180m, 6 pitches.
Historic route and the first to be climbed on this wall. Bolted and de-bolted at various points in time it is now fully trad with bolted belays. Some pegs remain with the exception of 1 bolt before the p3 layback.
The route name, "April's Fool", derives from Kosterlitz and Motti tricking the team of Manera, Bianco e Morello following directly behind the FA. They climbed the entire route without the use of pegs, impressing the second team with their "courage and boldness", only later to be shown the set of wires used - equipment unknown in Italy at the time and brought by Kosterlitz from the UK -possibly their first use in Italy.
The route name, "April's Fool", derives from Kosterlitz and Motti tricking the team of Manera, Bianco e Morello following directly behind the FA. They climbed the entire route without the use of pegs, impressing the second team with their "courage and boldness", only later to be shown the set of wires used - equipment unknown in Italy at the time and brought by Kosterlitz from the UK -possibly their first use in Italy.
G. Motti & M. Kosterlitz 31/Mar/1973.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| tomlake | 3 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bolted anchors, few bolts on P1 and one on P3 to protect the crux. Plenty opportunities to place gear. Dragons 1-4, 5 not so useful. Take doubles if you’re a wuss like me. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Bolted anchors, few bolts on P1 and one on P3 to protect the crux. Plenty opportunities to place gear. Dragons 1-4, 5 not so useful. Take doubles if you’re a wuss like me. |
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| tomlake | 1 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bolted anchors, few bolts on P1 and one on P3 to protect the crux. Plenty opportunities to place gear. Dragons 1-4, 5 not so useful. Take doubles if you’re a wuss like me. Descended Spigolo via 3 abseils on 60m ropes. Fairly new looking anchors with rings, scramble up and left to find the first anchor. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Bolted anchors, few bolts on P1 and one on P3 to protect the crux. Plenty opportunities to place gear. Dragons 1-4, 5 not so useful. Take doubles if you’re a wuss like me. Descended Spigolo via 3 abseils on 60m ropes. Fairly new looking anchors with rings, scramble up and left to find the first anchor. |
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Route of Interest
Stanlio
Grade: 5c ***
(Caporal)