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|Lofoten > Glamtinden >|
|Ørneryggen|| VS 5a|
Ørneryggen Direct Start >>
|100m, 3 pitches. Eagle Ridge) An interesting climb with an exciting finish plus the bonus of a nice summit. Protection is generally good, but there is some crumbly rock on the first pitch. The climb is located on the steep buttress that forms the left edge of the South Face of Glåmtinden.
1) 5, 38m. Begin under the steep section of the ridge, in a sandy gully. Head straight up a steep groove to a finger crack on the right side of the ridge. Alternatively (easier) reach the start of the finger crack by traversing left under a roof. Both starts have some poor rock and loose flakes, though it doesn't detract too much from the climbing. Jam the crack, step out onto the steep left-hand wall and move up right to a small stance on the arete.
2) 5+, 32m. Step right into an easy crack and climb to its top. Traverse left and follow another vertical crack to an exposed ledge on the left, under a leaning wall, which fortunately is equipped with huge holds. Sprint up this to an excellent belay ledge. The loose groove to the right is an oft-climbed (poor) variation that isn't any easier.
3) 30m. Walk right on the ledge, then move up and back left (one awkward move up a corner) to reach the flat summit of Glåmtinden complete with summit log. © ROCKFAX|
This climb is in 12 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
mctinkno - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Rozzy
Daniel Armitage - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/12 with Charlotte Armitage
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/12
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/Jul/10
crazy windy. turned the last wall on the left
KeithAlexander - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Sgouris
Pretty good climbing, good to bag a summit
manwithacam - 12/Jul/09 with Sarah
Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jul/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07
Lead first and third pitch in the rain
Tim W - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Ali Kennedy
Lovely mini-alpine style ridge. Wilkie led the top pitch!
chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/03 with Clare Wilkie