Annaclaire16 18/Oct AltLd O/S

A great day out stolen from the autumn, we'll have to come back for the proper finish! Blaeberries on every belay! Optimistically set off in dark from ski centre! It didn't seem to have rained much lately but no one seemed to have told the dripping cracks that. Heavy dark grey sky & cold rock all day! Micro cams handy. Quite a lot of pegs and stuck nuts/cams in this route, perhaps 20 for whole route, most in not great condition, cracked pegs/ dodgy old nuts etc, none I think essential. In pitch 2, the cracks are mostly rather shallow and open so whilst there a good number of holds, don't saunter past good gear placements, there are just enough. (The only fixed gear in that pitch is an uninspiring micronut under the final overhang). Also on pitch 2 so long as your ropes are 50m then carry on to the ledge for a comfy belay rather than belaying semi-hanging a few metres below. Too blindly following some old chalk traces we carried on straight up and arrived at the foot of the Steeple corner. Phew, managed it free, just! Reading others' comments, this seems to be a pretty common error and gives a good route always on reasonably sound rock and gear but if you want to keep to Needle, stay right after pitch 4, the first 5b pitch.

with Simon
Barry Harper 02/Oct AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep AltLd
Hidden 19/Sep -
Steve Perry 15/Sep AltLd

I did P2, 3, 5, 7 The Needle crag is immense, the exposure is like climbing up the outside of a skyscraper. Thing is though all the other pitches are fantastic P2 (5b), P4 (5b), Crack for thin fingers (5a) are brilliant too. Hardest physical pitch is P2 but The Crack for Thin Fingers has a hard crux and save some in the tank for the Needle Crack. 4****

with Masa
masa-alpin 15/Sep AltLd

I lead P1, P4, P6+7, P9 and Steve did P2, P3, P5, P8. The rock was damp and the conditions far from ideal; P4(5b) was easier than many pitches including P1(4b) , P2(5b) was E2 5c, P6(Crack for thin fingers) was 5c on slimy rock, etc. The penltimate pitch (Needle Crack) was awesome! Dawn to Twilight 13.5 hours from carpark to carpark.

R0bbie 23/Aug AltLd O/S
with Taba
smokeyj ?/Aug AltLd O/S

lead pitches

with Danny
RebekahD 27/Jun AltLd
with Tim Miller
Timothy Miller 27/Jun AltLd O/S

Night ascent, bit wet and cold in places but still awesome!

Graham Westbrook 16/Jun Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Started to rain on the Needle pitch but luckily it didn't get too heavy. Probably the best route I've ever done. Freezing when we topped out. Very long day but sensational nonetheless.

with Mark Jackson
mjackson 16/Jun 2nd
Lawrie Brand 15/Jun AltLd O/S

Second pitch probably the crux with tricky route finding. Needle crack will live long in the memory.. Classic stuff!

with Robin Jeffery
Dave Douglas 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch felt fully E1! Rest was straightforward apart from the wet needle crack which was a fine lead in the wet by Pete. Just an amazing mountain experience.

peter.clarkson1 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

very good route with lots of variety. Was very glad of bomber protection on the needle crack as it was soaked!

with dave douglas
arose 10/Sep/14 AltLd

pretty wet in places. needle crack very wet!

Mackinclimb 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
Gudge 02/Sep/14 AltLd rpt

P2 (belayed at 40m below steep rib), P4, P7 & P9. Sent Neil the wrong way on P1 due to following the line given incorrectly in SMC 2005 Scottish Rock Climbs (SMC 2007 The Cairngorms gives the correct line & description for this pitch)! Bit damp on P1, P2 & P8 but still as good as first time I did it - what a brilliant route!

ned_85 02/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
twoplates 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with dave sharpe
malone 11/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with tom shaw
Steve Perry 12/Jun/14 AltLd dnf
Samuel Wainwright 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

The 2nd pitch is quite serious, absolutely stunning route though!

