10 with Max C
Hidden - Lead - Aug/10
Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/10
knicos - AltLd - Jul/10 with James Chesmer, Matt Metcalfe
VS wouldn't be unfair for the offwidth, but I don't see what this fuss is about polish, it's fine!
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with ts
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/10
We did this route up L'M after finding the Couzy route iced up. Lovely climb with a descent that involves abseils, glacier travel and ladders...
oldgrey - Jun/10 with Virgil Scott
roryifinlay - AltLd - 29/Sep/09 with Gary Connor, Dave Chalmers
Hidden - Sep/09
Hidden - Aug/09
Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/09
Polished and crowded. There are so many better routes around... The wide crack was fun though.
reima - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Nora, Niamh
Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/09
cmsg - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/09 with Steve
Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with Ben Cooling
Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with Ben Cooling
Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Chris James
JonHarvey - AltLd rpt - Jul/09 with Jay Jackson, Jayne Bulbeck
Bruveris - AltLd - Jul/09
RD led long chimney pitch (in fact a huge corner crack), fell on twin crack pitch, but did final pitch (left hand variation IV)
rd20 - AltLd - 21/Aug/08 with Jason
Fun little climb, felt roughly HS although the cracks above the terrace before the letterbox were a little difficult for some...
kleinej - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/08 with Robert
Franco Cookson OLD - Solo O/S - 29/Jul/08 with Ian Jackson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/08
Hidden - 18/Jun/08
tim20 - 2008
dan gibson - Lead rpt - 25/Aug/07 with sam read
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/07 with Luke Porter
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/07
Found quite hard. Took long time and missed last cable car and last bus back to campsite
Glyn - Jul/07 with Trystan and Perry
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/07
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/07
Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jun/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/07
adamscottthomas - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/07 with Oliver Mentz
alternate finish out left where you'd go through the squeeze probably VS ish (though felt hard in big boots / rucksack)
31770 - AltLd - 18/Jun/07 with adamscottthomas
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 2007 with douglas
featuresforfeet - AltLd O/S - Sep/06 with Steve
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/06
gripped01 - Lead - Aug/06 with Dan Graves
My first rock route on the Cham Aiguilles. Very enjoyable. Even the mirror finish corner pitch was great fun!
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/06 with James
From the mid station of the Aiguille du Midi cable-car. Very hard work on a hot day. Return via the normal route.
Chris Davids - AltLd dog - 15/Jul/06 with Mark
tatz45 - Lead - Jul/06 with Jamie Tattersall
Fantastic climbing ,, bit polished in places ,, great day ,,, just about made last cable car!
JonHarvey - AltLd - Jul/06 with David Moir and Michael Maben
dmoir - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Jon Harvey and Mike Maben
frost - Solo - Jul/06
ashpreston - 2006
liz j - 2nd - Sep/05 with neil brodie
Kyuzo - Lead - Jul/05
hal - Jul/05
Hidden - 21/Jun/05
A good day out, except that the thunderstorm and lightening show stopped our descent and thus another hike down into the valley after the last train from Montenvers had departed.
Yyonnx - AltLd - 19/Jun/05 with Tom Fralich
fizzy_elephant - AltLd - Jun/05 with Rob Williams
SteveM - AltLd - 22/Aug/04 with Tobs
I led the crux off-width pitch and it certainly felt harder than 4b climbing! I cant think of any HS climbers who could manage it...then again, maybe im just a big girls blouse! Awesome route and a great day out.
Mark A Humphries - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/04 with Rob Harper
Marcell - Aug/04
Approached from overnight bivi below, great rock route. Caught in sudden storm at the top and had difficulty finding start of ab descent in poor vis. Nantillions glacier was like a bowling alley with rockfall and ice from serac collapse from Grand Charmoz.
Will Gordon - AltLd O/S - Aug/04 with Rich
Danhan - AltLd - Jul/04 with andybuckley
akhughes - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Steptoe
Tobias at Home - 2004
Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/03
reg_measures - 07/Jul/03
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/03
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/03
rlrs - AltLd - 2003
Mark Salter - AltLd - 17/Aug/02 with Chris Shorrock
LakesWinter - AltLd - 28/Jul/02 with Wil
joe king - AltLd O/S - Jun/02 with steve petit
Scotsken - Aug/01
From Refuge du Plan. Diccon backed off the off the diedre/off width (he was wearing winter walking boots rather than mountaineering boots or as some were shod in stickys). To finish rather than go through the “Letter Box” I lead the direct finish 10m to summit VI,3 points of aid.
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/01 with Diccon Proctor
Downclimbed easily instead of abseiling. Still missed the last cable car down but prolly because we didn't start the route until 3pm!
220bpm - AltLd - Aug/00 with Dave
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000
bladderedagain - Lead - 2000
Climbster - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/99 with UTMC
Robinl100 - AltLd O/S - Jul/99 with Paddy Muir
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/98
the abmmc - AltLd - 1998 with Karl Rowe
Hidden - AltLd - 1998
Jim Walton - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/96 with Alison Bethal
Hidden - AltLd - 05/Sep/94
craig h - AltLd - Aug/93 with Jim Mellor
kristian - AltLd - Aug/93
Hidden - Lead - Jul/93
auld al - AltLd O/S - Jul/93
Hidden - Solo - Jul/93
djdavies - 2nd - 08/Aug/92
Done in big boots - a hilarious, well pegged offwidth.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - Jul/92 with Luc Percival
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/92
Thunderstom startedas we were desending and missed last cablecar back.
Yourlead - 2nd - 28/Jun/92 with Helen Penny, Graham Penny
Jamie Simpson - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/91 with Gavin Maclean
Hidden - 1991
colinthrelfall - 1991 with neil witts
Nick Rundall - AltLd O/S - 1990 with Dad
Hidden - Lead - Jul/89
johnkeith - AltLd - 1989 with G. Callander
BigHairyIan - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/88 with Guy Summers
gallonj - Jul/88
John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/87 with Chris
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/86
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/86
with Colin Lennox
ill_bill - Jul/86
John Marsland - 08/Aug/85 with Dave Soles
Hammy - AltLd - 16/Jul/85 with Colin Struthers, Jenny le Merle
andy tetsill - AltLd - Aug/84 with Ian Bennet,, Joy
andy tetsill - Lead - Aug/83 with Joy
John Marsland - 1982 with Eduardo Martinez
arduff - Jul/81 with Chris Brown
Richard Weller - Aug/80 with Richard White
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/80
leland stamper - AltLd - 1979 with Hugh Grandfield
Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jul/78
Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jul/78
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/77
beaumap - 2nd - Aug/77 with Mick
Andy Chubb - 07/Jul/76 with Pete Coghill
Bolt Phobia - AltLd rpt - Jul/75
Nigel Bond - Lead - 25/Aug/74 with Dave Jolliffe
Bolt Phobia - AltLd O/S - Jul/74
pneame - AltLd - Jul/73 with Eric Holligan