Top quality granite crack climbing. Crux pitch well protected.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Rob Royle 09/Sep 2nd

Did the 6b direct start, fantastic route!

with Mountain Guide
danJBA 07/Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul AltLd
jac00 05/Jul AltLd dnf
with Mike
aerobiee 28/Jun AltLd O/S
with Dave Searle
Hidden 29/May AltLd O/S
ndraper1 17/May AltLd O/S

Each pitch incredible and flows well. 40m dihedral is worth arguing over. Crux's are soft for the grade.

Hidden 17/May AltLd
nige pacer 21/Apr AltLd O/S

Just first 2 pitches alas

with Andy Houseman
Timothy Miller 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
davkeo 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead crux. Prob the most enjoyable pitch iv climbed. Crack offered so much. Jam, layback, high step, bridge. Excellent and engrossing.

simondunf 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with caspar
jimmatthews 05/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Good style. Sung we are the champions to the fun Italians climbing next to us.

Sam Simpson 05/Aug/14 AltLd


Paul Collins ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Neil Byrne
reima 25/Jul/14 AltLd dnf

Turned back 2 (easy?) pitches before the top as the clouds started to roll in and felt no need for epics.

with Niamh
zcsharp 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Such good climbing, on the ab down the rope got stuck and i had to climb the crux of harlod et maud to get the rope free.

with Al
Hidden ?/Jun/14 2nd
niallsash ?/Jun/14 2nd
McGuinness 07/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Emily
wi11 07/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

2, 3, 6 Amazing route!

with Stephen
Hidden 06/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/14 Lead
chapmand 31/Mar/14 AltLd

Rory led the cruxes.

with Rory Brown
Hidden 31/Mar/14 AltLd
walts4 ?/Mar/14 AltLd
with stan & William
mike mo ??/2014 -
Kris ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
TommyMcG ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
chris687 30/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led the crux pitch, really nice climbing on good rock. Good gear on all pitches. we carried all our gear and topped out to descend the Pt. Lachenal on the North. It would be quicker to ab down from just above the crux and leave glacier kit at the base.

Hidden 30/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Ahab 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Beautiful finger crack climbing on crux pitch.

Fultonius 18/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Nice wee route.

with Morgan, Searler
Hidden ??/2013 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
edek_w ??/2013 -
Jay C 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Geddas
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd
sgl 02/Apr/12 AltLd
with Bart, viv
Hidden 02/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
liamo333 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
frost 04/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with D Almond
Adam Booth 31/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing! Some of the best climbing I've ever done, especially the crux crack on the 50m wall, but all of it is good. Ropes got stuck twice on the raps which was fun!

gowla 31/Aug/11 AltLd dog
with adam booth
Hidden 28/Aug/11 AltLd dnf
GaryK 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Stuart led both hard pitches as I was suffering with the altitude. An excellent route. A classic of Chamonix granite climbing. Much more enjoyable than the Rebuffat route on the S Face of the Midi. Use the description in Piola's, (french), Tome 2 topo guide rather than the english edition as it also describes the other routes on the face, of which there are many. It's easy to end up on the wrong route as there are so many bits of gear around. The route itself has been equipped with twin bolt belays by the local guides, and there are about 10 pegs/stuck friends/wires etc in the route. We used a complete set of Metolius cams and a set of WC light rocks. 50m ropes will be sufficient. Enjoy.

with Stuart McAleese
charlesmfrench 03/Aug/11 AltLd O/S


with Anette
Ben Briggs 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Luca
Hidden 24/May/11 AltLd
stevepotter 11/Sep/10 -
with Matt
Tobias at Home ??/2010 -
Hidden 23/Aug/09 AltLd
Dave Searle 23/Jun/08 Lead
with john
zero six ??/2007 AltLd O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
feilx ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/99 AltLd
andy_pemberton ?/Aug/96 AltLd dnf

Got to the big, comfy ledge below the crux. Knakered and remembering it was the one year aniversary of a friend's accident... we bottled it back down!

with Chris Richards
alkira 26/Jun/94 -
with kerry atkey
Hidden ?/Apr/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/89 AltLd
Richard Weller 25/Jul/86 AltLd

Approx date

with john sanders
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High E2
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High E1
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High HVS
Votes cast 19
High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Low 5b
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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