with Caelan
CaelanB 31/May/14 AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 29/May/14 AltLd rpt

A bit cold and greasy for first couple of pitches but improved after that. Led pitches I seconded last time around.

with Colin M
Hidden 29/May/14 AltLd O/S
Billy 20/May/14 Lead
with thomas horrocks
Hidden 16/May/14 AltLd O/S
Tim_Gomersall 16/May/14 AltLd
with McBain
chapmand ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 AltLd
PLM ??/2014 AltLd

Superb day.

with Liam
Hidden 20/Aug/13 AltLd
planetmarshall 04/Aug/13 AltLd

Alternate leads but James did the hard stuff. The needle pitch is sensational. A bit concerned about the amount of loose rock at the top, though. No one else to be seen on a windy but otherwise great day.

Hidden 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
bnewman 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led p.1,2,5,6. Pitch 2 is amazing, and the hard pitch of the route I think. Thin fingers crack was shorter and harder than expected. Johannes did well leading the needle pitch which seems very intimidating! Fantastic day out!

with Johannes
MonkeyDawson 14/Jul/13 AltLd
with Simon Smith
GaryK 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

An excellent outing. We left our sacks at the top of the crag and took only a hydration rucksack. Wires, cams and hexes all worked well. Some old pegs in-situ, most are very old & of dubious value.

with Roger Webb, Martin Hind
Lone Rider 14/Jul/13 AltLd

Nothing particularly hard but a good day out.Light rack and seconds coming up together speeded things up overtaking young Inverness team on Steeple allowed us to gloat a bit.

with Gary Kinsey, Roger Webb
s kennedy 12/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

first two pitches of steeple then the needle to the top, very good

with coel
Coel Hellier 12/Jul/13 AltLd
with Stu
Liam Ingram 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2, 5 and 6. Needle crack pitch is a beast. Brilliant route.

Roberttaylor 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led even pitches. The best mountain route I have climbed in Scotland. Last pitch one of the most interesting I have ever seen, possible to employ every technique imaginable on it. Somehow missed the crack for thin fingers pitch and accidentally climbed the corner of the Steeple before realising the mistake and abbing off it to finish the Needle as normal.

with Tom e
The Big Sender 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

stunning route, good intro to this beast of a crag.

JamieSparkes 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route, lead P1, 3+4 together then 7 and the needle crack. found the Crack the hardest work, pitch 4 was fantastic! article here:

brianrunner 07/Jul/13 AltLd

Back again to this brilliant route with Martina (last time was 2001). Perfect conditions, dry and no midgies. Fantastic!

with martina
pete87abs 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great route with great lads

with Graham, rob
Rachel Slater 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead the crux pitches and a few others. Nice, long route with good, varied climbing but no single pitch was amazing. A group caused some rockfall above us which was really scary!

Olli-C 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Felt propper ill. Eyes couldn't focus the rock, almost fell asleep belaying. Managed to lead P1, P5 (half of it), the crack for thin fingers (P6) and half of needle crack after Rach used up all the gear and crawled into the chimney and belayed while standing on a chockstone. Slept Well. Longest route so far.

Callum_Johnson 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! The last pitch is speleological lunacy! Wont forget that quickly.

with Uisdean, Stuart M
StuMsg 29/Jun/13 AltLd

Lead pitches 3, 6 and 9 (involved removing the helmet to fit through!)

Uisdean hawthorn 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
geoff.comley 13/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Great climb, I think mainly because of the ground it covers and the crag it is on. Last pitch is the memorable one for me, along with the small traverse under the roof.

with Simon
simon_D 13/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

awesome route!

with Geoff
RKirke 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Got a bit lost at the end and finished up the Steeple. It was still an amazing climb

Alex the Alex ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

So good! We (unintentionally) finished up the last two pitches of Steeple. In hindsight the crack for thin fingers didnt seem that thin... and felt pretty tough for 5a too... Will return for the first half of steeple end of needle combo.

with Rog
Natalie feather ?/Jun/13 AltLd
captain ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Murko Fuzz ??/2013 -
Josiemc ??/2013 -
French Erick 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

savaged by midges all the way... took 5 stars of the 4 stars route. Marred a classic. Despite seeing that some of the climbing was great, I mostly did not enjoy the day. Shame really.

