2nd pitch felt fully E1! Rest was straightforward apart from the wet needle crack which was a fine lead in the wet by Pete. Just an amazing mountain experience. Dave Douglas - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Pete Clarkson
very good route with lots of variety. Was very glad of bomber protection on the needle crack as it was soaked!
peter.clarkson1 - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14 with dave douglas
pretty wet in places. needle crack very wet!
arose - AltLd - 10/Sep/14 with Adam Macintosh
Mackinclimb - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/14
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 02/Sep/14
P2 (belayed at 40m below steep rib), P4, P7 & P9. Sent Neil the wrong way on P1 due to following the line given incorrectly in SMC 2005 Scottish Rock Climbs (SMC 2007 The Cairngorms gives the correct line & description for this pitch)! Bit damp on P1, P2 & P8 but still as good as first time I did it - what a brilliant route!
Gudge - AltLd rpt - 02/Sep/14 with Neil Davies
nedly - AltLd - 02/Sep/14 with Chris Gudgeon
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/14
twoplates - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with dave sharpe
malone - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/14 with tom shaw
Set out and got rained off after doing the hard pitch 2 so went straight back the next day and re-climbed to top of pitch 2 again. From the belay we could not make any sense of the route description or topo. We were definitely in right place having done the roof at the top of P2 past an in-situ nut under the overhang. We climbed all over that face trying to get the route to match the guide and never did. The bottom is obvious and you can see the top pitch but the middle section was a total dog's arse. We ended up abbing off gutted.
Steve Perry - AltLd dnf - 12/Jun/14 with Katie Long
The 2nd pitch is quite serious, absolutely stunning route though! http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/threading-needle.html
Samuel Wainwright - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14 with Caelan
CaelanB - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14
A bit cold and greasy for first couple of pitches but improved after that. Led pitches I seconded last time around.
Captain Solo - AltLd rpt - 29/May/14 with Colin M
Third time lucky on this route having walked in twice before but decided against it due to weather. Despite the first couple of pitches being cold and damp it was well worth the wait!
colin.morrison - AltLd O/S - 29/May/14 with Ewan L
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/May/14
Tim_Gomersall - AltLd - 16/May/14 with McBain
chapmand - 2014
Hidden - AltLd - 20/Aug/13
Alternate leads but James did the hard stuff. The needle pitch is sensational. A bit concerned about the amount of loose rock at the top, though. No one else to be seen on a windy but otherwise great day.
planetmarshall - AltLd - 04/Aug/13 with James Jackson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/13
Led p.1,2,5,6. Pitch 2 is amazing, and the hard pitch of the route I think. Thin fingers crack was shorter and harder than expected. Johannes did well leading the needle pitch which seems very intimidating! Fantastic day out!
bnewman - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Johannes
MonkeyDawson - AltLd - 14/Jul/13 with Simon Smith
An excellent outing. We left our sacks at the top of the crag and took only a hydration rucksack. Wires, cams and hexes all worked well. Some old pegs in-situ, most are very old & of dubious value.
GaryK - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Roger Webb, Martin Hind
Nothing particularly hard but a good day out.Light rack and seconds coming up together speeded things up overtaking young Inverness team on Steeple allowed us to gloat a bit.
Lone Rider - AltLd - 14/Jul/13 with Gary Kinsey, Roger Webb
first two pitches of steeple then the needle to the top, very good
s kennedy - AltLd rpt - 12/Jul/13 with coel
Coel Hellier - AltLd - 12/Jul/13 with Stu
Led P2, 5 and 6. Needle crack pitch is a beast. Brilliant route.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Jamie Sparkes
Led even pitches. The best mountain route I have climbed in Scotland. Last pitch one of the most interesting I have ever seen, possible to employ every technique imaginable on it. Somehow missed the crack for thin fingers pitch and accidentally climbed the corner of the Steeple before realising the mistake and abbing off it to finish the Needle as normal.
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Tom e
stunning route, good intro to this beast of a crag.
