The Rat's Tail* VS 5a
[Gaby Masini fist jamming on The Rat's Tail, Higgar Tor, 3 kb]8m.

Rockfax Description
The hand-crack in a shallow groove gives good climbing to a tough exit on jams. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS.

Photo: Gaby Masini fist jamming on The Rat's Tail, Higgar Tor © stow
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This climb is in 253 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Must improve the jamming technique!
Georgie25 - Lead dog - 26/Sep/15

Mowglee - Lead β - 17/Sep/15 with Greg

dr_botnik - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/15 with Theo

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/15

DavidR - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/15 with Holly Adamthwaite

led it to the jamming, then down climbed and stripped the route, seconded and fell of the jammy top. must improve the jamming technique!
BAdhoc - 2nd dog - 25/Jul/15

every day I'm jammin .. Robbie not too impressed with Grit at this stage!
Stanners - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/15 with Robbie Leishman

stevorobs3 - Lead dog - Jul/15 with Michael Pearson

dom94 - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Jun/15

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jun/15

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/15 with Ryan Mcconnell

spidey - 2nd - 08/Jun/15 with Jimmy broomhead

evans859 - Lead dog - 04/Jun/15 with David Reid, John Beesley

Hidden - Solo O/S - Apr/15

robgixer - Lead - 2015

g1m147 - 2nd - 06/Dec/14 with Mick.

Sam Simpson - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/14 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/14

chrismadar - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/14 with Dan Biggin, Phil Rudd, Lloyd Bisgrove

Alex_Derbyshire - TR - 03/Oct/14

Hidden - Solo O/S - 03/Oct/14

Kasha's first VS lead. Should find most others a path now!
BTphonehome - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Kasha

kasha_gregson - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Bram

I heard this was awkward, felt really straight foward.
Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Calum harvey

pawel suhy - 2nd dnf - 11/Sep/14 with Trevor PCC

Andy Fielding - Lead - 07/Sep/14 with Paul Wright

Another typical Higgar tustle at the top out
goddamm7 - 2nd β - 07/Sep/14 with andy fielding

absolute epic. basically learnt how to handjam on route :s
TimG - Lead dog - 31/Aug/14 with John

benlatham07 - TR RP - 14/Aug/14

Matt Cooke - 2nd β - 30/Jul/14 with Jack Hodgson

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/14 with Jonny Forster

j4star - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/14 with Jon Ridley

cragsman9000 - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Neil

bob_cbr - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/14 with cragsman9000

Hidden - Solo - 07/Jul/14

finished for james
Lukem6 - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/14 with james "sasquatch"

Radical-G - Lead dnf - 26/May/14

MrBIond - 2nd - 19/May/14

mrteale - Lead O/S - 19/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/14

A real battle first route at Higgar Tor. First time and probably the last !
bantamdave - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/14 with Will

fatbuoybazza - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/14 with daveyw

mol - 2nd - 18/Apr/14 with Jesse

switch - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/14 with Sion

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 03/Mar/14

Cold, miserable, dogged it.
DBoothroyd - Lead dog - Dec/13 with Joe Mortimer

Will Sheaff - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/13 with Neil Colquhoun

j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13

bwestwood - 2nd - 20/Oct/13

MSchobitz - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/13

kermit_uk - Lead β - 05/Oct/13 with Steve Woolass

Peter Reynolds - Lead O/S - Oct/13 with ben westwood

Awkward more than difficult
edmitchell - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Emma Rowe

emmarowe - 2nd - 28/Sep/13 with ed mitchell

Lukem6 - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/13 with Jenny Monkey

VS when you can get the good jams in at the top.
AielSavage - Lead - 20/Aug/13

Type 2 fun. Awkward to get solid jams in the top.
franhammond92 - 2nd - 20/Aug/13

single fall near top, then cruised climb, will repeat
Lukem6 - Lead dog - 14/Aug/13 with Darren