SuperMike64 12/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
peter.herd 10/Aug/12 AltLd

Rory lead crux + thin fingers crack. I reverted my decision at the last minute and lead the Needle crack which is the most exposed and amazing mountain pitch i've done. Bluebird day and warm slabs on the plateau. Awesome.

with Rory Brown
Hidden 10/Aug/12 AltLd
Ginger McGrath 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

great day out despite being horrifically hungover!

with kevin mcgrath
Vicki M ?/Jun/12 AltLd
with Don, Mina
Matthew Robinson 28/Mar/12 Lead
with Sandy
PAJames 27/Mar/12 -


Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
Patzl ??/2012 -
Patzl ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
cuthill76 30/Jul/11 Lead

Led all pitches except the last. Needle crack pitch interesting after a long day.

Hidden 29/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
glenngordon 26/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with pamela millar
david wands 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

amazing route. this is why we go into the mountains!

tim newton 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

The needle crack was the highlight. Didn't know what was coming and was expecting a nice 5a bridge up the corner to find an offwidth corner chimney...really made the route. i think i'll always remember my surprise as i peered up at it. felt great at the top of it and threading the needle. one of the most enjoyable and varied climbs ive done.

t_stork 03/Jul/11 AltLd

Amazing, from the moment you leave the ground to the final squeeze through the chimney.

with Anna Wells
Anna_wells 03/Jul/11 AltLd
with Tom _ Stork
jonnie3430 25/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Every pitch is interesting. I thought the crack for thin fingers the crux though, (just in case you thought it was over after the two 5b pitches!) Top crack damp.

with Carol
Carol Goodall 25/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

started with the first pitch and threaded needle on the last

henwardian 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Got a bit off route on pitches 4 and 5. Also against all the evidence of chalk, rock wear, guidebook description and piton was still trying to enter the grove of stone bastion for far too long before remembering there are no 6a/b moves on Needle!

with Lasma
Lasma 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with henwardian
Hidden 03/Jun/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead
Ken Applegate 30/Apr/11 AltLd

Stayed beneath the Shelterstone having climbed the Steeple the previous day. Amazing route! Led P 1,3,5,6,8

with Dave Kirby
tallthinmonkey 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Rafa
newtonmore 18/Apr/11 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
newtonmore ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Ferdia
burto 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with adam russel
ferdia 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Andy
sebrider 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic, especialy the 8th pitch, one of my top pitchs climbed ever! 2nd pitch was my crux and felt bold.

with Sophie
sophiecb 25/Jul/10 2nd
with Seb
simon_D 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S

After initial route finding and gully crossing antics we re-gained the route for the thin fingers crack and so on...the Needle crack - majestic, bold, wide, deep, beautiful!

with Ben
Ben Sharp 23/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/10 AltLd
bnewman 05/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Lead pitch one in the rain. Abseiled off. Can't wait to get back on it.

with Johannes
tomdude 03/Jul/10 AltLd

totally awesome. top crack is amazing. led 3,4, and 7,8. strictly alternating pitches would seem a little unfair!

with rob
robertmichaeladams 03/Jul/10 AltLd


with Tom
Captain Solo 03/Jul/10 AltLd

A fantastic climb, we switched leads so we both got a 5a and a 5b pitch each. The needle crack is superb

with Peter
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Chad123 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Only did top section after doing the Spire but loved the pitches, great link up....

