Rockfax Description
An exciting direct line. Climb the blunt rib on the right-hand side of the face to a flake. Follow this and, from the top of the crack, climb the wall via a long reach or short hop from the snapped flake. Finish with a flourish. Stopping to place a cam above the crux is pumpy but a good idea if you are struggling. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Bolger 1979

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, Trad climbs for sport climbers, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

deacondeacon 17/Oct Lead RP

Failed on the onsight, failed on the ground up, but just managed it on the headpoint. Great route, but the crux for me was getting to the crux with enough juice in the tank . For the crux I went left hand on the crimp, then left hand again to the break.

theomoore 13/Oct Lead G/U

In the dark. Scary on the top out when I couldn't see anything. This new setup for logging climbs is shite on a mobile.

pearson9596 12/Jul Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jul 2nd dog
stevorobs3 ?/Jul 2nd dog
Andy Peak 1 31/May Lead

friction not grate today fell of allot, so much fun!

Andy Peak 1 16/Apr Lead

Wow how much fun, enjoyd the falling of as much as the climbing up, Top gear placed on lead, can't wait to head back for the full ground up all gear on lead! The hardest move iv dun above gear!

with Si
robertmctague 22/Mar Lead G/U

So good.

Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 16/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Seconded this in 2010

with Mick Mortimer
Matt Cooke 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Teappleby 21/Jul/14 TR dnf

Pete wanted to practice setting up top ropes for SPA assessment, so I said I'd have a go at this route. Got to the crux section, but was so boxed. My sport strength has dropped off a bit since Easter!

Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead dnf
dominic lee 23/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with dave turnbull
Haydn Jones 22/Sep/13 Lead G/U

2nd try ground up

quiffhanger 22/Sep/13 Lead β

Loads of beta and pre placed gear made for a pretty low-effort ascent. Still decided to ignore the sane beta for the crux and pull out a sketch desperate slap instead!

marcduhig 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Gear was in before the crux but in my defence of calling it an onsite the gear is really not the problem. Came down to the hand jam twice before jumping to the rail.

with Ross, Haydn
Daniel Heath 18/Jun/13 Lead RP

3rd go today (with gear in). Should have pulled harder the first time

with Hayden Richards
dav 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Gill B
Hidden 16/Feb/13 Lead dnf
nathanlee 13/Jan/13 Lead

3rd go GU, on Jacobs gear. Big fight, I'm unfit.

with Crew
dominic lee 13/Jan/13 Lead rpt
jacobjacob 13/Jan/13 Lead RP

Ground up, second go after about 6 foot pops on the onsight, the first 5 of which I somehow managed to stay on... wierd.

Joughton 08/Sep/12 2nd β

Watched a very talented climber do laps on this for a film, and was asked if I wanted to second. The route just gets you more and more pumped until you get to the crux, then slap slap slap up the breaks with rubbish feet.

dannyboy83 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Pumpy, used right hand on the minging crimp unlike all the photos I've just seen now

Jethro ?/Jun/12 TR
mwatson 21/Apr/12 Lead rpt
pmurdy 21/Apr/12 Lead dnf
Apharri 05/Mar/12 Lead RP

had to dyno

JRae 07/May/11 2nd
Ethan 13/Nov/10 Lead

3rd go, ground up

with Don Walker
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead rpt
TomPR 02/Oct/10 Lead
Oli 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Steady, just a bit pumpy.

with TomPR
Tez29 03/Jun/10 Lead dog

One fall from the crux. Too tired on following attempts. Definitely get next time...

with Tom, Ivan
Hidden 18/Oct/09 2nd
dan gibson 18/Oct/09 Lead RP
with michael porter
Gus 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn ?/Aug/08 Lead
with JulesV
Ram MkiV 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S

steady, wouldn't have complained at e4.... really really good though.

with Barrows & Eddie B
Hidden 03/Nov/07 Lead β
Hidden 30/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/07 Lead rpt
lx ?/Apr/06 Lead


Boy ??/2006 -
Adam Ellwood 29/Oct/05 Lead
with sven, kells
shark 20/Aug/05 Lead rpt
with Chris Williams
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 2nd β
with Nic Sellers
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S

6b if you're less than 5ft5!

with Pete Squires
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/01 Lead G/U
CrashMat Rob 12/Aug/00 TR
with Miles, Martin Whelan, Nicky
CrashMat Rob 06/Nov/99 TR
with Nicky
CrashMat Rob 17/May/98 TR
with Nicky
sadams 15/Mar/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/91 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
harry_lewis, Hidden, theomoore, dom94, pete_naylor, climberchristy, Hidden, sgl0jd, jimzz, JRae, Harry Chaplin, martroberts, Nick1812P, Hidden, Sam Marks, aretherenoneleft, Matt Reid, Hidden, Hidden, alexanderjwatts, richiebongo, drcorbasisgod, ShaunD, Hidden, Hidden, Tez29, Hidden, Matt Fry, Tom Eagle, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 18
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set