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/13

Rested at the top a couple of times as there was not much to top-out on except a brutal jamming crack, but plenty of protection at least. Not bad for my second VS though! Even Matt said it was really hard
inspiration_needed - Lead dog - 14/Jul/13 with Mat Cooper

Felt this was a HVS 5a. Very difficult. Managed it though.
andy.smythe - Lead - 08/Jul/13

soph - Lead - 03/Jul/13 with Lee Cooper

dionisys - 2nd - Jul/13 with andy smythe, barry vanderhoven

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

Colin Scotchford - Lead - 16/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 03/May/13

Nasty thrutchy crack pain
alp79 - 2nd dog - 03/May/13 with Jonny Ashton

peteramsden - Lead β - Feb/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jan/13

dav - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/12 with Gill B

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Nov/12

failed on final crack. Easy climb until the top
eburki1 - Lead dnf - 07/Oct/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Sarah

Steven Andrews - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Zeb

Jim Malo - 2nd dog - 11/Aug/12 with Barry, Deborah

fatbuoybazza - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/12 with jim, deborah

Hidden - Lead - 11/Aug/12

jshields - 2nd - 08/Aug/12 with Roman Jivkov

davewsargent - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/12 with mike dowsett

WillDoyle - Lead dog - 08/Aug/12

Packs a punch...!
jack89 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/12 with Brian

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/12

Pythonist - Solo O/S - 27/Jun/12

RichyBOYY - Lead - 26/Jun/12 with Arthur parker

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Jun/12

quickdrawmcraw - 2nd - 21/Jun/12 with steve

kermit_uk - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Steve Woolass

Helen backed off the top out then I lead with most gear in place. Perfect fist jam at the top then a difficult spicy top out.
climbinmunkey - Lead β - 10/Jun/12 with Helen

Tried to lead first and got psyched out trying to do top move - a bit damp and greasy - second went OK.
helenstuart - 2nd RP - 10/Jun/12 with Mike

At last, I topped out on my nemesis route. Twice before I have grovelled and slipped out of the crack. Don't believe the guide book write up about this route not being brutal - it is. Felt harder than The File for me.
Jimbo C - Lead β - 29/May/12 with Chris

Morwood - 2nd - 28/May/12 with gillywillyhoo

gillywillyhoo - Lead - 28/May/12 with James Morwood

tomthecoolperson - Lead O/S - 28/May/12 with Andrew

Vs 4c???? And definitely not the easiest climb on that section
Deezel65 - Lead dog - 24/May/12

cragtyke - 2nd - 24/May/12 with Ross

Really enjoyed it, dirt gives it character. Top moves were really fun, easy if you can jam (bomber fist jams). Even better was watching Adam attempt it, priceless. lol
Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Adam Jordan

AMJ098 - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12 with Dan Geh

moberg - 2nd rpt - 13/May/12

masa-alpin - 2nd rpt - 15/Apr/12 with Doug S

Hidden - 2nd β - 15/Apr/12

This and 'The File' were desperate. Harder than any of the HVS/E1 routes I've led. Maybe, when the grit is cooler it'll seem easier.
gavinpeach - 2nd dog - 27/Mar/12 with Andrew Deacon

lead with most gear already in place.
deacondeacon - Lead - 27/Mar/12

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Daniel Heath - Solo β - 24/Mar/12 with Mike Smith

easy climbing until the top crack. VS if you can jam, if you cant it feels very bold pulling over the top!
ben1987 - Lead O/S - Jan/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Nov/11

Calder - 2nd - 01/Oct/11 with Mike B, Mark

Diggler - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Mike Buddle, Calder

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Sep/11

Jack00 - Solo O/S - 02/Sep/11

Initially tried to lead as, not having aguidebook looked easier than the cotter, got to last lift but that was it - couldnt even second it. This seemed harder than the cotter (HVS 5b) next to it. The thing is that the overhang is not obvious from the bottom,
PaulWatson - 2nd dnf - 23/Aug/11 with Paul