Hidden 25/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/10 Lead dnf
freudy_love 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Had done the first three pitches before, then bailed off onto "Postern", but the top six were clean onsight today. Second top "chimney crack" pitch was just awesome. Had to take off camelbak, helmet and slings across chest to wriggle through the "eye" at the top :D

with Stewart Munro
telemarker 26/Sep/09 AltLd β

Finally ticked it today after backing off it before, nackered. Great adventure.

with Paul F
martrin 20/Sep/09 Lead

i did the easy pitches, they were wet

with Ross Jervis
kevg 18/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Pete M
Tim Hamlet 10/Sep/09 AltLd

epic! benighted at the crux pitch.

twright180 ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S


Hidden 22/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd dnf
stuaart 08/Aug/09 AltLd dnf

Emily led P1, P3; Thom led P2, P4, P6, P7+8 (run together); I led P5. Rained every now and then throughout the climb. Backed off top pitch and abbed off in 3 abseils.

with Thom Simmons, Emily Ward
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd dnf
peterp ?/Aug/09 AltLd


with Pablo, Sully
Hidden 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/09 AltLd
groovypiper 25/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Pete (old)
Hidden 24/Jun/09 AltLd
Stewart B 23/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitches 2,4,6,8. Pitch 8 is absolutely brilliant!

with Karen McIntyre
Hidden 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
jored ?/Jun/09 Lead
with Chris W
adw07 31/May/09 AltLd
andymoin 31/May/09 AltLd O/S

An amazing route!!! The first pitch was a good warm up for what was to come... the first 5b pitch was the crux for me and was seriously scary, with hard moves and only sufficient gear, had to give myself a talking to several times. The second 5b involved some awesome thugy flakes interspersed with a delicate traverse and felt much easier. The crack for thin hands was great but shorter than I imagined. The needle crack was an amazing pitch one of the best I've climbed, with 7 pitches of exposure, absorbing corner/thin chimney climbing and great gear. Led pitches 2,4,8.

with Warren
jamestheyip 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Carlos
gaz.marshall 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Neil
Johann ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Alex Wheeldon
barney_edin ??/2009 AltLd
hwackerhage 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S

It started to rain heavily while I was stuck in the Needle offwidth. Climbing Teflon must be easier!

with Adam
Adam Henly 27/Jul/08 2nd
with Henning Wackenhage
michael83 05/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Mark, Stuart
Hidden 05/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
mulletcocktail2000 05/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

paul led even i led odd pitches. a classic in every way. the face steepens as you gain height. last two pitches proving very intimidating and exposed.

with paul
Paulww 05/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Ryan
s kennedy 05/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with mark mosgrove, michel mcghie
telemarker ?/Jul/08 AltLd dnf

Got to the top of pitch 3 and we were to tired to continue so back off and finished up Postern. Top couple of pitches look good though.

with Paul F
freudy_love ?/Jul/08 AltLd dnf
with Stewart Munro
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead
James Humble 21/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

First pitch has hard move for 4b over the overlap, and top chimney crack is intimadating but very well protected and requires full body contact and not soo bad once you are in it. Otherwise nice and never too hard

with Tom
Paz 07/Jun/08 AltLd dnf

Lead P1 and P2 on one rope to get the other back.

with SC
Neil Adams 01/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route!

with Christian L
Bruce Kerr 01/Jun/08 Lead
with Ivor McCourt
Hidden 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
RobScotland 07/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Alternating leads with Charlie leading the more difficult pitches. An enjoyable route - some of the pitches not given a technical grade in the current SMC guidebook do deserve a technical grade. Descend by Forefinger Gully not Castle Gates Gully (which is loose and unpleasant).

with Charlie Hill
jazzyjackson 06/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

What a mission, bivvied in Scheachta the night before. Ally led first pitch and we alt lead all the way to the weary end. Back to the car for midnight and reception by mountain rescue after failure to call home due to lack of signal in Avon Basin.

