A brilliant long route up the tallest section of Hægefjell. The route offers varied climbing in a sensational setting but be prepared for a long day.Approach - From the campground/parking area follow the well-worn path that leads to the south east face. Branch off almost directly below the large slanting groove that makes up the central section of the route. Tyrion is scratched into the rock at the start of the route. Solo/scramble up the initial slab and arrange a belay.1) N4, 45m. Climb easy rock through grassy ledges to a groove. Climb the groove to a belay at its top on an old fixed nut.2) N6-, 45m. From the belay, climb up a flake, move out right and make a slabby move to reach a left-slanting groove. Climb the groove with small friends for protection and a hard friction move near the end of the groove. Belay directly above.3) N4, 45m. An easier pitch trending left.4) N6-, 40m. Climb up and then right on a ramp to a bolt without hanger. Use this by sliding a nut over the head then friction up the slab. Above this enter the so-called 'Super Hangel', the slanting groove with a crack. Follow this to a 2 bolt belay.5) N5, 45m. Climb blocky terrain leftwards and up. Just when you start to worry there is some gear in a small crack before gaining a slab. Climb this to the next belay.6) N7, 17m. A short but pumpy pitch. Follow the bolts to a single bolt belay (or back it up with the last bolt on the pitch below).7) N5, 45m. Traverse right on a slab. The first bolt is difficult to reach - an option is not to clip it! Continue to another bolt and some gear before you reach a belay in a huge groove.8) N5, 50m. Follow the groove by smearing your way up. Getting off route here is impossible and some bigger cams (Friend 3.5 and 4 ) are useful.9) N6-, 45m. A beautiful pitch. Continue up the slabby groove and up steeper cracks to small but exquisite groove. On top of the cracks move along the edge to a belay.10) N5, 45m. Move out right from the belay to find some protection, then move left to a brilliant position just above the top of the big arch (exposed). Continue direct to a small ledge and belay.11) N3+, 50m. The angle of the climb is now leaning back and this pitch is just transport towards the top. Trend slightly left on slabby terrain to the next belay.12) N5, 40m. Continue straight up via a hard move (bolt) through slabby terrain to the last belay.Descent - From the top of the mountain, follow the ridge west (plenty of cairns) and pass one steep section before you head down a slab into a gully that cuts across your path. Turn right and descend more steeply, down a very well-worn path through the woods. This path joins a blue-marked path that leads down to the road beneath Hægefjell. Follow the road back to the camp. The descent takes approximately 1.5 hours. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Takes on the highest part of the crag via a series of grooves.
G. Wiechmann, J&W Fischer 1992