|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
P1 - start left of a black streak of mossy stuff and climb a steep wall. Work your way right and up to belay under the 1st roof. P2- climb the roof at around 4c/5a then go up a slab to the 2nd roof. So i Climbed the loose steep traversing line over the roof. Guide book said belay on the lip - no chance nothing there - so i climbed straight up to the glacis and belayed there, 2 pitches. Not a bad climb but soft E1, loose crux, and wierd route descriptions detract.
Crap route, crap route description, crap topo. Ended up doing a 30m traverse pitch below the big roofs to get back on line. Worst route I've done on the island.
|Neil Adams||02/Jun/12||AltLd O/S||
The topo in the new SMC guide is wrong - the 'diagonal traverse' at the end of P1 takes you about 20m further right at the break through the overlaps (very bold!). Not a great route.
Be careful. Gary Latter and SMC have these climbs about 20m apart. The 2nd pitch of the Gary Latter version, immediately to the left of Integrity is appalling; loose, wet, filthy and nowhere near 4b. At least 5a, though more like 5b as you are putting most weight on your arms to prevent breaking footholds.... There is no belay on the lip either.
Tom took p1. Second pitch described as 4b. Don't know if I missed something but I nearly **** myself trying to get through the roof (big traverse on jugs, strenuous putting gear in, strenuous exiting roof on blind jugs, not really 4b). Not helped by the rain either. One of those 'retrospectively amazing' climbs.