Rockfax Description
(Piano Dealer Lund's Dream) Not as popular as Pianohandler Lunds rute, but worthwhile, especilly the first pitch. Start on a ledge at the top of a steep approach trail about 50m left of PLr.
1) N5+, 35m. Climb a grassy V-groove to below the slanting overhang capping the corner. Step right into a thin crack in the wall and move up awkwardly (N5+) onto a sloping ledge. Belay (25m), or continue up steep cracks on the right (N5). Step right again, and up another short crack to a ledge on the prow of the buttress. A more direct version is loose and not recommended.
2) N5+, 25m. Traverse right across a slab and climb a short awkward groove to a good ledge. A short crack and corner lead to another spacious ledge.
3) N2, 20m. Climb easy cracks to the top. © Rockfax
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Grade: n5+ ***
(Djupfjord)