The Big Sender - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with robert taylor
Fantastic route, lead P1, 3+4 together then 7 and the needle crack. found the Crack the hardest work, pitch 4 was fantastic!
article here: http://bit.ly/14oPaSJ
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Liam Ingram
Back again to this brilliant route with Martina (last time was 2001). Perfect conditions, dry and no midgies. Fantastic!
brianrunner - AltLd - 07/Jul/13 with martina
Great route with great lads
pete87abs - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Graham, rob
Lead the crux pitches and a few others. Nice, long route with good, varied climbing but no single pitch was amazing. A group caused some rockfall above us which was really scary!
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Olli Crudge
Felt propper ill. Eyes couldn't focus the rock, almost fell asleep belaying. Managed to lead P1, P5 (half of it), the crack for thin fingers (P6) and half of needle crack after Rach used up all the gear and crawled into the chimney and belayed while standing on a chockstone. Slept Well. Longest route so far.
Olli-C - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Rachel Slater
Brilliant! The last pitch is speleological lunacy! Wont forget that quickly.
Callum_Johnson - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Uisdean, Stuart M
Lead pitches 3, 6 and 9 (involved removing the helmet to fit through!)
StuMsg - AltLd - 29/Jun/13 with Uisdean H, Callum J
Great climb, I think mainly because of the ground it covers and the crag it is on. Last pitch is the memorable one for me, along with the small traverse under the roof.
geoff.comley - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/13 with Simon
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/13 with Geoff
Got a bit lost at the end and finished up the Steeple. It was still an amazing climb
RKirke - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13
Alex the Alex - AltLd O/S - Jun/13
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/13
captain - 2013
captain - 2013
Hidden - 2013
Hidden - 2013
Murko Fuzz - 2013
Josiemc - 2013
savaged by midges all the way... took 5 stars of the 4 stars route. Marred a classic. Despite seeing that some of the climbing was great, I mostly did not enjoy the day. Shame really.
French Erick - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Dave Kerr, Karl Atherton, Dave Kerr
SuperMike64 - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12
Rory lead crux + thin fingers crack. I reverted my decision at the last minute and lead the Needle crack which is the most exposed and amazing mountain pitch i've done. Bluebird day and warm slabs on the plateau. Awesome.
peter.herd - AltLd - 10/Aug/12 with Rory Brown
Hidden - AltLd - 10/Aug/12
great day out despite being horrifically hungover!
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with kevin mcgrath
Vicki M - AltLd - Jun/12 with Don, Mina
Matthew Robinson - Lead - 28/Mar/12 with Sandy
PAJames - 27/Mar/12
Hidden - Mar/12
Hidden - 2012
JonG - 2012
Patzl - 2012
Patzl - 2012
Stone Idol - 2012
Led all pitches except the last. Needle crack pitch interesting after a long day.
cuthill76 - Lead - 30/Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Jul/11
glenngordon - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with pamela millar
amazing route. this is why we go into the mountains!
david wands - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with tim newton
brilliant and varied climbing. pitch 2 probably the crux. thought the second 5b pitch soft. one awkward move on the crack for thin fingers. the needle crack was the highlight though. didn't know what was coming and was expecting a nice 5a bridge up the corner to find an offwidth corner chimney...really made the route. i think i'll always remember my surprise as i peered up at it. felt great at the top of it and threading the needle. one of the most enjoyable and varied climbs ive done.
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with david wands
Amazing, from the moment you leave the ground to the final squeeze through the chimney.
t_stork - AltLd - 03/Jul/11 with Anna Wells
Anna_wells - AltLd - 03/Jul/11 with Tom _ Stork
Awesome! Every pitch is interesting. I thought the crack for thin fingers the crux though, (just in case you thought it was over after the two 5b pitches!) Top crack damp.
jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with Carol
started with the first pitch and threaded needle on the last
Carol Goodall - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with Jonnie Williams
Got a bit off route on pitches 4 and 5. Also against all the evidence of chalk, rock wear, guidebook description and piton was still trying to enter the grove of stone bastion for far too long before remembering there are no 6a/b moves on Needle!
henwardian - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Lasma
Lasma - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with henwardian
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 03/Jun/11
Hidden - Lead - Jun/11
Stayed beneath the Shelterstone having climbed the Steeple the previous day. Amazing route! Led P 1,3,5,6,8
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 30/Apr/11 with Dave Kirby
tallthinmonkey - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Rafa
newtonmore - 18/Apr/11
Hidden - 2011
newtonmore - AltLd - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10
Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Ferdia
burto - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with adam russel
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Andy
Fantastic, especialy the 8th pitch, one of my top pitchs climbed ever! 2nd pitch was my crux and felt bold.
