30m.
A truly outstanding granite pitch taking the central crack of the buttress offering varied and sensational climbing on good rock. Bring a Double set of cams (from #3 BD camalot to small black totem), a single set of wires and one #5 cam and a broomstick. A good red BD microcam backs up the insitu knifeblade peg (not great) at the crux. A yellow BD microcam is handy for the final runout.
Gain the crack with difficulty. Jam up to a resting niche at the half way break. Exit steeply and continue until the crack closes to a seam and a face climbing crux at the insitu peg. Regain the crack and continue until it peters out on the slab. Trend left on friction boldly up slab to top.
* All the gear placed on lead except for the insitu peg and a microcam backup which were both put in on abseil.
Gain the crack with difficulty. Jam up to a resting niche at the half way break. Exit steeply and continue until the crack closes to a seam and a face climbing crux at the insitu peg. Regain the crack and continue until it peters out on the slab. Trend left on friction boldly up slab to top.
* All the gear placed on lead except for the insitu peg and a microcam backup which were both put in on abseil.
Kevin Kilroy, Niall Burns, Claire Hardy (Headpoint) 19/Jan/2024.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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Route of Interest
Terra Nova
Grade: E6 6a ***
(Aguerd Oudad)