Moray > Shelterstone Crag >
 
The Needle (Summer)*** E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
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The Needle Pitch 4 Variation (Summer) >>
260m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Robin Smith Legacy, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 175 logbooks, and on 129 wishlists.

chapmand - 2014

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Aug/13

Alternate leads but James did the hard stuff. The needle pitch is sensational. A bit concerned about the amount of loose rock at the top, though. No one else to be seen on a windy but otherwise great day.
planetmarshall - AltLd - 04/Aug/13 with James Jackson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/13

Led p.1,2,5,6. Pitch 2 is amazing, and the hard pitch of the route I think. Thin fingers crack was shorter and harder than expected. Johannes did well leading the needle pitch which seems very intimidating! Fantastic day out!
bnewman - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Johannes

MonkeyDawson - AltLd - 14/Jul/13 with Simon Smith

An excellent outing. We left our sacks at the top of the crag and took only a hydration rucksack. Wires, cams and hexes all worked well. Some old pegs in-situ, most are very old & of dubious value.
GaryK - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Roger Webb, Martin Hind

Nothing particularly hard but a good day out.Light rack and seconds coming up together speeded things up overtaking young Inverness team on Steeple allowed us to gloat a bit.
Lone Rider - AltLd - 14/Jul/13 with Gary Kinsey, Roger Webb

first two pitches of steeple then the needle to the top, very good
s kennedy - AltLd rpt - 12/Jul/13 with coel

Coel Hellier - AltLd - 12/Jul/13 with Stu

Led P2, 5 and 6. Needle crack pitch is a beast. Brilliant route.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Jamie Sparkes

Led even pitches. The best mountain route I have climbed in Scotland. Last pitch one of the most interesting I have ever seen, possible to employ every technique imaginable on it. Somehow missed the crack for thin fingers pitch and accidentally climbed the corner of the Steeple before realising the mistake and abbing off it to finish the Needle as normal.
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Tom e

stunning route, good intro to this beast of a crag.
The Big Sender - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with robert taylor

Fantastic route, lead P1, 3+4 together then 7 and the needle crack. found the Crack the hardest work, pitch 4 was fantastic! article here: http://bit.ly/14oPaSJ
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Liam Ingram

Back again to this brilliant route with Martina (last time was 2001). Perfect conditions, dry and no midgies. Fantastic!
brianrunner - AltLd - 07/Jul/13 with martina

Great route with great lads
pete87abs - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Graham, rob

Lead the crux pitches and a few others. Nice, long route with good, varied climbing but no single pitch was amazing. A group caused some rockfall above us which was really scary!
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Olli Crudge

Felt propper ill. Eyes couldn't focus the rock, almost fell asleep belaying. Managed to lead P1, P5 (half of it), the crack for thin fingers (P6) and half of needle crack after Rach used up all the gear and crawled into the chimney and belayed while standing on a chockstone. Slept Well. Longest route so far.
Olli-C - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Rachel Slater

Brilliant! The last pitch is speleological lunacy! Wont forget that quickly.
Callum_Johnson - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Uisdean, Stuart M

Lead pitches 3, 6 and 9 (involved removing the helmet to fit through!)
StuMsg - AltLd - 29/Jun/13 with Uisdean H, Callum J

Great climb, I think mainly because of the ground it covers and the crag it is on. Last pitch is the memorable one for me, along with the small traverse under the roof.
geoff.comley - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/13 with Simon

awesome route!
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/13 with Geoff

Got a bit lost at the end and finished up the Steeple. It was still an amazing climb
Roger Kirke - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

Alex the Alex - AltLd O/S - Jun/13

captain - 2013

captain - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Murko Fuzz - 2013

Josiemc - 2013

savaged by midges all the way... took 5 stars of the 4 stars route. Marred a classic. Despite seeing that some of the climbing was great, I mostly did not enjoy the day. Shame really.
French Erick - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Dave Kerr, Karl Atherton, Dave Kerr

SuperMike64 - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12

Rory lead crux + thin fingers crack. I reverted my decision at the last minute and lead the Needle crack which is the most exposed and amazing mountain pitch i've done. Bluebird day and warm slabs on the plateau. Awesome.
peter.herd - AltLd - 10/Aug/12 with Rory Brown

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Aug/12

great day out despite being horrifically hungover!
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with kevin mcgrath

Vicki M - AltLd - Jun/12 with Don, Mina

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 28/Mar/12 with Sandy

Amazing! http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/27-03-12-needle-shelterstone-cairngorms.html
PAJames - 27/Mar/12

Hidden - Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

JonG - 2012

Patzl - 2012

Patzl - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Led all pitches except the last. Needle crack pitch interesting after a long day.
cuthill76 - Lead - 30/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Jul/11

glenngordon - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with pamela millar

amazing route. this is why we go into the mountains!
david wands - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with tim newton

brilliant and varied climbing. pitch 2 probably the crux. thought the second 5b pitch soft. one awkward move on the crack for thin fingers. the needle crack was the highlight though. didn't know what was coming and was expecting a nice 5a bridge up the corner to find an offwidth corner chimney...really made the route. i think i'll always remember my surprise as i peered up at it. felt great at the top of it and threading the needle. one of the most enjoyable and varied climbs ive done.
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with david wands

