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Fessura della Disperazione*** E2 5c

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[Manuel and Luca climbing Desperation Crack in Orco Valley, Gran Paradiso National Park, 3 kb]4 pitches. slanting 4 pitches iconical off width crack requiring n5-6 camelots...or a bold approach. A must do italian arrampicata classica.

Photo: Manuel and Luca climbing Desperation Crack in Orco Valley, Gran Paradiso National Park © Alpine Logistics
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This climb is in 22 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Excellent wide weirdness. Full route this time, lead all pitches. P2 is definitely the trickiest, and impressively run out even with one BD#6 (two would be safe). Anchor at S3 is dodgy, one loose piton, so back up with cams and ab gently onto big ledge to left to make decent from chains (or continue up). Also try not to pull on the huge spike at the end of P1 - it wobbles!
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Seb

James Thacker - 06/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/14

P1 only. Didn't have any big gear for the other pitches
Alex@home - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/14 with Tony Moody

soph - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Tony Stone

Borrowed 2 cam 5s and a cam 6 of some dope-smoking Swiss guys on the campsite. Good outing!
morganator - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Misha Gopaul

Just P1 this time, for the warm up. Be gentle with the huge spike/flake R of the belay - it moves alarmingly!
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/13 with Claudio

Mental
LRob - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/13

pitch 1 only.
Lenny - Lead - 30/Aug/13 with John

play on P1
ashtond6 - 31/Mar/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/12

Led p2 with 2x #6 and 1x #5 Friends.
harold walmsley - AltLd O/S - 31/May/12 with Colin Struthers

TomPR - Lead - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/10

What a battle. 3 mars bars for the grade
French Erick - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/08 with Dave Kerr

Sadly the grade voting doesn't offer an E14 option for this route.
Dave Kerr - AltLd - 30/Jul/08 with Erick Baillot

TomPR - Jul/08

Queit a run out on pitch 2 when you don't have big camelots with you. Pitch 5 was also pretty desperate.
michaelja - AltLd O/S - Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/08

Hammy - AltLd - 10/Aug/81 with Rob Lawson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
vix, Bradders, monsteratt, Hidden, ab tat

Voting
Total votes cast 23
hard E30 of 8
E30 of 8
easy E36 of 8
hard E22 of 8
E20 of 8
easy E20 of 8
hard E10 of 8
E10 of 8
easy E10 of 8
hard 6a0 of 7
6a0 of 7
easy 6a0 of 7
hard 5c0 of 7
5c6 of 7
easy 5c1 of 7
hard 5b0 of 7
5b0 of 7
easy 5b0 of 7
3 Stars8 of 8
2 Stars0 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent

Lead8 of 22 (36.4%)
Followed3 of 22 (13.6%)
Alt Leads8 of 22 (36.4%)
Unknown3 of 22 (13.6%)

'Climbed'7 of 22 (31.8%)
clean O/S15 of 22 (68.2%)