sebrider - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Sophie
sophiecb - 2nd - 25/Jul/10 with Seb
After initial route finding and gully crossing antics we re-gained the route for the thin fingers crack and so on...the Needle crack - majestic, bold, wide, deep, beautiful!
simon_D - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Ben
Ben Sharp - 2nd - 23/Jul/10 with Simon D (Edinburgh)
Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/10
Lead pitch one in the rain. Abseiled off. Can't wait to get back on it.
bnewman - Lead dnf - 05/Jul/10 with Johannes
totally awesome. top crack is amazing. led 3,4, and 7,8. strictly alternating pitches would seem a little unfair!
tomdude - AltLd - 03/Jul/10 with rob
robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 03/Jul/10 with Tom
A fantastic climb, we switched leads so we both got a 5a and a 5b pitch each. The needle crack is superb
Captain Solo - AltLd - 03/Jul/10 with Peter
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10
Only did top section after doing the Spire but loved the pitches, great link up....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10
Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/10
Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jun/10
Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Jun/10
Had done the first three pitches before, then bailed off onto "Postern", but the top six were clean onsight today. Second top "chimney crack" pitch was just awesome. Had to take off camelbak, helmet and slings across chest to wriggle through the "eye" at the top :D
freudy_love - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Stewart Munro
Finally ticked it today after backing off it before, nackered. Great adventure.
telemarker - AltLd β - 26/Sep/09 with Paul F
kevg - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/09 with Pete M
epic! benighted at the crux pitch.
Tim Hamlet - AltLd - 10/Sep/09
twright180 - Lead O/S - Sep/09
Hidden - AltLd - 22/Aug/09
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 08/Aug/09
Emily led P1, P3; Thom led P2, P4, P6, P7+8 (run together); I led P5. Rained every now and then throughout the climb. Backed off top pitch and abbed off in 3 abseils.
stuaart - AltLd dnf - 08/Aug/09 with Thom Simmons, Emily Ward
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 08/Aug/09
peterp - AltLd - Aug/09 with Pablo, Sully
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/09
Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jun/09
groovypiper - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/09 with Pete (old)
Lead Pitches 2,4,6,8. Pitch 8 is absolutely brilliant!
Stewart B - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/09 with Karen McIntyre
Great route with varied, exciting climbing. I led the odd numbered pitches. The chimney/corner pitch (P8) was wet and slimy inside the chimney, but its still a fantastic pitch if you can bridge/layback the chimney rather than resorting to traditional chimney techniques.
Chris wilson - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09 with John F
jored - Lead - Jun/09 with Chris W
adw07 - AltLd - 31/May/09 with Andy Main
An amazing route!!! The first pitch was a good warm up for what was to come... the first 5b pitch was the crux for me and was seriously scary, with hard moves and only sufficient gear, had to give myself a talking to several times. The second 5b involved some awesome thugy flakes interspersed with a delicate traverse and felt much easier. The crack for thin hands was great but shorter than I imagined. The needle crack was an amazing pitch one of the best I've climbed, with 7 pitches of exposure, absorbing corner/thin chimney climbing and great gear. Led pitches 2,4,8.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Warren
jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Carlos
gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - 24/May/09 with Neil
Johann - AltLd O/S - May/09 with Alex Wheeldon
barney_edin - AltLd - 2009
It started to rain heavily while I was stuck in the Needle offwidth. Climbing Teflon must be easier!
hwackerhage - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/08 with Adam
Adam Henly - 2nd - 27/Jul/08 with Henning Wackenhage
michael83 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/08 with Mark, Stuart
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/08
paul led even i led odd pitches. a classic in every way. the face steepens as you gain height. last two pitches proving very intimidating and exposed.