Amazing, from the moment you leave the ground to the final squeeze through the chimney.
t_stork - AltLd - 03/Jul/11 with Anna Wells

Anna_wells - AltLd - 03/Jul/11 with Tom _ Stork

Awesome! Every pitch is interesting. I thought the crack for thin fingers the crux though, (just in case you thought it was over after the two 5b pitches!) Top crack damp.
jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with Carol

started with the first pitch and threaded needle on the last
Carol Goodall - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with Jonnie Williams

Got a bit off route on pitches 4 and 5. Also against all the evidence of chalk, rock wear, guidebook description and piton was still trying to enter the grove of stone bastion for far too long before remembering there are no 6a/b moves on Needle!
henwardian - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Lasma

Lasma - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with henwardian

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 03/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - Jun/11

Stayed beneath the Shelterstone having climbed the Steeple the previous day. Amazing route! Led P 1,3,5,6,8
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 30/Apr/11 with Dave Kirby

tallthinmonkey - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Rafa

newtonmore - 18/Apr/11

Hidden - 2011

newtonmore - AltLd - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10

Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Ferdia

burto - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with adam russel

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Andy

Fantastic, especialy the 8th pitch, one of my top pitchs climbed ever! 2nd pitch was my crux and felt bold.
sebrider - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Sophie

sophiecb - 2nd - 25/Jul/10 with Seb

After initial route finding and gully crossing antics we re-gained the route for the thin fingers crack and so on...the Needle crack - majestic, bold, wide, deep, beautiful!
simon_D - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Ben

Ben Sharp - 2nd - 23/Jul/10 with Simon D (Edinburgh)

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/10

Lead pitch one in the rain. Abseiled off. Can't wait to get back on it.
bnewman - Lead dnf - 05/Jul/10 with Johannes

totally awesome. top crack is amazing. led 3,4, and 7,8. strictly alternating pitches would seem a little unfair!
tomdude - AltLd - 03/Jul/10 with rob

BOOM!
robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 03/Jul/10 with Tom

A fantastic climb, we switched leads so we both got a 5a and a 5b pitch each. The needle crack is superb
Captain Solo - AltLd - 03/Jul/10 with Peter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Only did top section after doing the Spire but loved the pitches, great link up....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Jun/10

Had done the first three pitches before, then bailed off onto "Postern", but the top six were clean onsight today. Second top "chimney crack" pitch was just awesome. Had to take off camelbak, helmet and slings across chest to wriggle through the "eye" at the top :D
freudy_love - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Stewart Munro

Finally ticked it today after backing off it before, nackered. Great adventure.
telemarker - AltLd β - 26/Sep/09 with Paul F

kevg - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/09 with Pete M

epic! benighted at the crux pitch.
Tim Hamlet - AltLd - 10/Sep/09

awesome!
twright180 - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 08/Aug/09

Emily led P1, P3; Thom led P2, P4, P6, P7+8 (run together); I led P5. Rained every now and then throughout the climb. Backed off top pitch and abbed off in 3 abseils.
stuaart - AltLd dnf - 08/Aug/09 with Thom Simmons, Emily Ward

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 08/Aug/09

intense
peterp - AltLd - Aug/09 with Pablo, Sully

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jun/09

groovypiper - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/09 with Pete (old)

Lead Pitches 2,4,6,8. Pitch 8 is absolutely brilliant!
Stewart B - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/09 with Karen McIntyre

Great route with varied, exciting climbing. I led the odd numbered pitches. The chimney/corner pitch (P8) was wet and slimy inside the chimney, but its still a fantastic pitch if you can bridge/layback the chimney rather than resorting to traditional chimney techniques.
Chris wilson - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09 with John F

jored - Lead - Jun/09 with Chris W

adw07 - AltLd - 31/May/09 with Andy Main

An amazing route!!! The first pitch was a good warm up for what was to come... the first 5b pitch was the crux for me and was seriously scary, with hard moves and only sufficient gear, had to give myself a talking to several times. The second 5b involved some awesome thugy flakes interspersed with a delicate traverse and felt much easier. The crack for thin hands was great but shorter than I imagined. The needle crack was an amazing pitch one of the best I've climbed, with 7 pitches of exposure, absorbing corner/thin chimney climbing and great gear. Led pitches 2,4,8.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Warren

jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Carlos

gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - 24/May/09 with Neil

Johann - AltLd O/S - May/09 with Alex Wheeldon

barney_edin - AltLd - 2009

It started to rain heavily while I was stuck in the Needle offwidth. Climbing Teflon must be easier!
hwackerhage - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/08 with Adam

Adam Henly - 2nd - 27/Jul/08 with Henning Wackenhage

michael83 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/08 with Mark, Stuart

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/08

paul led even i led odd pitches. a classic in every way. the face steepens as you gain height. last two pitches proving very intimidating and exposed.
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/08 with paul

Paulww - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/08 with Ryan

s kennedy - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/08 with mark mosgrove, michel mcghie