with Ally
Hidden 06/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
sparkass ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
dave o 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Julia H
Hidden 26/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Rich Mayfield 05/Aug/07 AltLd
Ally Baba 02/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Big classic route. Bloody cold day!

with Gav Swinton
Hidden ?/Jun/07 AltLd
mshorter ??/2007 AltLd
with dunc
Hidden 26/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 05/Aug/06 AltLd
Ross Barnes 05/Aug/06 AltLd

Broke leg on last pitch. Climbed out after fall then had a 3.5h walkout. Thankfully a bottle of Talisker eased the pain!!

with Andy I
Hidden 26/Jul/06 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
sea_lene ??/2006 AltLd O/S

I seconded the harder pitches with rucksack on. #chuffed

akhughes ??/2005 AltLd
with Steptoe
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
Dangerous Dave 06/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/04 AltLd
Brian McC ??/2004 -
with Brian Duthie
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
Smelly Fox 25/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with Luisa Giles
charlesmfrench 17/Sep/02 AltLd O/S


with James Menzies
Gudge ??/2002 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd
brianrunner ?/Jun/01 -

climbed 3 times now and one of my favourite routes in britain. The needle crack at the top is wonderful and fairly easy. I think this is low in the grade E1 and a must do!

with martina
John Pickles 01/Jun/00 AltLd O/S
with Elliot Palmer
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
plain kitten ??/1999 -
Duncan I ?/Jun/98 AltLd

I got the crack for thin fingers. Toby threaded the Needle. Note to self - sandbag someone else with the crack next time.

with Toby Hulf
Hidden 23/Jul/97 AltLd
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
nick everett ?/Jul/96 AltLd

Perfection - especially for a team of 'different' abilities! Leading all the odd pitches meant nothing harder than 4b. P2 definitely very solid E1, needs confidence and the right line... P4 easier but still needed a good sunbathe on the fine ledge at end of P5 to settle down. Loved P7 forging upward to the chimney. V grateful Rob showed how to bridge the chimney. To Rob's disgust, threading the eye just didn't appeal so led the wall alongside - will have to go back. Mr T & Hewie followed us: Rich's classic quote arriving chastened at the top - "I need to go back to climbing Severes with girls".

with Rob
Bruce Kerr 23/Jun/96 AltLd
with Alan Smith
uphillnow 23/Jun/95 AltLd

Climbed in a period of excellant weather. Supurb.

with Mark Gray
pingora 22/Jun/95 AltLd rpt
with Bruce G
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd
Hidden ??/1994 AltLd
AC1 ??/1994 -
with Luc Chereaux
pingora 13/Jun/93 AltLd
with Jaz H, Colley
Budge ??/1992 AltLd O/S
with Dave Wharton
Hidden 04/Aug/91 AltLd O/S
kp64zl ?/Aug/91 AltLd
michael burrows 20/May/90 AltLd O/S
with brian jones
Hidden ?/May/90 -
pingora 17/Jun/89 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd
Mike Owen 02/Jul/87 -
with Murray Hamilton, Pete Whillance
stuart100 ?/Jun/87 2nd O/S
with Pete Goodwin
graham lawrie ??/1987 -
Hammy 21/Jun/86 AltLd
with Rob Lawson
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1985 -
TonyF 15/Jul/84 AltLd O/S
with Martin Lancaster
Hamish Leslie ??/1984 Lead O/S

so good

with Samson
Bob 27/Aug/83 AltLd O/S
with M. Lynch
Bruce Kerr 01/Aug/81 Lead
with Lindsay Rennie
Hidden ??/1980 -
neil3965 ?/Aug/79 AltLd
with Bill McCrae
Dave Musgrove 01/Jun/79 AltLd

Probably the best mountaineering day out I've had in British hills.

with Jim Worthington
redjerry ?/Sep/78 AltLd O/S
with Jim Melrose
Chris Craggs ??/1975 AltLd
with Doug
Hidden 22/May/71 AltLd
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Votes cast 56
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