Rockfax Description
III, 205m. The word classic is overused but in this case it barely does it justice. The route finding is not straightforward in the lower section, but the climbing is good from the start and gets even better in the top half. There are numerous variations on the first half of the route and even after several ascents, you may find yourself taking a slightly different line every time. Most of the variations are of similar difficulty and there are plenty of fixed belays, so provided you end up at the foot of the fifth (crux) pitch, don't worry too much about how you got there!
1) 5c, 30m. Climb the shallow corner, which feels quite awkward straight off the deck, and an enjoyable hand-jamming crack above. Step right to belay on a flat ledge.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb up and right from the belay and follow the increasingly steep corner to a long ledge and belay at the far right of this. It is tempting to follow easy ground rightwards instead of climbing this pitch, but this ends up being harder than just sticking to the proper route.
3) 5c, 30m. Instead of climbing the crack immediately above the belay, move right and follow the hand-jamming crack to an exposed stance just below a small overhang.
4) 5c, 25m. Jam your way through the overhang (easier than it looks) and continue up the excellent crack to a stance on the ridge crest.
5) 6a+, 40m. Move left and follow the thin crack up the wall. The crux move is halfway up the pitch and involves leaving the crack and stepping into a different one on the right. Small cams (but not micro cams) are useful to protect this and there are also some pegs. Once in the right-hand-crack, follow it more easily to an exposed belay.
6) 4c, 35m. Follow easier ground just to the left of the ridge crest before coming back right.
7) 4c, 15m. The ridge crest leads to a junction with Harold et Maud on a belay below a corner.
8) 5b, 25m. The corner above the belay leads to a slab and, finally, the summit.
Descent - There are numerous fixed abseil points on the main face and abseiling Harold et Maud and Contamine usually involves using belays on both routes to avoid rope snags and congestion on busy days. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Top quality granite crack climbing. Crux pitch well protected.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 19/Jul AltLd O/S
dpalmer1961 19/Jul Lead dog
machars 17/Jul AltLd
with Neil
Martin Haworth 06/Jul Lead O/S

Fantastic route, one of the best I've done. 4 hours on the route, back in Chamonix for happy hour.

Matt Groom 26/Jun AltLd
with Ben Coope, harry_lewis
harry_lewis 26/Jun AltLd O/S
with Matt Groom, Ben Coope
bencoope 26/Jun AltLd O/S

A lot easier than the Contamine on the Midi

J_Trottet 22/Jun AltLd

Accidentally set off up the 6b start, fun but very busy route with some unpleasant local guides.

with Brian Pollock, Alfie
Brian Pollock 22/Jun AltLd O/S

Great route marred only by the number of teams on it

Richard Kendrick 08/Jun AltLd O/S
Hugh Simons 07/Jun AltLd O/S

Led the first 4 pitches to below the 2 crux pitches which David led in fine style. Calum led a couple more pitches to just below the top before we had to ab off. The walk back to the Midi from the bottom to catch the last lift was brutal... All pitches had amazing climbing, great route!

calumhicks 07/Jun AltLd O/S

Best rock route I've done yet. Definitely better than rebuffat on south face of midi (and less busy!). Made it from the base of the climb to the midi in less than an hour to catch the last lift...

Hidden 10/Apr AltLd O/S
frejashannon 10/Apr AltLd O/S
Rob Royle 09/Sep/15 2nd

Did the 6b direct start, fantastic route!

with Mountain Guide
danJBA 07/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Smith42 16/Jul/15 AltLd

With direct start.

with Cas
jac00 05/Jul/15 AltLd dnf
with Mike
DaveThexton 28/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Dave Searle
Hidden 29/May/15 AltLd O/S
ndraper1 17/May/15 AltLd O/S

Each pitch incredible and flows well. 40m dihedral is worth arguing over. Crux's are soft for the grade. https://nickdraperupslidedown.wordpress.com/

Hidden 17/May/15 AltLd
nige pacer 21/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Just first 2 pitches alas

with Andy Houseman
Timothy Miller 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
davkeo 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead crux. Prob the most enjoyable pitch iv climbed. Crack offered so much. Jam, layback, high step, bridge. Excellent and engrossing.

simondunf 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with caspar
jimmatthews 05/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Good style. Sung we are the champions to the fun Italians climbing next to us.

Sam Simpson 05/Aug/14 AltLd

Magnificent

Paul Collins ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Neil Byrne
reima 25/Jul/14 AltLd dnf

Turned back 2 (easy?) pitches before the top as the clouds started to roll in and felt no need for epics.

with Niamh
zcsharp 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Such good climbing, on the ab down the rope got stuck and i had to climb the crux of harlod et maud to get the rope free.

with Al
Hidden ?/Jun/14 2nd
niallsash ?/Jun/14 2nd
McGuinness 07/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Emily
wi11 07/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

2, 3, 6 Amazing route!

with Stephen
Hidden 06/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/14 Lead
chapmand 31/Mar/14 AltLd

Rory led the cruxes.

with Rory Brown
Hidden 31/Mar/14 AltLd
walts4 ?/Mar/14 AltLd
with stan & William
mike mo ??/2014 -
Kris ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
TommyMcG ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
chris687 30/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led the crux pitch, really nice climbing on good rock. Good gear on all pitches. we carried all our gear and topped out to descend the Pt. Lachenal on the North. It would be quicker to ab down from just above the crux and leave glacier kit at the base.

Hidden 30/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Ahab 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Beautiful finger crack climbing on crux pitch.

Alasdair Fulton 18/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Nice wee route.

with Morgan, Searler
Hidden ??/2013 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
edek_w ??/2013 -
Jay C 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Geddas
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd
sgl 02/Apr/12 AltLd
with Bart, viv
tebs 02/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climbing, interesting all the way and great quality rock.

with Viv, Sam
liamo333 ??/2012 -
frost 04/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with D Almond
Adam Booth 31/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing! Some of the best climbing I've ever done, especially the crux crack on the 50m wall, but all of it is good. Ropes got stuck twice on the raps which was fun!

gowla 31/Aug/11 AltLd dog
with adam booth
Hidden 28/Aug/11 AltLd dnf
GaryK 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Stuart led both hard pitches as I was suffering with the altitude. An excellent route. A classic of Chamonix granite climbing. Much more enjoyable than the Rebuffat route on the S Face of the Midi. Use the description in Piola's, (french), Tome 2 topo guide rather than the english edition as it also describes the other routes on the face, of which there are many. It's easy to end up on the wrong route as there are so many bits of gear around. The route itself has been equipped with twin bolt belays by the local guides, and there are about 10 pegs/stuck friends/wires etc in the route. We used a complete set of Metolius cams and a set of WC light rocks. 50m ropes will be sufficient. Enjoy.

with Stuart McAleese
charlesmfrench 03/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

2,L,2,L,2,L,2,L,2,L.

with Anette
Ben Briggs 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Luca
Hidden 24/May/11 AltLd
stevepotter 11/Sep/10 -
with Matt
Tobias at Home ??/2010 -
Hidden 23/Aug/09 AltLd
Dave Searle 23/Jun/08 Lead
with john
zero six ??/2007 AltLd O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
feilx ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/99 AltLd
andy_pemberton ?/Aug/96 AltLd dnf

Got to the big, comfy ledge below the crux. Knakered and remembering it was the one year aniversary of a friend's accident... we bottled it back down!

with Chris Richards
alkira 26/Jun/94 -
with kerry atkey
Hidden ?/Apr/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/89 AltLd
Richard Weller 25/Jul/86 AltLd

Approx date

with john sanders
Hidden ??/1980 -
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