Got to the top of pitch 3 and we were to tired to continue so back off and finished up Postern. Top couple of pitches look good though.
telemarker - AltLd dnf - Jul/08 with Paul F

freudy_love - AltLd dnf - Jul/08 with Stewart Munro

First pitch has hard move for 4b over the overlap, and top chimney crack is intimadating but very well protected and requires full body contact and not soo bad once you are in it. Otherwise nice and never too hard
James Humble - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/08 with Tom

Lead P1 and P2 on one rope to get the other back.
Paz - AltLd dnf - 07/Jun/08 with SC

Brilliant route!
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/08 with Christian L

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 01/Jun/08 with Ivor McCourt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Alternating leads with Charlie leading the more difficult pitches. An enjoyable route - some of the pitches not given a technical grade in the current SMC guidebook do deserve a technical grade. Descend by Forefinger Gully not Castle Gates Gully (which is loose and unpleasant).
RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Charlie Hill

What a mission, bivvied in Scheachta the night before. Ally led first pitch and we alt lead all the way to the weary end. Back to the car for midnight and reception by mountain rescue after failure to call home due to lack of signal in Avon Basin.
jazzyjackson - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/07 with Ally

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/07

sparkass - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with Mike Shorter

dave o - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Julia H

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 05/Aug/07 with Mark Stevenson

Big classic route. Bloody cold day!
Ally Baba - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Gav Swinton

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/07

mshorter - AltLd - 2007 with dunc

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/06

andyinglis - AltLd - 05/Aug/06 with ross barnes

Broke leg on last pitch. Climbed out after fall then had a 3.5h walkout. Thankfully a bottle of Talisker eased the pain!!
Ross Barnes - AltLd - 05/Aug/06 with Andy I

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/06

akhughes - AltLd - 2005 with Steptoe

Hidden - AltLd - 2005

Dangerous Dave - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/04 with Wheatbag

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jun/04

Brian McC - 2004 with Brian Duthie

Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/03 with Luisa Giles

L,L,2,L,L,L,L,L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/02 with James Menzies

Gudge - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Gareth Hughes

climbed 3 times now and one of my favourite routes in britain. The needle crack at the top is wonderful and fairly easy. I think this is low in the grade E1 and a must do!
brianrunner - Jun/01 with martina

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/00 with Elliot Palmer

graeme gatherer - 2000

I got the crack for thin fingers. Toby threaded the Needle. Note to self - sandbag someone else with the crack next time.
Duncan I - AltLd - Jun/98 with Toby Hulf

andybrown114 - AltLd - 23/Jul/97 with Stewart Leitch

phardman - 20/Jul/97

Perfection - especially for a team of 'different' abilities! Leading all the odd pitches meant nothing harder than 4b. P2 definitely very solid E1, needs confidence and the right line... P4 easier but still needed a good sunbathe on the fine ledge at end of P5 to settle down. Loved P7 forging upward to the chimney. V grateful Rob showed how to bridge the chimney. To Rob's disgust, threading the eye just didn't appeal so led the wall alongside - will have to go back. Mr T & Hewie followed us: Rich's classic quote arriving chastened at the top - "I need to go back to climbing Severes with girls".
nick everett - AltLd - Jul/96 with Rob

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 23/Jun/96 with Alan Smith

Climbed in a period of excellant weather. Supurb.
David Smith - AltLd - 23/Jun/95

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/94

Hidden - AltLd - 1994

Budge - AltLd O/S - 1992 with Dave Wharton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/91

kp64zl - AltLd - Aug/91

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 20/May/90 with brian jones

Mike Owen - 02/Jul/87 with Murray Hamilton, Pete Whillance

stuart100 - 2nd O/S - Jun/87 with Pete Goodwin

graham lawrie - 1987

Hammy - AltLd - 21/Jun/86 with Rob Lawson

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - 1985

Bob - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/83 with M. Lynch

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 01/Aug/81 with Lindsay Rennie

neil3965 - AltLd - Aug/79 with Bill McCrae

Probably the best mountaineering day out I've had in British hills.
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 01/Jun/79 with Jim Worthington

redjerry - AltLd O/S - Sep/78 with Jim Melrose

Chris Craggs - AltLd - 1975 with Doug

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Voting
Total votes cast 139
hard E20 of 47
E20 of 47
easy E20 of 47
hard E116 of 47
E128 of 47
easy E13 of 47
hard HVS0 of 47
HVS0 of 47
easy HVS0 of 47
hard 5c0 of 46
5c0 of 46
easy 5c0 of 46
hard 5b3 of 46
5b41 of 46
easy 5b2 of 46
hard 5a0 of 46
5a0 of 46
easy 5a0 of 46
3 Stars45 of 46
2 Stars0 of 46
1 Star1 of 46
0 Stars0 of 46
Bag of .....0 of 46
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Style of ascent

Lead15 of 175 (8.6%)
Followed6 of 175 (3.4%)
Alt Leads125 of 175 (71.4%)
Unknown29 of 175 (16.6%)

'Climbed'85 of 175 (48.6%)
clean O/S78 of 175 (44.6%)
clean β1 of 175 (0.6%)
clean rpt3 of 175 (1.7%)
dnf8 of 175 (4.6%)