This is a tricky bugger
fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Mikael, liv_the_div

andybirtwistle - Lead - 24/Jul/11 with Mark Elwell, Keith Lonsdale

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Jul/11

Hidden - Solo dnf - 02/Jun/11

Alex 74 - Lead - 21/May/11 with Ian c, Dave m

Bloody hard finish, a beast of a route almost got the better of me :o
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/11 with james pcc

mwatson - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

gazfellows - Lead - 13/Nov/10

hellboundblr - 2nd - 17/Oct/10 with Pete Nugent

Pete Nugent - Lead - 17/Oct/10 with Bryan R

ahhhhh, had a bet to place my whole rack on this route 23 pieces in 8m and took 50 mins well worth it for a free pint, found the top bit well hard, and a sketchy top out with sweaty hands. Dylan couldn't second
Olli-C - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/10 with dylan, chi

Suprisingly awkward!
madasten - 2nd - 13/Oct/10 with Gaz

First route ive needed to use jam's
Souljah - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Andi T

Climber1806 - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/10

Maxim2023 - 2nd - Sep/10 with Kathy Meredith

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/10

Found hard for VS.
frume - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with mark, Ben, Rory Juss

benjizac - 2nd - 22/Aug/10 with Paul Ireland

nice solid jamming, topping out had me stumped initially though
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/10 with Liam Ingram

Liam Ingram - 2nd dog - 06/Aug/10 with Jamie Sparkes

Fell from the last move. Gutted not to get the onsight. Ian belayed like a pro, it was his first catch of a leader fall.
ajoliver - Lead dog - 10/Jul/10 with Ian Lett

schaff - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Tim

howlingbaboon - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/10 with Rob

newvena - Lead dnf - 21/May/10 with ben

climbing_rocks1983 - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Kieran

Ken Taylor - 2010

let my mate lead this one, thank god i did lol
Ewano - 2nd - 2010

the sun was out when i started it but then it snowed and im sure i had frost bite in my fingers. way to cold to finish, plus the top was covered in 6inch of snow. try again when its a bit warmer
davross1986 - Lead dnf - 20/Dec/09 with Dean Dalton

Pilch - 2nd rpt - 12/Dec/09

a better effort than before, still cant imagine why i had my watch on though
Pilch - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/09 with Ed

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Oct/09

colin milton - Lead - 26/Sep/09 with chris orme

Tony Little - 2nd β - 19/Sep/09 with Ed Brown

galpinos - 2nd - 19/Sep/09 with Ben T

tmawer - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/09 with tina

Jon Dittman - 2nd - 06/Sep/09

tomthecoolperson - Lead dog - 17/Aug/09 with Andrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/09

willjh - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/09 with David Spencer

mattcyp88 - Lead β - 17/Aug/09 with Will Horton, Jon Pownall, Dave Spencer

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/09

ed woods - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/09 with Tom & Adam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/09

hate sloppers and hand jams, last move, full fist hand jams followed by mega slopper top out! not nice
axeman - Lead dnf - 02/Aug/09 with grace

The exit is a bit of a grinder!
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 26/Jun/09 with Colin Binks

Rampikino - Lead - 21/Jun/09 with Cat

belly flopped over the top a bit, but it was easier than many other VS routes I've done.
gethin_allen - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09 with Flicka

Hidden - Lead - Jun/09

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 28/May/09 with Mark Williams

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 28/May/09 with Wee man

Topping out was the crux which is where I fell off. Would have tried again but was running out of skin. Masa finished it for me after taping up.
lucasp - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/09 with masa

max_chan - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Lou

Luke tried leading but backed off. Then I finished the route, using the runners Luke had left. First proper jamming route for Bonnie.
masa-alpin - Lead β - 25/Apr/09 with Matt H, Bonnie, P Luke, Andy Rich

Pixie-Andy - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Masa

monsteratt - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Morgan and Maxwell