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/08 with paul
Paulww - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/08 with Ryan
s kennedy - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/08 with mark mosgrove, michel mcghie
Got to the top of pitch 3 and we were to tired to continue so back off and finished up Postern. Top couple of pitches look good though.
telemarker - AltLd dnf - Jul/08 with Paul F
freudy_love - AltLd dnf - Jul/08 with Stewart Munro
First pitch has hard move for 4b over the overlap, and top chimney crack is intimadating but very well protected and requires full body contact and not soo bad once you are in it. Otherwise nice and never too hard
James Humble - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/08 with Tom
Lead P1 and P2 on one rope to get the other back.
Paz - AltLd dnf - 07/Jun/08 with SC
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/08 with Christian L
Bruce Kerr - Lead - 01/Jun/08 with Ivor McCourt
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008
Alternating leads with Charlie leading the more difficult pitches.
An enjoyable route - some of the pitches not given a technical grade in the current SMC guidebook do deserve a technical grade.
Descend by Forefinger Gully not Castle Gates Gully (which is loose and unpleasant).
RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Charlie Hill
What a mission, bivvied in Scheachta the night before. Ally led first pitch and we alt lead all the way to the weary end. Back to the car for midnight and reception by mountain rescue after failure to call home due to lack of signal in Avon Basin.
jazzyjackson - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/07 with Ally
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/07
sparkass - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with Mike Shorter
dave o - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Julia H
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/07
Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 05/Aug/07 with Mark Stevenson
Big classic route. Bloody cold day!
Ally Baba - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Gav Swinton
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/07
mshorter - AltLd - 2007 with dunc
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/06
andyinglis - AltLd - 05/Aug/06 with ross barnes
Broke leg on last pitch.
Climbed out after fall then had a 3.5h walkout.
Thankfully a bottle of Talisker eased the pain!!
Ross Barnes - AltLd - 05/Aug/06 with Andy I
Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/06
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/06
akhughes - AltLd - 2005 with Steptoe
Hidden - AltLd - 2005
Dangerous Dave - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/04 with Wheatbag
Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jun/04
Brian McC - 2004 with Brian Duthie
Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/03 with Luisa Giles
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/02 with James Menzies
Gudge - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Gareth Hughes
climbed 3 times now and one of my favourite routes in britain. The needle crack at the top is wonderful and fairly easy. I think this is low in the grade E1 and a must do!
brianrunner - Jun/01 with martina
John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/00 with Elliot Palmer
graeme gatherer - 2000
I got the crack for thin fingers. Toby threaded the Needle.
Note to self - sandbag someone else with the crack next time.
Duncan I - AltLd - Jun/98 with Toby Hulf
andybrown114 - AltLd - 23/Jul/97 with Stewart Leitch
phardman - 20/Jul/97
Perfection - especially for a team of 'different' abilities! Leading all the odd pitches meant nothing harder than 4b. P2 definitely very solid E1, needs confidence and the right line... P4 easier but still needed a good sunbathe on the fine ledge at end of P5 to settle down. Loved P7 forging upward to the chimney. V grateful Rob showed how to bridge the chimney. To Rob's disgust, threading the eye just didn't appeal so led the wall alongside - will have to go back. Mr T & Hewie followed us: Rich's classic quote arriving chastened at the top - "I need to go back to climbing Severes with girls".
nick everett - AltLd - Jul/96 with Rob
Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 23/Jun/96 with Alan Smith
Climbed in a period of excellant weather. Supurb.
David Smith - AltLd - 23/Jun/95
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/94
Hidden - AltLd - 1994
Budge - AltLd O/S - 1992 with Dave Wharton
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/91
kp64zl - AltLd - Aug/91
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 20/May/90 with brian jones
Mike Owen - 02/Jul/87 with Murray Hamilton, Pete Whillance
stuart100 - 2nd O/S - Jun/87 with Pete Goodwin
graham lawrie - 1987
Hammy - AltLd - 21/Jun/86 with Rob Lawson
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden - 1985
Hamish Leslie - Lead O/S - 1984 with Samson
Bob - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/83 with M. Lynch
Bruce Kerr - Lead - 01/Aug/81 with Lindsay Rennie
neil3965 - AltLd - Aug/79 with Bill McCrae
Probably the best mountaineering day out I've had in British hills.
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 01/Jun/79 with Jim Worthington
redjerry - AltLd O/S - Sep/78 with Jim Melrose
Chris Craggs - AltLd - 1975 with Doug