UKC

110m, 4 pitches. A good route spoiled by guano and a poor final pitch; well worth the effort for the exposure.

1) 4b, 15m. From the right edge of the belay ledge, ascend the left-facing corner and easy angled wall until the first guano-covered ledge is reached. Belay below the steep black wall.

2) 5b, 30m. Ascend the black wall via interesting layback flakes (technical crux). After 8m traverse left onto the frontal face of the crag, via prominent jutting blocks with sensational exposure! Gain another guano covered ledge and move left until under a blocky overhang, ascend this and follow stepped corners and cracks until a belay can be made below an overhanging right facing corner crack. A great pitch.

3) 5a, 40m. Ascend the steep corner with bridging moves and step left onto a small ledge. Make a rightward-rising traverse onto a slightly overhanging juggy wall with gradually increasing exposure and then blast straight up this wall on good edges until a belay can be arranged on the ledge above. Another excellent pitch.

4) 4a, 25m. Follow the line of least resistance to the top of the crag (a little vegetated).

FA. Ross Barnes, Alasdair Fulton 28/Aug/2007.

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Illegal Alien

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Pabbay)

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