Maxim2023 - Solo O/S - 11/Apr/09

Lewis Andrew - Solo O/S - 02/Apr/09

Hidden - Solo - 08/Feb/09

keith leonard - 2009

Nice and steady up the first part, if you can't jam it might as well be, well very hard!! Took 2 nice flys on this before heaving myself in true style less form on to the top. Hard if jamming ain't your thing easy if it is.
chrisbussell - Lead dog - 08/Oct/08 with Tim O'Neill

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/08

climbingrick - Solo O/S - 13/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/08

barni - 2nd - 28/Aug/08 with Oli

Stig - 2nd rpt - 07/Aug/08 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Forearm jamming???
Shauna - 2nd - 06/Aug/08 with Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/08

jcurley - Lead dog - 29/May/08 with James

Stig - 2nd rpt - 29/May/08 with Joe

Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/May/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/08

Hidden - 2008

scullymammoth - Lead dnf - 30/Dec/07 with Dave Lumb

danm - 2nd - Oct/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/May/07

SecretSquirrel - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with Nick Smith

peter myers - 2nd - May/07 with Peter Garlik

Apharri - Solo - Apr/07 with Andre Hedger

Nicos - Solo O/S - 02/Mar/07 with solo

Ian Hamer - Lead O/S - 2007 with Mog

Brutal finish!
220bpm - Lead - 12/Nov/06 with Dave

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/06 with Adam Renshaw

Hopevalleypaul - TR dog - 28/Jul/06 with self belay

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/06

adam carless - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/06 with Nick Smith - UKC

kevp - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Tom Odling

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/06

Nicos - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/06 with danny carden

UndercoverElephant - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/05

8mts VS 4c 1star The book says, re jamming, “That this is the least brutal pitch on this part of the rocks!” The start was nice, the middle section good, the top part & top out was…..Mike says….’In need of some jamming’ and in fact was where Mike lost most of his flesh! So much for the ‘least brutal’ pitch!
Mike Lee - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/05 with Jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/05

MeMeMe - Lead O/S - Aug/05

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 16/Jan/05

Hidden - 2005

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Sep/04

Adam Potter - 2nd - 06/Aug/04

Ander - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/04 with Fletch

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/04

Smelly Fox - Lead - Apr/04 with Luisa Giles

Lead after geri backed off.
Stig - Lead dog - 21/Nov/03 with Geraldine Lawless

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/03

Dave Mason - Lead O/S - Jul/03 with Trev Tatler

Jon Pilling - 2nd O/S - Apr/03 with steve prescott

Jon Greengrass - 2003

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 10/Sep/02 with A. Murray

AJ007 - Lead - 05/Sep/02

dan gibson - Solo - Sep/02

Hidden - Solo rpt - 26/May/02

Hidden - Lead - Aug/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/00

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jul/00

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/98

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 17/May/98 with Nicky

Hidden - 2nd β - 18/Oct/97

ChrisJD - Lead - Aug/96 with ChrisC

uphillnow - Lead - Aug/96 with John Hubbard

StevePr - Lead - 1996 with Alan

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 23/Aug/95 with John Cutcliffe

shoulders - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/95 with dai

Hidden - Solo - 19/May/95

Roget - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/93 with jon

steve prior - Lead - May/90 with Rob W

Diary is blank - lists a VS, which I'm sure will be this one.
samt - Lead - 15/Oct/89 with Dad

mark-abz - Lead - 03/Jun/88 with Andy W

Chris Terrey - Lead - Apr/80 with Ken Taylor

babymoac - 30/Mar/80

Dave Musgrove - 04/Aug/74

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/67

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
BareBears, Hedley, newvena, JLS

Total votes cast 133
hard HVS0 of 49
HVS1 of 49
easy HVS11 of 49
hard VS31 of 49
VS6 of 49
easy VS0 of 49
hard HS0 of 49
HS0 of 49
easy HS0 of 49
hard 5b0 of 48
5b0 of 48
easy 5b0 of 48
hard 5a0 of 48
5a2 of 48
easy 5a26 of 48
hard 4c15 of 48
4c4 of 48
easy 4c1 of 48
3 Stars2 of 36
2 Stars7 of 36
1 Star22 of 36
0 Stars5 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP