|3 pitches. Pitch 1: (4c) Traverse out left below overhangs with some difficulty (but good pro) to the left edge of the slab. Climb spectacularly through what is now an overlap into a somewhat mossy groove which leads to a niche. Easily up rightwards to a good ledge with small nut belay and loose flakes.
Pitch 2. (4b) Climb the slabs above, quite boldly, easily at first, but steepening. Pass a small overhang on its right and continue with interest to the right end of a large vegetated ledge. Either continue up the steep crack for a few feet before traversing left to an overhung niche (rather artificial and 4c) or walk along the ledge before scrambling up to the niche.
Pitch 3: (4c) Climb up leftwards to ledge on the arête. Take the mossy cracks above (right one, then left one) to the top. (This last sentence is my interpretation of the route – I couldn't see the mossy corner on the right referred to in the guide).
Photo: Outflanking the overlap on first pitch of Nocturne © Rog Wilko Seymore Butt - 2009 Last pitch was not obvious. We climbed mossy cracks after the ledge on the arete. Good route. Paul Clarke - AltLd - 1972 with FMC
Seymore Butt - 2009
Last pitch was not obvious. We climbed mossy cracks after the ledge on the arete. Good route.
Paul Clarke - AltLd - 1972 with FMC