Rockfax Description
A superb little route that requires a range of climbing styles over its modest length. The rock is solid and the route well equipped. The views from the summit over the surrounding Cadini di Misurina group are superb.
Start beneath a rightwards slanting ramp just short of Forcella Diavolo.
1) I, 10m. Climb the right-leading ramp to reach a silver ring bolt and start of the route proper.
2) III, 25m. Climb the pleasant slab above aiming for a belay just left of the chimney.
3) III+, 35m. Traverse right into the large chimney. Climb this at the back to begin with, before passing a possible belay on the left wall where you climb the chimney on the outside. Exit left at the top to belay on a good ledge.
4) III, 20m. Traverse back along the ledge and make a large step over the chimney you've just climbed. Climb vertically for several metres before making a stepped, diagonal traverse up rightwards following the logical line. Belay just left of a large crack, directly below the summit.
5) III+, 25m. Climb the crack diagonally rightwards to reach the right-hand arete of Il Gobbo. Exposed but easy climbing along the arete leads to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
. A 135 mt route straight to the summit of an impressive Dolomite spire. Follow the North Face/chimney and ridge to the airy summit. Bolted belays. Descent is to make two abseils back down the route.

Fanton and Vecellio 02/Oct/1904

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.


ClimberDateStyle
Roberttaylor ?/Sep AltLd O/S
GDS 16/Aug AltLd O/S
with rob
fuzzysheep01 11/Jul AltLd dnf

Bailed at half way point due to approaching storm. Approach from West via cable path is much better than from the Rifugio side which is loose (and snowy at present).

with Noemie Ajenjo
Simon Pelly 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
jasoncash 27/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Will Hunt 28/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Decided to try and beat the thunderstorm to the top. Failed. It broke directly overhead and soaked us. Very atmospheric with huge cracks of lightning directly overhead.

paul79 14/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Tom Vivian ?/Jun/07 AltLd
with Ben Wray
DavidR 17/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
DavidR 17/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead
Hidden 17/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
clive-greenwood ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Steve Wright
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, bazthomas, Dilwat
Voting
High IV-
Mid IV-
Low IV-
High III+
Mid III+
Low III+
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set