Cumbria > Gimmer Crag >
 
Nocturne** VS 4b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Hash'n'Trash
 
Pallid Slabs >>
[Outflanking the overlap on first pitch of Nocturne, 3 kb]3 pitches. Pitch 1: (4c) Traverse out left below overhangs with some difficulty (but good pro) to the left edge of the slab. Climb spectacularly through what is now an overlap into a somewhat mossy groove which leads to a niche. Easily up rightwards to a good ledge with small nut belay and loose flakes. Pitch 2. (4b) Climb the slabs above, quite boldly, easily at first, but steepening. Pass a small overhang on its right and continue with interest to the right end of a large vegetated ledge. Either continue up the steep crack for a few feet before traversing left to an overhung niche (rather artificial and 4c) or walk along the ledge before scrambling up to the niche. Pitch 3: (4c) Climb up leftwards to ledge on the arête. Take the mossy cracks above (right one, then left one) to the top. (This last sentence is my interpretation of the route I couldn't see the mossy corner on the right referred to in the guide).

Ticklists: A day out with Dolphin, The Complete Dolphin Collection, Rog Wilko's Neglected Gems in The Lakes.

Photo: Outflanking the overlap on first pitch of Nocturne © Rog Wilko
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 3 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Seymore Butt - 2009

Last pitch was not obvious. We climbed mossy cracks after the ledge on the arete. Good route.
Rog Wilko - Lead - Jun/05 with Debbie Wilkinson

Hidden - AltLd - 1972

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 3
hard HVS0 of 1
HVS0 of 1
easy HVS0 of 1
hard VS1 of 1
VS0 of 1
easy VS0 of 1
hard HS0 of 1
HS0 of 1
easy HS0 of 1
hard 4c0 of 1
4c0 of 1
easy 4c1 of 1
hard 4b0 of 1
4b0 of 1
easy 4b0 of 1
hard 4a0 of 1
4a0 of 1
easy 4a0 of 1
3 Stars0 of 1
2 Stars1 of 1
1 Star0 of 1
0 Stars0 of 1
Bag of .....0 of 1
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.